Need a 1-Y Ignition Tester

[150 ProV]

Looks like I need one to test my CDI module.
Anybody know where to buy/rent one?
Thanks

[rodbolt17]

I don't even think its made anymore.
buy a DVA attachment for your DVM.
test CDI inputs and CDI outputs.

[150 ProV]

Dva?

Thanks for the reply.
I have a Fluke DVM. What's a DVA?

[rodbolt17]

a DVA is a PEAK voltage adapter.
MOST meters read true RMS and MOST digital meters tend to buffer the incoming signal rather hard.
what we look for in testing CDI ignitions is PEAK voltage outputs.
so either you need a meter with a PEAK voltage setting or a dedicated PEAK voltage meter like the stevens CD-77.
however the last CD-77 I bought was almost 300 dollars, the DVA adapter for a DVM is about 60 or so.

[150 ProV]

My Fluke 289 has a scope on it. How do I charge the CDI? I have a Yamaha service manual for my ProV150LD but it shows the 1-Y.
Can I find a procedure? Or, maybe I can pay you or someone to test it.
By the way, I'm an electronics technician in my day job. 33 years.
Thanks again.

[150 ProV]

How about this?

Get An Adapter to Troubleshoot CDI Ignitions | Boating Magazine

[rodbolt17]

with the CDI unit on the bench there is NO good way to test it.
mount it back on the engine and test it per LIT-18559-84-05 page 178-179 covers testing the D model P150.
if you look the peak voltage,loaded and unloaded, specs are there.
this machine works like almost any other capacitor discharge electronic ign system.
merc used it,tohatsu,suzuki,yamaha,OMC and a few others used a CDI system over the years.
guess whuut, they all work basically alike as trons is trons is trons no matter where on this planet you are located.

[150 ProV]

Thanks again.
I have service manual LIT-18616-00-50 and it shows how to test with the 1-Y.
I guess those dial setting numbers are the peak voltage numbers I'm looking for.
I'll get back here after church...

[99yam40]

How about this?

Get An Adapter to Troubleshoot CDI Ignitions | Boating Magazine

yes that is what you need

Or you can make one yourself, there is just a diode,cap, and resister in there from what I remember.
The cap is the hard one to find at proper voltage
I believe the 1 amp diode and 22uf cap were rated at 400VDC

[150 ProV]

Alright, so I'm trying to make some sense out of what is in my service manual and what I need to do with my DVM/DVA.

Do I get across the pulser coils and charge coils with everything hooked up and turn the motor over to get the peak voltage readings? Or, is there a magnet on the flywheel inducing a current into the induction windings on the pulser/charge coils? Which if that is the case, I read the voltage across each inductor coil from the pins on the disconnected plug.
It looks like my V6 has two charge coils and three pulser coils.

Then, if everything tests good there, check the peak voltages across all six coil outputs from the CDI module?

I'm having trouble understanding the procedure for testing the charge and pulser coils. I understand the circuit diagrams fine.
Thanks again.

[99yam40]

Loaded refers to all wiring hooked up while taking the voltage readings
unloaded refers to the wires disconnected while you take the readings

[150 ProV]

Please bear with me...

The top image of the three are the outputs from the CDI module to the ignition coils. Loaded means I should have everything hooked up like it is with the engine running. All tests should be performed "loaded"?

I put one of my meter leads to the #1 connector and the other to ground. Put water on the foot and turn the motor over with the starter several times. Peak voltage should be 60 volts ac (from the second image chart). Correct?
Repeat for the other five ignition coil outputs. Correct?





Check the two charge coil voltages the same way? Peak voltage should be 70 volts ac across the brown and red leads and 50 volts ac across the blue and black/red leads.

Check the three pulser coil voltages the same way? Peak voltage should be 20 volts ac across the white/red and white/green leads, 25 volts ac across the white/black and white/blue leads and zero volts across the white/yellow and white/brown leads. Correct? (Is the third induction coil not doing anything?)

Thanks again for the help and patience.

[99yam40]

Hold on now.
You do not have the test equipment mentioned in this manual but you are still trying to test, is this correct?

DVA adapter will give peak DC voltages, The manuals call for setting meter on DC

but I have no idea what your manual specs are, ac or dc.
And I do not think you have the DVA or the Y-1 or the load coil
So have no idea what you should be reading

[150 ProV]

I'll buy the DVA if I need to.
Here's my dilemma... I bought a boat from a dealership. This is my first boat. He said he would stand behind the boat and fix any issues. It's not that guy, it's his mechanic.
I took the boat out one time and all was well. The next time I kept blowing a 20 amp fuse on the motor. I took it back and the dealer promised it would be fixed. The mechanic removed the 30 and 20 amp fuses and installed two 20 amp auto-reset circuit breakers (which is a no no in my opinion). He bumped the starter and declared the motor fixed. (I know, I should have had him run the engine but like I said, this is my first boat. I'm learning quick.)
I came home and tried to run the motor with water on the foot. Nothing. The circuit breaker tripped then reset. I got rid of the breakers and installed the correct fuses and fuse holders. I turned the key switch on and the fuse blew. I measured Ohms on the remote control side of the remote cable from red (+12 VDC) to ground. When I turned the key the Ohms went to near zero. Dead short. I opened up the control box and found a yellow wire mashed under a cover screw boss. The dealer said they went into the remote control before I picked the boat up because it wouldn't stay in gear (BS). I moved the shorted wire off the ground and no more short circuit. But there were other damaged wires in there. So, I bought a new remote ($265). I installed it and put water on the foot again. The starter ran but the motor wouldn't run. I took the #1 spark plug out and grounded the threads against the motor. No spark. I called the dealer up last Saturday and he said bring it buy and he would have it checked Monday. Monday it hadn't been touched. And not Wednesday and not Friday. He promised it would be checked first thing Saturday morning. I called Saturday afternoon and he said it would be checked Monday. So, go figure. Then he started blaming me for ruining the motor.
If he doesn't fix it Monday I'm going to pick it up and fix it myself.
I can perform the tests to determine if the coils or CDI are bad but I don't know the procedure for testing them. Can somebody help me out please? I bought this thing because my ten year old daughter (who has autism) wants to fish. We fish from the bank a lot but I want to take her out to catch bass.
Thanks again.
Rob

[ausnoelm]

leave it to the dealer to fix, the more you fool around with it, the more reason he has to tell you to shove off when it comes to repairs... did someone mention peak DC?? peak AC maybe.