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  • Yamaha F200 a couple maintenance related questions

    Alright, so having recently completed my seasonal turnaround maintenance (F200 manufactured 11/07, "2008" model, 205 hours, 60 of those from me this year), I have a few questions for the gurus here. And the yahoos too. I'm committed to doing as much of my own maintenance as I can, since the local Yamaha shop at my lake is not somewhere I would spend money, and the nearest good shop is 140 miles away.

    Anyway, my questions are:

    1. The motor oil was fairly dark when changed. Now, I did run a pint or so of pure seafoam through after changing my Racor filter element, as well as a tank of fuel richly mixed with seafoam, as well as running ring free all season. I noticed the black floating slick after the seafoam shock, and a lot of black residual from the upper exhaust port after the seafoaming (I don't think the first owner used any kind of additives). Is it reasonable to expect some of the loosened deposits to have migrated into the oil as well, causing it to be fairly black?

    2. The leg oil was ok but also a little dark, kind of a blue color. Is this normal?

    3. Last year I picked up new leg oil screws, both top and bottom. The top one didn't seat well during the season, and I tightened it to stop it from dribbling. In reinstalling it after this year's leg oil change, I stripped something. Examining the screw, its threads were galled and shaved, they weren't a sharp V shape. Without any good options at hand, I reinstalled the original top screw, and it seemed to seat. However, I don't know if I'm out of the woods yet. Realistically, the leg threads are probably stripped a bit, although they didn't look so visually, mind you, oil was flowing past them as I was trying to look at them. Should it fail to seal properly in the future, is there some kind of dope that will work in a pinch, or should I put in a helicoil and be done with it? If so, what size would I need?

    4. One of the lower unit tutorials said to grease the prop fitting until grease came out. Well, I gave it a few shots, and it just pressurized the cavity instead of coming out visibly like it does from other fittings. I tried to not get too rammy with the grease gun, but my basic question here is, am I going to be blowing out some kind of seal by having pressured up the propeller bearing chamber or whatever is greased at this nipple? Can the pressure be relieved by pressing on the nipple center? Should it be? Thoughts?

    5. In general, what are the most important preventative maintenance items, in your opinion?

  • #2
    Agreed with the above.

    Running the Seafoam will help loosen up carbon and blow it out. I change my oil yearly and even with low hours on the engine in that years time, the dip stick looks clean BUT once drained, its dark (and that's without Seafoam).

    RingFree I use as well and have run that very heavy at times in other gasoline engine with fuel issues W/O incident.

    Flushing (especially in salt water/brackish water is a MUST) and my highest priority when coming back in to the house.

    I'll also drain the VST into a cup and check for crap/water etc, maybe every third time. Between the transom mounted 10 micron water / fuel separator and the Yamaha filter, its usually pretty clean.

    If you have an older, larger vessel with a built in fuel tank, and are having water / ethonol issues, I found a product that actually works..

    K100. It keeps the water from separating and as you run the engine your burning off the water with the fuel. I have a 6o gallon built in tank (1997 vintage) and was getting some moisture(found in the VST). Between NOT using ethonol and K100(its also a stabilizer), it took me about a year to burn / get all of it out. The fuel is just as clear and smells fresh as if purchased yesterday.

    All I run is RingFree and K100, nothing else. Original VST filter in the engine, fuel tank is original, never removed/ pumped/ PU screen NEVER cleaned. Purrs as good as new..

    Fuel Treatment, Fuel and Gas Additive | K-100 HOME

    Demonstration Videos | Kinetic Fuel Treatment
    Scott
    1997 Angler 204, Center Console powered by a 2006 Yamaha F150TXR

    Comment


    • #3
      Great info

      Thanks for the info, guys. Good stuff to know.

      I will keep a close eye on the leg oil screw - it's the top screw BTW. No issue with the bottom one.

