recently removed the starbord shaft cover on a Yamaha F 225 for oil change. Two things, there wasnt a washer on drain plug? should ther be one? and the front top screw for the shaft cover would no longer thread in? Its like the screw is now too short? had to leave it out. What could have happened?
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ibiggee, there should have been a crush washer on the drain screw/bolt (called a gasket in Yamaland) sometimes they remain on the pan itself and disappear in the bucket of drained oil. The cover has different length hex screws so you may have put one in the wrong hole or maybe the cover isn't seated correctly. Either way if you are a salt water guy clean off the salt and grease them for the future.
later,
Gunz
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technically ,yes there is supposed to be a drain plug washer.
most did not have one when new.
you have most likely stripped out the hole.
it can be heli-coiled but you have to shorten the standard coil.
that's why I personally NEVER use the drain plug.
I simply suck it out the dipstick tube as designed.
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Ok, thanks
Originally posted by gunz@pc View Postibiggee, there should have been a crush washer on the drain screw/bolt (called a gasket in Yamaland) sometimes they remain on the pan itself and disappear in the bucket of drained oil. The cover has different length hex screws so you may have put one in the wrong hole or maybe the cover isn't seated correctly. Either way if you are a salt water guy clean off the salt and grease them for the future.
later,
Gunz
I usually suck out oil, wanted to full drain it just to assure I has any bottom sludge out. Did not strip anything on drain plug, just greased it up and put it back..
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all the cowl screws with the exception of the fwd lowest of the two double stacked with nuts, are the same length.
get the heli coils ready.
goes back to why I wont remove the covers nor the drain plug unless absolutely mandatory.
they designed it to be sucked out the dipstick tube.
either by using the hose threaded fitting or simply a hose around the tube.
I heli-coil several a year,not of my own doing though.
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Originally posted by rodbolt17 View Postall the cowl screws with the exception of the fwd lowest of the two double stacked with nuts, are the same length.
get the heli coils ready.
goes back to why I wont remove the covers nor the drain plug unless absolutely mandatory.
they designed it to be sucked out the dipstick tube.
either by using the hose threaded fitting or simply a hose around the tube.
I heli-coil several a year,not of my own doing though.
Some also are concerned about not getting all of the oil out. Tests have proven that possibly no more than an ounce of oil remains in the oil pan after it has been sucked out using the vacuum extraction method.
The oil can be sucked out of the sump in less time than it takes to remove one of the side cowlings in the V6 models. Less time, less risk, just as effective. Would not surprise me one day to see that there is no oil drain plug installed in the oil pan.
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Kind of like my 2014 F150 ford PU with 5 L V8 , no dipstick or place for average Joe to check or even add any automatic trans fluid any more.
Just take it back to dealer if problems show up
I do like the way things are heading
I have hated the no drain plugs on automatic transmissions in autos for many years, but I never had anything to suck the fluid out though dipstick back in my auto mechanics daysLast edited by 99yam40; 01-01-2015, 07:36 PM.
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Originally posted by ibiggee@aol.com View PostI ordered the drain plug washer Pt # 90430-14m09. Does not look like a crutch washer but may be alum? Hope its right? Looks narrow for such a wide flat surface.
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I just snug mine, its not going anywhere...
As noted above, just make sure the old one isn't still stuck to the block.Scott
1997 Angler 204, Center Console powered by a 2006 Yamaha F150TXR
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Originally posted by rodbolt17 View PostSNUG???????
SNUGGGGGGGG
do you realize there is a TORQUE spec??????>??
20 foot lbs (for yours and mine F150).......
30 ft lbs for the exact same bolt in an aluminum block in a Yamaha motorcycle engine with the same sized thread pitch/width.. WTH????Last edited by TownsendsFJR1300; 01-01-2015, 08:42 PM.Scott
1997 Angler 204, Center Console powered by a 2006 Yamaha F150TXR
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I like to change my drain plug while hanging upside down over the cowling while using a mirror over my shoulder.
Righty remains tighty. I think.
Oh, torque spec for the drain plug is 19 lb-ft. 27 N-m for those that are so inclined. Slightly more than the torque for a spark plug. Not a lot.
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19ftlbs, may explain why I get a few a year that brought the pan threads out when removed.
its funny the parts diagram lists a drain washer.
yet most the f200,f225,f250 and f300-350 midsections I have had apart had none from the factory.
yes to do the EX stack on the f200-f250 or after a catastrophic failure, the midsection must be disassembled.
to withdraw the stack from the outer casing requires the drain plug to be removed.
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Originally posted by rodbolt17 View Post19ftlbs, may explain why I get a few a year that brought the pan threads out when removed.
its funny the parts diagram lists a drain washer.
yet most the f200,f225,f250 and f300-350 midsections I have had apart had none from the factory.
yes to do the EX stack on the f200-f250 or after a catastrophic failure, the midsection must be disassembled.
to withdraw the stack from the outer casing requires the drain plug to be removed.
From the Yamaha PDF SHOP manual;
Scott
1997 Angler 204, Center Console powered by a 2006 Yamaha F150TXR
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