I installed a new trim cam sensor since the original was cracked . I adjusted to the resistance spec both full up and down but the gauge only reads as its fully up . Thoughts ?
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I don't know what it means to "adjust to the resistance spec both full up and down"
I adjust position so that it reads full down, when the engine is full down,
and let 'full up' take care of itself.
btw,
the unit reads high resistance as full up
which means it sees disconnected as full up
IIRC it reads two devices connected to it at the same time as full up.
exactly what year & model are you working with?
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Originally posted by gsdanno1 View PostService manual procedure specifies checking resistance at the connector in the cowl in both the full down and full.up positions. Both results were within spec
OK, yes, that is the procedure for confirming that the sender is not defective.
But tweaking the installed position of the sender
(or cam, on those models)
is 'nother thing entirely.
Again - can you divulge what year / model you have ?
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Sorry about that . It's an 06 f150 . A little backstory: I had to replace my steering tube bushings and while everything was off the boat , I discovered the old cam was cracked , so I replaced it with the new steel style . Trim gauge was working before I replaced the cam
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Disconnect the boat side of the connection. Any change in the display (top bar should go solid, I would think)? Jump the boat side of the connection together - that should trick the gauge into thinking the engine is down. Maybe someone else can confirm, but I would think this would at least verify if the boat wiring/gauge is operational.2000 Yamaha OX66 250HP SX250TXRY 61AX103847T
1982 Grady Weekender/Offshore (removed stern drive & modded to be an OB)
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Originally posted by gsdanno1 View PostNo change while moving the cam . The top bar is blinking
the both respond to varying resistance, between two extremes.
With a fuel gauge,
disconnect the sender from the gauge = maximum resistance = "empty"
short across the sender connections = zero resistance = "full"
With the trim gauge,
no connection with sender = maximum resistance = "full up"
sender wires shorted = zero resistance = "full down"
Can you get your finger or a tool on the sender swing arm
so you can move it and see if the gauge changes?
if the gauge doesn't move from full up
while you are moving the arm,
that's an unplugged sender
or a broken wire.
(or a completely 'dead' sender - but never heard of that)
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Did all that with the tool.on the arm yesterday . Rotated the cam fully this morning no change in bars . I would think that if the sender was bad I would'nt be able to get the correct resistance readings , which I was able to do . Going to have shoulder surgery today so I won't be be able to get back on it for a couple days (I'll bring in a stand in shoulder !) , but keep the suggestions coming . I'm still leaning towards it's something that I did when I had everything apart for the steering tube bushing repair
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I believe you replaced part #1: https://www.boats.net/catalog/yamaha...0406/bracket-2 (Besides the electrical switch)
The original is plastic and the new one is metal. The plastic will develop a hairline crack and will not have enough grip to prevent it from spinning on that shaft.. It has to be installed as in the picture.
As noted, adjust that cam (part #1) so the trim gauge shows fully down with the engine fully trimmed down.
Should look like this:
Engine tilted up:
.Last edited by TownsendsFJR1300; 03-10-2020, 12:14 PM.Scott
1997 Angler 204, Center Console powered by a 2006 Yamaha F150TXR
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I would not think the top bar should not be flashing.
might be that the wiring to the gauge is not making good contact in the connectors.
as someone said already, unplug the sender and short the wires to the gauge,
if still no gauge movement try shorting them at the gauge itself to see if that moves it
bad connector, wire, or gauge.
test and see
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