2003 90TLRB - Need Help

[TownsendsFJR1300]

I replaced the tank and everything upstream of the engine connector myself for less. Using a $26 electric fuel pump, I now pump all fuel from the boat to the truck and leave the tank open and upside down when putting the boat away after the trip. And I mean after that trip, not the season. This may be a bit over the top, but for me, no fuel means no fuel to go bad and I haven't had issue since.

Just a suggestion.

You may want to still run a stabilizer only because there's still a little of fuel in the carb float bowls that can still cause varnishing up even if run dry..

Unless you pull the bowl drain bolts, the varnish can still still accumulate.. Its cheap insurance and a whole cheaper/easier than a carb cleaning.

I've found "Gas Shok" to work extremly well as well as K100. I've personally had issues with Stabil allowing varnish to build up in as quickly as a month..

GAS SHOK - Water Absorber and Fuel Stabilizer - 32 oz [GAS SHOK 32 oz] - $39.95 : CoastUS, Marine Electronics for the Serious Boater to the Casual Fisherman

[99yam40]

I have found that the little bit of fuel left in the bowls, lines, and pump ends up evaporating a lot quicker when trying to drain or use it up , That leaves dried up residue that will build up and plug things up when it turns loose.
I leave mine full and just run it often so it does not dry up and have not had any problems for many years.

Not only does running a multi carb motor till it dies not get all of the fuel out of the bowls due to the location of the jets,but it also runs some of the cylinders lean without fuel and oil (on 2 strokes)as they never run out at the same time. bottom carbs always have the most fuel left once it dies.

To the original poster I have no idea why the different cylinders read different RPM while testing like that.
I did notice on my C40 that I had to turn the clip around on my induction timing light so the arrow pointed away from the spark plug for the timing light to function properly. Has something to do with the direction of the current flow through pickup and plug wire.
But see no reason that would have affected your RPM reading on the different plug wires

[throrope]

Unless you pull the bowl drain bolts, the varnish can still still accumulate.. Its cheap insurance and a whole cheaper/easier than a carb cleaning.

Good pick-up! Yes, I drain the bowls and after turning off a drain bolt at the dock, I keep spares. They're hollow brass and break easy at the drain holes.

The drains are also a easy place to check for crud. If you find it on the bolt, likely throughout.

I used to run it dry, but stopped after being rightfully chastised here.

[newboater]

#3 on rodbolt17's original reply.

Synced carbs and they were running fine one day, then coughing and spitting the next. Finally pulled and cleaned them.

Found a clogged #42 jet and some very small debris in the bottom of the float bowl on one of the carbs. Waiting for new o-rings for the Prime Starters on carbs 1 and 3. Hope to have them by Friday.

Will set up, sync carbs, and run on a test tank with non-ethanol gas. Will let you know how it turns out.

Thanks for everyone's help, especially TownsendsFJR1300. Checked out your helmet locks. Pretty cool stuff. Will call when I know the outcome.