Trim and Tilt on 2008 Yamaha 300 HPDI

[boscoe99]

Red multimeter lead on the power input to the relay assembly. Black multimeter lead on the relay ground.

Should read battery voltage.

Now with the up or down button pressed, what is the voltage?

Now move the red multimeter lead to the blue wire terminal. Press the up button. What is the voltage? Do the same for the green wire terminal.

[Txbass12]

12.8 volts red to black on the relay. 12.7 volts blue and green when trim button is activated.

[DennisG01]

Just something to think about here... relays can still "click", yet not be making enough contact to pass the required amperage needed to run the motor. If you bypassed the relay successfully, which I think I read that you did, and you are getting switching power (clicking), then it seems that that you have isolated the issue to the relay, itself. This is actually not all that uncommon. The contacts on the inside get worn/corroded so they don't make full contact.

[Txbass12]

I've replaced the relay already and it didn't solve the problem. The relay on the motor right now has been tested on another outboard and it worked fine. When installed back on mine its back to the clicking.

[boscoe99]

We know.

Relays can click and not work. As appears to be the situation with your relay.

It is not about voltage. It is about power.

[99yam40]

I am thinking that if the old and new relay do not work on the OPs motor, but they both work on a different motor, and the OP can jump around the relay to get the T&T motor to operate on a repetitive time frame( not just once) then this is a mystery for sure .
now if jumping it does not make the T&T motor run every time it is tried then I say a low battery , bad battery, bad battery connection, bad spot on motor armature, or brushes could be a problem,

[boscoe99]

I am thinking that it is a power supply issue. Or the lack thereof. Including the ground since it works as a system.

[99yam40]

Maybe running a good size wire as a jumper from the battery + to the relay to see if that helps, and then try to the neg.
try to eliminate parts of the system one at a time till you find what the problem is.

[DennisG01]

OK, if it worked on another motor, then the relay (typically the most likely culprit) is good. The same premise holds true... not enough amperage being allowed to pass through. The next step is to check connections and wires to see where the fault is (and whether it's on the supply or load side)... loose connections... dirty connections... broken wires at the connectors... corroded wires underneath the sheathing... etc. As mentioned, using a known good wire for jumping is an easy testing method. Voltage drop is another one. Somewhere, there is a power restriction - process of elimination is your friend. Eliminating load or supply side is the first step as that cuts your culprits in half.

[Txbass12]

Good tip on running jumpers directly from the battery to the relay. I will give that a try. The battery in the boat right now is new this year. To eliminate a possible battery issue I did swap out batteries earlier with the same result of the relay clicking. I've gone through the connections, etc. a few times and haven't found anything yet. But, could very well be something I'm missing. Am I right in thinking this could be a ground issue? Just a question/theory if it was a ground issue could it be tested/temp fixed by running jumpers for grounds from the relay to a bolt on the outboard or something like that?

[99yam40]

yes the jumper can be taken to the motor block, but if you run it to the battery neg, that eliminates a bunch of neg connections and wires

[Txbass12]

Cool. Good to know. I'll give it a try and hopefully that helps or points me in a direction at least. Its been puzzling for sure.

[fairdeal]

Back in Post #9 the OP stated:

The Trim motor runs if I remove blue or green from the relay and put them to the red lug on the relay.

He therefore says he already demonstrated:

- the relay has sufficient power to it, to run the t/t motor

- the ground connections inside the relay, for the t/t motor, are good

the only thing that leaves, is the relay not switching from the ground contact to the power contact

[boscoe99]

Back in Post #9 the OP stated:

He therefore says he already demonstrated:

- the relay has sufficient power to it, to run the t/t motor

- the ground connections inside the relay, for the t/t motor, are good

the only thing that leaves, is the relay not switching from the ground contact to the power contact

He says that the relay works just fine on another motor. Two relays. Both work fine on a different motor. Both don't work fine on his motor. Leaves me to conclude something is amiss with his motor.

[99yam40]

OK , maybe I put something into this that did not belong.

I said in a post above that if both the old and new relay work in a different motor but not in his.

I am not sure he said that, but he did say the new one did that

come to think on it some more, maybe the original relay was bad, and the new one was wired up wrong when put back in?