Any way to Test ECM for 2004 HPDI 200 hp

[rodbolt17]

again that's the beauty of YDS it shows the status of SWB,SW1,SW2 and SW3.
when testing the blk/red to ground I have no clue what the results would be as your going through some parralell cicuits in the tach as well as the ECU.

if the tank connector is plugged in you would get 0 ohms if SWB is closed.
but unplugged testing black/red to ground has to many variables in the ECU as well as the tach.

[jkk520vx]

Rodbolt,
I have some answers but i don't know where it is leading me:
1. With the engine tank nearly full and the remote tank nearly full and i turn the key ON, I get 2 flashes of all three bars and then all three bars stay on constantly.
2. With the engine tank very low and the remote tank near full with the key ON, I get an alarm and all 3 bars flashing.
So based on your post and the results of test 1 (all 3 bars flashing with the key ON and tanks full), I proceeded to your recommendation to check the SWB circuit and I checked every wire in the SWB circuit for continuity to the junction point and to the ECU and to ground. No issues with the wires as i have continuity on all of them to the next junction point.
As before, the switch SWB continues to test OK. The switch is closed and I get an open circuit as i pull the switch out of the tank and it closes again when i lower it.
I then tested each of the 4 wires on the engine side of the connector to the SWB. I get the following reading (with a digital meter) TO GROUND WITH THE KEY OFF:
yellow - 158 ohms
black/red - 810 ohms
Black - 0 ohms
blue - 0 ohms
yellow to black red - 995 ohms
I then did a voltage test with the key ON:
yellow to ground - 11.9v
black/red to ground - 11.7v
Black to ground - 0v
blue to ground - 45 mv
yellow to black red - 226 mv
yellow to blue - 11 mv
black to blue - 25 mv
Since the system did NOT pass the SWB flash test, i did not try any other of the voltage test but i will if you think it help zero in on what is happening.
Thanks

[jkk520vx]

Rodbolt,
One more interesting thing. In your system description you say that if you remove the SWB ground or unplug the SWB at the connector the center bar should come on. Wheni unplug the connector (with the key ON) the LEFT BAR FLASHES and the center and right bars are NOT illuminated

[rodbolt17]

why are you bothering with SWB?
you have proven the circuit works when you drained the engine tank and at key on you had 3 bars flashing and an audible.
leave the OHM meter ALONE.
just back away slowly.

I actually think I have posted this recently.

there is a splice that can fail in the engine harness that will make the tach think all is normal yet the ECU is going to see SWB as open.
it can be checked with a multimeter or the YDS.
YDS would be a better choice.

however by all three bars flashing the ECU sees SWB as closed and its trying the initial 180 second pump on.

during this 180 seconds,with the remote tank plugged in, what is the voltage from the brown bullet connector to the blue bullet connector?

I think this has been mentioned as well.

during this 180 seconds what is the voltage brown to engine block?
during this 180 seconds what is the voltage blue to engine block?
ALL tests MUST be inside the 180 sec window.
if nessasary turn off the key,wait10 seconds and turn the key back on to reset the 180 second timer.

[jkk520vx]

Rodbolt,
within the 180 second window I get 12v for both readings (brown to ground and also for blue to ground).
The reading from the brown connector to the blue connector is 0v

[jkk520vx]

Rodbolt,
A few posts ago you told me that when i unplug the SWB at the remote tank i should get the center bar to illuminate when i turn the key to ON, but when I do this i get the left bar illuminated and the center and right bars are not illuminated.
Does this tell you anything?? Is the tach perhaps not properly wired to the system?
With low oil in engine tank and remote tank full I get an alarm and all 3 bars flashing so that passes the test.
What's next??
Thanks,

[rodbolt17]

your not getting this.

if your getting 12v blue bullet connector to ground fix the open circuit in the blue wire.
or the ECU ground or the ECU failed.
if the engine tank is low and you unplug the remote tank you get a left bar.
remember ALL SWB does is inform the ECU as to remote tank level.
meaning do I have enough oil for auto transfer or not.
that's all SWB does.
when remote tank is low SWB opens removing the ground on the blk/red wire.
auto transfer is inhibited and the tach sees the open,loss of ground, on the green/white wire and illuminates the center bar.


now when the ENGINE tank is low BUT SWB is closed the ECU has two decisions.
one is a system malfunction OR initial tank fill.

at this point the ECU applies the ground via that blue wire for 180 seconds and flashes all three bars.

its a stupidly simple 4 switch system.
there are some harness splices that can fail.
ECU failure is rare, I think I have seen 3 in 20+ years.

[boscoe99]

Before I did another damn thing I would fix whatever is wrong with the black/red wire. There is no way in Hades that the resistance on that wire should be what it is reported to be.

