Water pump pipe - Broken?

[MarshMarlowe]

I recently bought a boat powered by a Yamaha F115 TX. At WOT, I hear a whistling noise. After doing some research, it seems that this whistling noise is caused by a dry driveshaft bearing and can be silenced by greasing the top of the driveshaft. So - I pulled the LU today, and the water cooling pipe snapped-

I can look up into the lower casing and see there were two grommets. One came out with the pipe (as you can see in the picture), and one is still in place. I checked SIM Yamaha, and the part number I come up with for the pipe is 90440-16002-00. I checked that number online, and I'm getting results for 2006 and later Yamahas, which makes me think that this may not be the right part number for a 2003 F115.

Can anyone help me confirm that this is the right part number? Also - does this tube extend all the way up to the power head

[jb123]

2003 F115TXRB Yamaha Outboard LOWER CASING DRIVE 2 F115 Diagram and Parts

[TownsendsFJR1300]

The below pic is for my F150 but I believe the water pipe(#9 below) has to be installed with the engine separated from the mid section as it drops down from above..

I may be wrong for your model but another member had the same issue with his 115.


The pic is the engine upside down, the exhaust stack next to it..

And BTW, if you have a 25" shaft, with the extension piece attached above the LU, there may be a bushing (there is on the F150) in the middle of the mid section that the drive shaft runs thru that will squeel if not lubed. Automotive grease WILL not LAST, don't ask. Use Yamaha waterproof marine grease, great stuff..

[MarshMarlowe]

That diagram was what I needed. For some reason I couldn’t find that on SIM Yamaha. Thanks a lot! Parts ordered…

I can look up into the mid section and see a rubber grommet where the longer pipe came out.

You can see that little grommet in the diagram here-



I’m thinking (hoping) that the new pipe will just slide into that grommet without having to disassemble the engine further. I’ve heard that some of these 25” engines have and extension piece that makes them 25” shaft. How do you know if it has an extension piece? I’m actually looking to sell this engine because it’s mounted to a bracket on a 20” transom, and the boat doesn’t like that set up too much

[TownsendsFJR1300]

I’m thinking (hoping) that the new pipe will just slide into that grommet without having to disassemble the engine further. I’ve heard that some of these 25” engines have and extension piece that makes them 25” shaft. How do you know if it has an extension piece? I’m actually looking to sell this engine because it’s mounted to a bracket on a 20” transom, and the boat doesn’t like that set up too much

The main lower unit drive shaft is longer. You know on the outside of the engine, if the lower unit has a piece(approx 5") inbetween the mid section and the lower unit. Part #18


The upper boxed area shows the extension piece;



When I change my waper pump/remove the LU, that piece stays in place, the LU drops from there... There is a short extension as you can see for the WP tube(part #17), can't see but the speedometer tube has an extension in there as well


I'm pretty sure the engine and mid-section have to be separated. Do a search if no one chimes in. Another member tried to get around it but didn't work. Its not cheap to have a shop do it but the OP did it well within a day (no broken bolts).

[MarshMarlowe]

Do you have the link to thread you're referring to? I did a search earlier using all the different keywords I could think of, and I couldn't find another thread on this issue..

[TownsendsFJR1300]

No I don't, let me check the threads I'm subscribed to..

I can't find it either.

Someone's going to have to chime in or check with your Yamaha dealer.. Sorry...

[MarshMarlowe]

Quick question - If it does come to me having to remove the midsection to access this pipe, will removal of the powerhead also be required? Anything to be aware of, other than corroded bolts? Oil passages, etc? Thanks!

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Quick question - If it does come to me having to remove the midsection to access this pipe, will removal of the powerhead also be required? Anything to be aware of, other than corroded bolts? Oil passages, etc? Thanks!

To my knowledge (I may be wrong), the powerhead has to be removed from the mid-section to access and install the new water pipe.

Invest in a shop manual, well worth the investment...

[MarshMarlowe]

So I got the cooling pipe in today. Here's a picture of the new pipe compared to the old pipe:


The piece that's missing from the pipe on the left is what's left inside the midsection. There's no threading or attach point on the water pipe, as best I can tell, the pipe just shoves into the grommet that's still in the midsection.

[TownsendsFJR1300]

A stiff coat hanger with a 90degree bend on the end should pop it loose (reaching down)

Same hanger with a longer "U" shaped hook, should lift it out. Spraying some liguid wrench (or something like that) should also help break the stickyness too...

I'd be curious if that "flare" is atop that seal...

BTW, what hole is that your looking down?

Good luck.

[MarshMarlowe]

Thanks Scott. I did try a coat hanger bent in the way you describe, no luck though. I soaked it with some penetrant spray, I'll try again tomorrow.

Part of that flange came out with the pipe, so I believe (hope) it's below the grommet. The exploded parts diagram I posted earlier seems to confirm this.

I'm actually looking "up" that hole. That hole is one of two holes that the rubber grommets set in to hold the pipe in place. The grommet has been removed from that hole (I do have a replacement)

[TownsendsFJR1300]

If the coat hanger didn't work, a piece of solid wood or steel rod(maybe 3/8"'s?)
pushed down or up, back and forth should give you enough leverage.

Hopefully as you stated, that tube just pushes up from the bottom. I suppose you can't verify until that little broken piece is out...

Actually, thinking about it, that flare should would have to go on the bottom(in relation to the grommit). Just re-looked at your parts fisch and I agree with you, that tube goes inbetween. Just can't bump that rubber grommit loose..

So when the lower unit is installed, its sandwiched inbetween both and can't be pushed upwards. I would start by pushing (with the rod), downwards.

Good luck!!

[99yam40]

will need to think out of the box to make a tool yourself.

can you find a tap that would cut some threads into the tube so you can run a threaded rod into the piece of tube to pull on?
Maybe grind a notch into a rod to catch the tube on the top side?

[boscoe99]

The normal procedure is to remove the power plant so as to disassemble the mid-section in order to replace the water tube.