Motor won't STOP

[Werdsdrew]

New to the forum so thanks in advance for any help. I have a 2002 f155 tlra. When returning to the dock a couple weekends ago I couldn't get it to shut down. Not with the key or the kill switch. I had to pull the last fuse on the bottom of the motor which I believe is the ignition coil to get it to stop. I took apart the key switch and it looks fine as far as I can tell. Any ideas?

Thanks,

Drew

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Read this thread, especially post #22. Should solve your issue..

http://www.yamahaoutboardparts.com/f...h23386-p2.html

Please post how it works out..

[Werdsdrew]

Thanks for the insight.

[Werdsdrew]

Update. My tech and I figured out last night that I have a bad harness somewhere between the helm and the motor as we couldn't get continuity on some of the pins. My next question would regard pulling the new cable through. I've pulled wires before and it's been a little tight on my boat. Any tricks of the trade to make it easier?

[rodbolt17]

some of the pins????
was this some random splatter gunning of something OR a detailed pin to pin using the SERVICE manual diagram of the pin numbers to wire colors?

black at the keyswitch is engine ground, test between the engine block and the keyswitch.

white is engine kill circuit,test with key OFF from the engine block to the white kill circuit wire at the ECU.
if the first test passes continue.
if the second test fails look for a bad keyswitch or an open on the white wire between the ECU and the keyswitch.

I have seen bad ECU's and bad main relays cause this as well.

when you turn the key off does RPM lower slightly?
if it does rap on the ECU and the relay with a screwdriver handle.

[Werdsdrew]

We matched the pins to the correct corresponding pins via the 2002 manual. We either didn't have continuity or intermittent continuity on some of the harness. We replaced the harness this afternoon and everything is back to normal. The interesting thing is we could see no glaring cuts or nicks. The only noticeable feature we saw was some wear where the cable probably rested inside the rigging tube or bottom of the interior of the boat. My tech said that water permeation or separation is likely to blame for failure. Thanks again for the insight!

[TownsendsFJR1300]

We matched the pins to the correct corresponding pins via the 2002 manual. We either didn't have continuity or intermittent continuity on some of the harness. We replaced the harness this afternoon and everything is back to normal. The interesting thing is we could see no glaring cuts or nicks. The only noticeable feature we saw was some wear where the cable probably rested inside the rigging tube or bottom of the interior of the boat. My tech said that water permeation or separation is likely to blame for failure. Thanks again for the insight!

Thanks for the update..

My neighbors boat had a bad wire (the boat rigging itself). The exterior looked fine, we narrowed it down on the wire and I could manuipulate with my fingers on/off continuity. We replaced that section, then cut apart the bad wire for S&G's. It was corroded dead smack in the middle, how I don't know.

Anyway, congrates and safe boating..

[Werdsdrew]

I couldn't resist so I cut the harness apart. I found a powdery substance inside like talcum or corn starch through out the whole wire. I'm not sure if it was there from the get go or not. I didn't spend a ton of time looking but was still unable to see the failure.

[TownsendsFJR1300]

I couldn't resist so I cut the harness apart. I found a powdery substance inside like talcum or corn starch through out the whole wire. I'm not sure if it was there from the get go or not. I didn't spend a ton of time looking but was still unable to see the failure.

Yep. Sounds like moisture crept in there over time.

His damage was one single wire (lights or bilge pump, I forgot). The failed wire section was maybe 1/4" long and once the insulation cut away, very, very obvious the wire rotted away.

I didn't see any previous punctures in the wire that would have allowed moisture in there and wasn't crimped up or in a tight spot...

[99yam40]

Kind of makes you think it is induced at factory maybe, they need to sell more stuff.

As an electrician for most of my working life, I have found a few new cables with bad wire in them. Found one where the same color wire was not even attached in middle of cable, just laid next to each other

[Werdsdrew]

So I ran the boat today after we installed the new harness. It ran differently than it has in the past. And when I mean differently, I mean in a good way. It seemed more responsive and just sounded slightly different. I've been running this engine for five years now so I notice little nuances. I didn't have any higher top end or better hole shot etc, but it definitely seemed like it has been tuned up a little. Any one have any experiences like this?

[TownsendsFJR1300]

So I ran the boat today after we installed the new harness. It ran differently than it has in the past. And when I mean differently, I mean in a good way. It seemed more responsive and just sounded slightly different. I've been running this engine for five years now so I notice little nuances. I didn't have any higher top end or better hole shot etc, but it definitely seemed like it has been tuned up a little. Any one have any experiences like this?

I have with my old Yamaha motorcycle (2004 FJR1300) but that was a green connector (not a bad wire) that was prone to water intrusion. It was an intermediate misfire Yamaha couldn't find.

Point being, a slightly bad connection can cause havoc on different electronic parts/systems. Some guys in England had "crosstalk" between different wires/electrical parts due to salt (from salting the snowy roads) getting into a connector.

ANY electrical connector I pull off, (bike/boat/car) gets a dab of di-lectric grease(including the base of a light bulb). It helps prevent that water/salt intrusion.

Glad you got it fixed...