As you noted, you don't have to ull the head. Now if your re-ringing, obviously a hone is necessary(and head removal). If using the same rings, etc, I'd probably leave the head on.
As posted, assemble the pistons/ rotational assembly. Set #1 piston at TDC, then the cam's lining up all the marks.
Just go slow. Once all aligned, belt tensioned, SLOWLY spin the engine over BY HAND(spark plugs out) just to mark sure there is no interference and all your marks re-align once a complete cycle (two rotations) are completed..
If there's any doubt, you can also loosen the cam adjusters (all valves now seated), and re-adjust them last. I would check the valve clearance #'s before adjusting just for S&G's.
As posted, assemble the pistons/ rotational assembly. Set #1 piston at TDC, then the cam's lining up all the marks.
Just go slow. Once all aligned, belt tensioned, SLOWLY spin the engine over BY HAND(spark plugs out) just to mark sure there is no interference and all your marks re-align once a complete cycle (two rotations) are completed..
If there's any doubt, you can also loosen the cam adjusters (all valves now seated), and re-adjust them last. I would check the valve clearance #'s before adjusting just for S&G's.
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