Yamaha F40 2014. few questions

[silver_arrow]

I'm new here so first of all I want to say hello to everyone and wish you Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year.

Last seasone I bought Yamaha F40HETL 04./2014.
I used it for a seasone and I'm very happy with outboard. Great start, calm on minimum, good travel speed, minimum fuel consumtion... I'm using it on 5m rib for family trips and spearfishing. It has 700 hours now.

After the seasone I've changed motor and bottom leg oil, filter, sparks, all anodes (motor, leg, trim), impeler, cleared the channels (leg and thermostat down, cleanser using electric pump for two hours) and fuel water separator filter.
My first question is do I need to take a look or change something else?

My second question is about some rusty bolts and nuts (please se attached photo). Is this normal and is it critical? What they holds? I think it is imposible to remove them without saw ?

And my last question is about horse power. They say this Yamaha is 40/60. My outboard is without blockade so now is 60 hp. What that means? Is that motor 40 or 60 hp by default?

Thank you in advance.

[99yam40]

me myself ,I would wait for the real need to replace those rusted bolts/nut.
probably will need to take a lot of stuff apart to do that.
see if you can kill the rust and coat with something to keep it from growing to fast.

you have a 40HP motor, why do you think it is a 60?
is it a jet lower unit, or a prop unit?

[silver_arrow]

Thanks 99yam40.
This Yamaha is for Italian market. It is 4 cilinders, 996,00 cm^3 and 113 kg. Declared as 29,4 kW. You need to do some modification on air intake and you get 60 hp. Maybe someone will know what exactly you need to do to get from 40 to 60.

Real 40 hp has 3 cilinders and something over 700 cm^3 I think.

Lower unit is prop. One person on 5m rib max speed is 33 nm on 6000 rpm.

[boscoe99]

Thanks 99yam40.
This Yamaha is for Italian market. It is 4 cilinders, 996,00 cm^3 and 113 kg. Declared as 29,4 kW. You need to do some modification on air intake and you get 60 hp. Maybe someone will know what exactly you need to do to get from 40 to 60.

Real 40 hp has 3 cilinders and something over 700 cm^3 I think.

Lower unit is prop. One person on 5m rib max speed is 33 nm on 6000 rpm.

The F40HETL and the F60HETL share the same block.

Find the Yamaha parts catalog for your F40HETL. Find the parts catalog for the same year F60HETL. Compare the parts used on your F40HETL to the parts used on the F60HETL.

Remove those parts that are used on your F40HETL but that are not used on the F60HETL. Install the parts that are used on the F60HETL, but your F40HETL, on your F40HETL.

More than likely it is something within the air intake system but most certainly it will be the engine control unit. A few thousand US bucks should do it.

[silver_arrow]

The F40HETL and the F60HETL share the same block.

Find the Yamaha parts catalog for your F40HETL. Find the parts catalog for the same year F60HETL. Compare the parts used on your F40HETL to the parts used on the F60HETL.

Remove those parts that are used on your F40HETL but that are not used on the F60HETL. Install the parts that are used on the F60HETL, but your F40HETL, on your F40HETL.

More than likely it is something within the air intake system but most certainly it will be the engine control unit. A few thousand US bucks should do it.

You are right.
But I think it's not just a block. I heard that most of the parts are the same except ECU and extra ring in F40HETL air intake. When removed you got 50 and something hp. To get 60, ECU needs to be changed. I heard this so I asked if someone knows to be sure.
Do you know where catalog parts or engine diagrams can be found for F40HETL?

I didn't heard for F60HETL. I know for F40HETL (in Europe called 40/60) and F40GETL (called 40/70). They say that difference between HETL and GETL is 8 agains 16 valves, ECU and tansmision ratio.

What do you think about these rusty bolts? Does the bottom holds silent blocks?

[99yam40]

where are you located?
can you not find any parts diagrams in you area of the world?


there was a guy some time back that said all you had to do was remove a restrictor to increase the HP on some motor that are not in the USA area,
but he never said he changed props or ran the motors on a dyno to prove the HP increase

I would think if the HP increased much at all a different prop would be needed

I am not sure what

silent blocks are

[silver_arrow]

Croatia/Europe.
I will take a look for parts/diagrams localy. I tought that someone maybe knows some kind of a Yamaha database where you can download parts or service manual for exact model. I was looking on forum but I didn't find for HETL. Never mind. I will try to find something here localy.

I think removing restrictor is what you need to do on HETL and GETL. They say it is totaly diferent outboard after that. Better. If I remember well for HETL dyno says 54hp after removing. For 60 you need do something with ECU. Not sure.

And you are right. On my Yamaha prop was changed. It was very well choosen for this rib. Alone on boat 33 nm at 6000 rpm. Whole family (five of us) around 21 at 4000 rpm (10 l/h).

As for silent block. It is some kind of suspension, which consists of two metal sleeves, inserted one into the other. The gap between is a rubber insert. Vibration cancelation. Like 99yam40 says, I think bolts will wait until there will be no other than change them. To much work.

[pstephens46]

I hear the Croatian women are hot! Why stress on this 20hp thing?

[pstephens46]

Found one.

[boscoe99]

F40HETL parts catalog can be found here

https://www.yamaha-motor.eu/ie/en/se...rts-catalogue/

[panasonic]

Silver-Arrow do you see anything wrong with the steering linkage bolt/nut in the picture you posted?

[silver_arrow]

F40HETL parts catalog can be found here

https://www.yamaha-motor.eu/ie/en/se...rts-catalogue/

Thanks boscoe99.

Silver-Arrow do you see anything wrong with the steering linkage bolt/nut in the picture you posted?

Thanks panasonic. It is an old photo. I've change it in the meantime. Now it is tightened and ok.