Take the thermostat out, find a piece of rubber hose that fits tight in the hole and hook your garden hose to that. Full blast with the garden hose to BACK flush back down through the engine and out the water tube. Lower unit off of course. Do the same thing with compressed air if you have a compressor. I bet there is still impeller bits in there.
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I made this last night, from a wine bottle stopper thing. It has a tight seal, I flushed again today, 1st from the stat housing, then up the pick up tube, then back from the stat housing. Blew compress air through stat housing- mostly short blasts. Put the lower unit on, stat out. Plenty of water coming out of stat housing. Stopped engine, installed the stat, put lower unit on, fully submerged in a barrel.,,,, alarm went off after 4 minutes.
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Originally posted by KayKatz... View PostAlso, how long should each flush session last?
That partial impeller part(s) would be stuck in the direction of the normal water flow(engine pumping water).
As noted above, you want to back-flush/ un-jamb it from the powerhead with it hopefully coming out..
If it still overheating, there's still crap in there(un-less re-assembled incorrectly-probably not)
Worse case scenario, which you DON'T want to do un-less you have to: R&R exhaust cover, head if still overheating, etc.
Lots of age/corrosion and broken bolts (a very big can of worms):
https://www.boats.net/catalog/yamaha...nder-crankcase
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.Last edited by TownsendsFJR1300; 05-11-2020, 03:34 PM.Scott
1997 Angler 204, Center Console powered by a 2006 Yamaha F150TXR
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Katz, was that new pump kit and housing a Yamaha one or after market?
did you make sure there was the grommet in the housing that the water tube fits into?
without it in place too much water may leak out and not fill the power head causing it to overheat.
My brothers C60 had an overheating problem twice.
1st time I dropped the lower ,hooked up, a hose to the water tube , rigged up an air line to the hose to inject compressed air while water was flowing, pulled the stat and left the housing off, turned water full blast and flushed with both (water all the time on, air on and off) .
Got some insects larva out.
second time I tried that again and it did not help.
I used citric acid with a electric pump circulating it thru the motor with the lower off for a few hours.
then flushed it again like before.
I got a lot of stuff out and it ran cool again.
you might try that before ripping it apart,
but getting rubber pieces out will probably need opening up head and exhaust plate it you cannot just flush it out
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Originally posted by KayKatz... View PostIt was an aftermarket kit, and I transferred the rubber grommet to the new housing. I'm going to rip it apart again and start over.
Thanks again.
looks like you originally had at least on piece and you found 2 others, so how may are you missing still?
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Before puling the head, I'd back flush again, with water (try to keep water from where it doesn't belong). Hopefully, with the exhaust cover off, it'll come out there.
Pistons preferably positioned(if even possible), closing off the exhaust ports(so water doesn't accidentally enter).
Use air too if needed...Last edited by TownsendsFJR1300; 05-13-2020, 11:10 AM.Scott
1997 Angler 204, Center Console powered by a 2006 Yamaha F150TXR
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Thanks Townsends, yes fresh water only. I removed the head and it's unbelievably clean in there. I was hoping that the head gasket failed, but it looks good. I ran a wire through every orifice and from the pick up tube to the side exhaust opening, I see no blockage at all. Going to shoot air in all of the passages - hope something comes out.
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