Yamaha F25 rough start

[gergobob]

Hi,
I have a 2017 Yamaha F25 tiller pull start that I bought with a boat last fall and have not used it yet. This is my first boat. This is the first year of the redesigned engine with EFI. It started and ran fine at the original owners house; nice slow idle. He ran it for 10 or 20 seconds with the hose attached to the flush port, which I don't think Yamaha recommends. He said it would be fine to run for a short time. Owner claimed less than 5 hour use which was apparent as the engine looks new. He bought it as a leftover in 2018.
I did not fog the engine and stored it off the motor in my house.
For my first start today I put a clean garbage can under the engine and filled with water. It started on the third pull and ran rough(varying rpms) and fast, so I shut it off. I'm not 100% sure the throttle was at idle or not. I should have checked that before starting. It ran for 5 seconds before I quickly shut it off. Exhaust a little smokey.

Afterward, the pull start cord was stuck half way out and wouldn't pull or retract, so I took the cowling and pull start cover off. Turns out the engine turns fine by hand via the ?flywheel? on top of the engine and I feel compression so that's good.
See the photo. I had already taken the pull cord out before taking the pictures, but it was all wrapped up/tangled in the white thing in the center, which I'm positive it's not supposed to be there. The cord broke too. The end of the cord is plastic-y like it was burned/broke via friction from the cord being wedged against the spinning spool that the cord is supposed to stay in. There is 4 inches of cord in the pull start cover. I believe the spool was probably spinning because the cord was out of the spool and stuck between the white thing in the center and the flywheel. I believe the cord got out of the spool because I let go of the cord so quickly when it started, and I think the Yamaha manual says to let the cord retract slowly or something to that effect.

Anyone have any idea of what to do next? I have the spare pull cord that came with the engine but don't want to try starting before consulting others. The gas in the tank is new but it ran for 5 seconds so obviously the gas within the engines fuel system is still old.


Thanks
Fullsize picture links:
https://i.imgur.com/HReZhrL.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/FmJ3W2K.jpg

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Being a 4 stroke you have a crankcase with engine oil in it.

If layed down/stored incorrectly, engine oil can bypass the rings, get into the combustion chamber and it'll smoke. It'd run rough til the oil is burned up.
It's also possible to foul a spark plug so you may want to check, replace those.



Re the pull starter assembly. GENERALLY this is the easiest way to repair.
-Remove the remainder of the broke cord.

-Turn the inner "spool" in the direction the pull starter would pull it. (Counter Clockwise per your pic)

-Once the inner spring has tension on it, simply feed the new line BACK thru outside of the starter housing, thru the appropriate holes/openings and into the spool.

-Tie off with a knot(as you have showing) the new line in the "spool".

-Release the "spool" gently, it should retract and pull the new cord back in. Obviously, make sure the new cord has a handle on the end or you get to do a "do over".

*Note, you'll see(in your pic) a small "cut out" in the outer, black reel. If you need more re-coil power(didn't wind the inner part enough), you can place the new rope in that slot, and spin it around (with resistance) another turn. That'll put a little more tension in the return spring and retract harder..

It's pretty much a big, lawn mower pull starter..

.
.Re the old fuel. The US version shows a carb for that motor.
If fuel injected, you should find the VST, (like a small carb that holds fuel). They'll be drain screw on the bottom of it with likely a clear hose attached to it. Loosen that and drain the old fuel out of it. Also prime the primer bulb (with new fuel) and flush the old out and new fuel in...


.

[kdgrills]

Attached are the relevant service manual pages for the manual starter.

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Attached are the relevant service manual pages for the manual starter.

Great pic's but Yamaha has you partially disassembling the unit when that's not needed.

Pic's should help thou.

[gergobob]

Thanks to both of you, it's a big help. I looked at the pull start again and replacing the cord doesn't seem too bad.
Also, the motor runs correctly now! It started right up today pulling via the flywheel. No smoke.
I think the problem was that I had the throttle turned up and then the cord got stuck between the flywheel and pull start assembly when it retracted, maybe because I retracted it too quickly.
I stored the engine upright but maybe it smoked the first start because my first time tilting the motor(to get the trash can under it) I had it up a lot trying to figure out how to make it lock in the upright position.

Edit:Regarding the efi, the certificate of origin says the motor only weighs 130lbs and there is an awful lot of wiring around the motor so I think it must be the newer lighter engine with efi.

[kdgrills]

Sounds like it's EFI. There should be two tags on the port side of the clamp bracket. One with the model / serial number & one with the month/ year of manufacture.

Glad it's running good for you. I have the same motor
(with electric start), couldn't be happier with it.

[John Merlino]

So my understanding is the 25 hp idels rough but once you increase the RPMs everything is fine