In one post you said:

THE KEY OFF:
yellow - 158 ohms
black/red - 810 ohms
Black - 0 ohms
blue - 0 ohms

In another post you said:

2. I have continuity on all wires from to the same wire at the ECU; the brown and black wires have continuity to ground, the blue wire is open to ground, and the black/red stripe wire has 3500 ohms to ground

Which is it? Either way, it should be almost nil.

Disconnect the coupler to the ECU. Disconnect the couplers to the trim/oil harness. If you don't know what these are, holler.

Retest the black wire with the red tracer. One probe on the engine block and one at the terminal end that connects to the ECU. If you have more than an ohm or so something is amiss. Remote tank should have oil in it so that SWB is closed.

[jkk520vx]

Boscoe,
Yes i did post two different values. My initial readings had indicated 3500 ohms but subsequent readings dropped it to 810 and currently black/red to ground is 822 (about the same as previously). I may have had some corrosion or something but it seems to be pretty consistent now at around 800 (this is with SWB disconnected - so it is seeing whatever resistance is being generated by the ECU).
When i run your test (oil harness disconnected, SWB connected, probe from black/red pin on the ECU connector to ground), I get 0.5 ohms.
I also followed Rodbolt's suggestions and there is no open circuit in the blue wire based on two conclusions:
1. The pump runs when the emergency switch is depressed. This of course by-passes the ECU putting the ground directly to the blue wire.
2. There is full continuity from the blue wire at the remote tank all the way through to the blue wire pin in the ECU pin connector.
I still "feel" (but not overly confident) that the ECU is not connecting the black wire to the blue wire when it goes into the ECU and therefore there is no voltage between the brown and blue wire at the pump.
Another "strange" (but unfounded) concern is that the yellow wire shows 158 ohms to ground. Is this "normal"? This yellow wire changes to brown of course at the SWB connector just inside the cowling.
YOUR THOUGHTS NOW??
Thanks for continuing to work with me on this!!!

[boscoe99]

I did not say a thing about disconnecting the oil harness. I specifically mentioned the trim/oil harness which is a completely different harness.

SWB needs to be connected as it is part of the circuit that provides a ground from the block to the ECU. The tank needs to be full of oil to close SWB.

Here is another illustration that depicts the test points. If you do not understand what is being tested then ask.



Here are the trim/oil couplers.

[jkk520vx]

Boscoe,
I disconnected the 4 wire connector: pink, gray, green/red, black/red (on the engine side) connected to white/red, blue/white, green/red, green (on boat side).
I also disconnected the 3 wire to 4 wire connector: gray, pink, black (on engine side) connected to gray, pink, black, orange (on boat side).
Were these the correct connectors as my wire colors are different than what yo show.
See the picture below (I think it is there).
I made the test to the correct pin at the ECU and the engine block to get 0.5 ohms per your diagram.

[jkk520vx]

Boscoe,
Is it possible to call me (or i can call you). If so i get you my phone number.
Thanks

[boscoe99]

Boscoe,
I disconnected the 4 wire connector: pink, gray, green/red, black/red (on the engine side) connected to white/red, blue/white, green/red, green (on boat side).
I also disconnected the 3 wire to 4 wire connector: gray, pink, black (on engine side) connected to gray, pink, black, orange (on boat side).
Were these the correct connectors as my wire colors are different than what yo show.
See the picture below (I think it is there).
I made the test to the correct pin at the ECU and the engine block to get 0.5 ohms per your diagram.

Those are the correct connectors. I see that you have just 0.5 ohms now on the black/red wire which indicates that continuity is as it should be.

Stand by.

[Hollywoodfish]

Pardon my ignorance. I am experiencing the same issues with one of my motors 2001 HDPI 150 (LZ150TXRZ).

Where can I find a schematic for the wires of the oil system. SW1, SW2, SW3...Etc....? I want to run through testing the wiring to find the fail.

Also, what harness do I check? Check the one at the oil tank or the one that comes into the motor from the boat.

Thanks.

[boscoe99]

Schematic is in the back of the service manual. You can get a service manual from Yamaha directly or from a Yamaha dealer.

A wire is like a length of chain. It is only as good as its weakest link. You might need to inspect both harnesses. Engine harness and the remote oil tank harness. From one end of each to the other end of each. Connectors are known hot spots.

By the way, you might get better responses if you create a completely new post and state your complete model identity and the problem that you are currently having, and when the problem manifests itself. Who has the time to go back and try to find out what the OP's problem actually is.

And report what type of tachometer you have. And if it has lights or icons, what are they doing and when.

The first rule in solving a problem is to understand what the problem is and when it shows its ugly head.