C40TLRX crank removal and install procedure

[rodbolt17]

once the case is split it falls out.
or you can simply tap it side to side and pull it.
me, I simply remove the housing bolt then split the crank and go.

[99yam40]

That is what I thought would be the best way to go.
Just wanted to make sure it would not cause any problems splitting the case to remove it.

Since Gasket maker is used to seal it to the crankcase, is it set in place as the case is bolted together or is it just tapped it back into place after crankcase is all bolted back together?

Seems it would seal better if set in place .
I Need to see where that o ring is set into that I see in the parts breakdown

Time to go split the case to get the crank out and see if I can determine what the noise was coming from for sure.

edit
Well it looks like the only main bearing that does not make any noise at all when I spin them with my finger is the top one, so looks like I am going to have to have the crank taken apart.

Rod when you said that machine shop replaces all bearings for around $300 does that include rod bearings also or just the mains?
And do they replace the labyrinth seals also when replacing the bearings as they are the only thing left?
Do not think they are bad, just though I would ask

[rodbolt17]

yes.
I use Carolina machine and tool, formerly Ackkermann marine.
call and talk to ken McCall.
its in Wilmington nc.

[boscoe99]

Here is another shop that might be able to do what you want done. They are a Yam dealer for whatever that is worth.

Hydro Tec Homepage

[99yam40]

Thanks Bosco, but turns out they send their cranks to the shop Rod mentioned so I will be sending mine there.
He did quote me 435 + shipping not the 300 rod mentioned, but you do what you have to to fix these old things

Actually it is Carolina Tool and Machine in Wilmington NC in case someone is trying to look it up

[boscoe99]

I suspect that Rodbolt gets a commercial discount. But...

[rodbolt17]

nope, no discount .
but I have not had a 3 cyl crank to them in a year or more.
I am going to send another in the next week or so though.
I have been using them for doing the built up cranks since about 1997 or so.

[99yam40]

Apparently there are not a lot of shops that do this work, and finding them online is not an easy task if just searching the web.

Thanks for the recommendation Rodbolt17

[99yam40]

well got the call from them (NC)and the crank is on the way back to me with all new bearings better than new
Said things were a little bit slow this time of year, so send them some work everyone

Got a welder to do some patching on the corrosion hole in block by the thermostat. I will use some JB weld to fill in the crater inside also before putting it all back together.

Question to Rod or maybe others about the power head gasket set #1
1999 C40TLRX Yamaha Outboard REPAIR KIT 1 Diagram and Parts

Does it contain the upper oil seal(diagram does not even show a number on this page)and lower oil seals also or do I need to order them separately?

[robert graham]

Do you think the bearing culprit was lack of lubrication or corrosion?....maybe no way to know?....

[99yam40]

Did not get to see the bearings taken apart, but like rod said rust is the normal reason they go south.

No discoloring and this being a premix motor, I doupt it was a lack of lube while running, maybe while just sitting
I did see a couple of small patches of rust on the bottom crank counter balance weights, so that is the best guess

Seems the only place I find the top oil seal listed is on the generator link for the motor, http://www.boats.net/parts/search/Ya...TOR/parts.html

so am wondering if it does comes with the power head gasket set.
The chat with parts online says everything needed come with the kit.

Anyone know for sure?

[rodbolt17]

it will come in the kit.
I typically buy individual parts as its a bit cheaper.
but all gaskets and seals for the powerhead are in the kit.

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Found that seal as well, just listed(here under parts) in the "generator" section.

http://www.boats.net/parts/search/Ya...TOR/parts.html


And for that "kit price", agreed, everything should come with it.

More expensive, but easier as you won't forget anything and have to wait part ways thru assembly...

[99yam40]

Thanks guys good to here the upper seal come with it and I will explore the ordering parts separately before making up my mind.

Need to find the gasket maker in the parts so I can order it also

Since Gasket maker is used to help seal the lower oil seal housing into the crankcase along with the o ring, is it set in place as the case is bolted together or is it just tapped back into place after crankcase is all bolted back together?

I have some locktite 515 gasket eliminator flange sealant,
Says it is good for natural gas, gasoline, and oils not over 300 psi, but Rodbolt's warning about using the correct sealer is making me look for the Yamaha stuff

[TownsendsFJR1300]

As that block (with seal) can come out before or after splitting the case, I would think assembling the two case halfs FIRST is how I would proceed.

Once the crankcase is together, a thin layer of sealer on the outside of the seal and the "center machined block" wouldn't hurt when installing the seal in that separate piece.

Is there an o-ring for that piece that protruds into the block(and holds that upper seal)?


I would definitly get the Yamaha BRAND stuff. They make many different sealants and I believe the current sealer being used has a different part # than what's likely in your shop manual. You don't want to tear this engine down again chasing an air leak in the lower end..

Yamaha S518 is what my mnaual calls for (I doubt it, but yours may be different), second one down; http://yamahaoutboards.com/Marine_Ri...l/page229.html