The new RR I installed has the 2 blue connectors -the new driver I will be installing also has 2 blue connectors - the original driver does not. So I am hoping this will be a simple matter of plug and play. I am still shaking my head over the difficulty of making sense out of all of this. Did not expect a 2 component voltage regulation system. If not for the collective wisdom provided by the forum I would have remained stumped. Just hoping I don't still have the problem after replacing both as per the first poster on this thread described.
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STUMPED...2003 F225 High Voltage After Replacing Rectifier
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Originally posted by Larry Onisto View PostDid not expect a 2 component voltage regulation system.
(and I have no knowledge beyond what has been posted here recently)
is that the "Driver Assembly' does NOT regulate voltage -
it just provides the isolation for the Aux charging lead.
but,
when Yamaha addressed the "defective" 2003 regulator/rectifier -
the "improved" r/r version ended up with two output connectors/4 output wires
why? I can't guess
but since the new & improved r/r has different connections -
of course the Driver Assembly had to be changed to match it.
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[QUOTE=Larry Onisto;n225668 Did not expect a 2 component voltage regulation system.[/QUOTE]
And who would expect part of the R/R distribution to be integrated within a fuel pump driver. And why call a relay a driver?
It would seem that the right hand at Yamaha knows not what the left hand is doing. Or has done.
Early F200/F225 R/R's did not have an isolator lead. While earlier V6 models did. Early F225' s (and the detonation prone big block HPDI's) did not have a knock sensor. While earlier V6 models did.
Yamaha has great craftsmanship. Their design seems shaky. But better than Yamaha data which is terrible.
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I really hope this will be my last post on this regulator/driver problem - Tried getting a new driver and it was out of stock - except from Japan for over $500 plus shipping. I took a chance and ordered a new used driver that came off of an 06 with the same part number as the updated driver. After struggling with this since last year I was in fear of the dilemma of the first poster on this thread who installed the new regulator and driver and still had an over voltage issue. Got the new-used driver part just two days ago and installed it - at idle the voltage was 14.1 as had been the case with the old driver. on throttle up to 1600 rpm in gear I would see the voltage climb to 18vdc and at 3000 rpm to nearly 20 volts which is enough to fry sensitive electronics. With the new driver in place the voltage stayed in the 14.1 to 14.3 range from idle to WOT. I was relieved at the outcome but I do not for the life of me understand this 2 component process for voltage regulation. Installing the new driver fixed my over voltage problem - regulation is happening somewhere in it. Earlier diagrams seemed to show the presence in the driver of 2 discrete rectifiers and likely some zener based voltage regulation. Thanks to all that contributed diagrams and technical info - helped me understand this enough to have hopefully fixed it. Time to go make some waves.
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Originally posted by Larry Onisto View Postwith the old driver. on throttle up to 1600 rpm in gear I would see the voltage climb to 18vdc and at 3000 rpm to nearly 20 volts With the new driver in place the voltage stayed in the 14.1 to 14.3 range from idle to WOT. I was relieved at the outcome but I do not for the life of me understand this 2 component process for voltage regulation.
But what I also don't understand:
you changed your original R/R to the updated part with two blue plugs -
but continued to use the original driver, which only had one black plug?
The blue and black plugs mated?
but then you were running with one blue R/R plug not connected?
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I got confused
I thought his old driver had the blue connectors and all he replaced to fix the over charging was the driver.
Just reread it again and seems he replace both the RR and driver
it was the original poster that replaced both, but did not fix his overchargingLast edited by 99yam40; 07-20-2020, 08:10 AM.
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Originally posted by fairdeal View Post
I don't understand the two component regulation.
But what I also don't understand:
you changed your original R/R to the updated part with two blue plugs -
but continued to use the original driver, which only had one black plug?
The blue and black plugs mated?
but then you were running with one blue R/R plug not connected?
whaler.jpg
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After a dozen or more hours following the fix voltages are holding at around 13.8 at idle and 14.2/3 at various speeds and wot.
As a parting comment this repair was frustrating on 2 levels, first, the rectifier/regulator was buried deep inside the front of the engine requiring very careful almost surgical disassembly of the main wiring harness and various other components (see photo below). Secondly, the details of the repair requiring a second component (Driver unit) were impossible to find unless you are a certified yamaha technician with access to technical bulletins describing the fault and subsequent modification requiring an updated driver unit. Just figuring out how the charging system works took some effort. Thankfully that info was provided by knowledgeable contributors on this forum and allowed me to complete the fix. It shouldn't have been so hard to find out that the 2003 F225 had an design defect like this - only to be told by direct mail by yamaha if they have your current address as registered owner. I understand about corporate sensitivity about admitting a design boo boo and then the issue of potential liability for a fix but making information so hard to find in the age of internet is not a good strategy customer support strategy. I like my F225 - generally speaking its the best outboard I have ever owned just wish it was easier to find information. Thanks to all who posted info and helped me work through this fix.
f225vreg_cr1.jpg
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