C40TLRX crank removal and install procedure

[99yam40]

all I want right now is how to remove the check valves

Did not find anything with a search here and the net

[rodbolt17]

why???????
simply test them.
but to remove them simply clamp the vice grips and rotate.
typically they are destroyed on removal.
but its your money your project.

[99yam40]

Thought I said I hooked a syringe to them with tubing and they do not check either way with air or fluid. at least 3 out of the 4 did not.

I must not have typed how I tested them.

If they are a metal ball,spring and seat ,I could try using some carb or brake cleaner to see if that would unstick them
But if they are made of something the cleaners will attack then it would not help to do that.

This is why I asked what normally fails them, maybe some cleaner will rectify or do they just fail and have to be replaced?

I kind of figured pulling them with vice grips would mess them up.
another order and wait for parts if I cannot clean to fix them

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Thought I said I hooked a syringe to them with tubing and they do not check either way with air or fluid. at least 3 out of the 4 did not.

I must not have typed how I tested them.

If they are a metal ball,spring and seat ,I could try using some carb or brake cleaner to see if that would unstick them
But if they are made of something the cleaners will attack then it would not help to do that.

This is why I asked what normally fails them, maybe some cleaner will rectify or do they just fail and have to be replaced?

I kind of figured pulling them with vice grips would mess them up.
another order and wait for parts if I cannot clean to fix them

Brake cleaner is generally MUCH EASIER on parts than carb cleaner. Unless its varnished up, BC should work fine..

[99yam40]

I guess I will pull one out and have a look to see what they are made of.
The brake parts cleaner did not do any good

[99yam40]

Well there were no guts inside the check valve.
Just the brass insert pressed in.
Now the question is,
was there a ball inside at one time and it disappeared
or was this just an orifice.

Strange all 3 on the intake half of the crankcase are the ones not working properly
Here are some pics

[rodbolt17]

depends
when you look at the parts diagram.
pay attention.
if it says nipple that's all it is.
if it says check valve that's what it is.
physically the look the same.

[99yam40]

I agree & have looked closely and the only #5 plain nipple that looks like the check valves is on the other end of the hose that the only working check valve on this motor right now is attached to.

Both of the #3 checkvalve assemblys and the one #7 on the intake half of the case are the ones I am working on.

All 3 do not stop flow in either direction and apaerently do not have anything inside of them to check flow with.
All 3 of the hoses from these CVs go to plain straight nipples on the other half of the case.

Oh yea, both CV part #s have been superseded , so maybe they upgraded them some way

I have ordered 4 new ones and I will take apart all 4 old ones when I get them replaced just to see what is inside.
If 3 of the 4 failed already ,then the 4th may be close to failure also

I just thought someone knew what they are made of inside and what causes them to fail when the did fail.
I will report back what I find

[99yam40]

I plan on getting the rest of parts in this week and start putting the motor back together soon.

Rodbolt when you install the refurbished cranks from that machine shop, do you do any cleaning off of the lubrication in bearings they ship them with and re-lube them with something else?

Seems the lube they use is like the cam lube we use to install cams on automotive motors with to make sure they are lubed well during start up and break in.
I think it is OK to just install it as it is, but would like a verification from you of what you normally do

[rodbolt17]

I normally was them off with alcohol or similar solvent and liberally oil it with TCW3.
trust me, you cannot get it to clean.

[99yam40]

Since I do not have a parts washer here, what are the options?
Pump up garden sprayer with a bunch of bottles of drug store 50% Isopropyl alcohol and plastic tub?

Maybe some cans of brake parts cleaner or throttle body cleaner?

[rodbolt17]

hot water, kitchen sink, understaning wife.

[99yam40]

Already got rid of the non understanding wife, but not sure i want to wash the crank and bearings in hot water.

It was wrapped in plastic when it showed up and seemed clean as a whistle.
I have kept it in the house.
So will spray cans of cleaner be a problem?

I will see about contacting the machine shop tomorrow to see what they have to say about the lube they put on it I guess, but understand what you have said
Thanks

Sure miss having use of a parts washer. We even had metal canisters that you poured solvent into and pressurized with air to wash things down with in the old days

[TownsendsFJR1300]

The hot water/soap etc will clean it fine. Blowing dry with an air compressor even better. Then soak the bearings with 2 stroke oil immediatly.

Pouring 2 stroke liberally over the bearing/rod end will flush out any water, brake cleaner, etc..

[99yam40]

Now that I thought about it more, a plastic spray bottle with 50 to 1 fuel mix would be a good way to wash it out. I have plenty of that around
Outside in the open air of course.

Just do not like the idea of soaking crank and bearings with water

Edit
Just talked to machine shop to see what they put on the crank to keep if from rusting.
Said it was a mix of 2 stroke oil and WD40