      Also I will drain and check the VST. I've been researching threads and there seems to be a lot of focus on VST and fuel issues when there do happen to be issues with the Yamahas.

      As far as fuel quality, I always run premium gas, as well as the Yamaha fuel conditioner and ring free. I'm open to other fuel conditioners if there is a really outstanding one. I deliver the gas from 30 gal barrels through a 17 micron water/particle filter and 10 micron particle filter train, and I have a Racor 10 micron water/particle filter onboard. I keep the tank full (70 gal) to avoid breathing and I have never had any moisture issues. I was told by two people in the business that fuel quality was very important and to never use jerry cans, so I do what I can to feed the best quality gas possible. In the spring I'll run the tank down and then juice it up with fresh new gas.

      I've attached a photo of the gas rig for reference.

      Comment


      • #4
        Sweet! Mine is simply pulling up to the marina dock and getting bent over!!!

        BTW, another product recomended by my Yamaha dealer, LPS2;
        (Purchased it at the Yamaha shop)

        http://www.lpslabs.com/product-details/561

        Its used under the cowl, a nice light coat helps prevent corrosion, won't hurt any hoses/plastic, etc. The underneath of of my 7 year old engine looks as good as new...
        Scott
        1997 Angler 204, Center Console powered by a 2006 Yamaha F150TXR

        Comment


        • #5
          Nice fueling station!! I am very jealous. Not sure about how important the octane is, but that is a whole other discussion. I think the ethanol is more the issue. I would address those striped threads before running it much more. I have had mixed results with a heli-coil repair where the depth of the threads is not very deep to begin with. Let us know how goes.

          Comment


          • #6
            Yes, the heli-coils are a contested issue. Thankfully, I live next door to a fabricator guy who can probably help me out. I was even thinking of some kind of thread locker or sealant, which I still wonder about. Maybe someone will chime in.

            The fuel station was easy to build, and really the most expensive part was the pump itself. This way I get the freshest and cleanest possible gas. I'm a little leery of the local gas station's "premium" gas, and I don't believe that the additives used in the gas station gas really do any good unless you are running an F1 racecar. The marina is a few bucks more per fill as well - it's cheaper direct from the bulk depot, although it does involve manhandling and hauling the barrels. Once in a while I'll top up at a gas station if I happen to be in town, but otherwise I use the filter rig.

            I suspect that true fuel quality is a big contributor to a lot of issues that guys run into with their motors - be it hose and pump degradation, deposits, screen blocking, water accumulation, injector fouling, etc. The only place I found to get real pure ethanol and additive-free premium gas was the bulk depot! Although I think the marina gets it from the same place.

            That LPS stuff seems similar to some of the Yamaha sprays?
            Last edited by jjmoneysauce; 09-15-2014, 11:41 AM.

            Comment


            • #7
              Originally posted by jjmoneysauce View Post

              That LPS stuff seems similar to some of the Yamaha sprays?
              I don't know, I hadn't tried the Yamaha spray. I was assured this product would NOT harm anything under the cowl (one of the largest Yamaha ONLY dealers/shops in SW Florida) and try to buy only the best.

              Another option vs a heli coil:
              ++ TIME-SERT Threaded inserts for stripped threads, threaded inserts, thread repair stripped sparkplug's, Ford sparkplug blowouts, threaded inserts threaded, repair stripped threads, stripped threads, inserts threaded inserts, Ford spark plug repair,
              Scott
              1997 Angler 204, Center Console powered by a 2006 Yamaha F150TXR

              Comment


              • #8
                if you decide to do the heli-coil.
                be aware the standard 8mm helicoil MUST be shortened about 3 coils.

                Comment


                • #9
                  Thanks Rodbolt! 8 mm, OK. Got it.

                  What would *you* recommend for a rethread solution? You seem to know your way around Yammies.

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    me??
                    I get to heli-coil a few a year.
                    why folks get so ham handed with the screwdriver I have no clue.
                    but if its stripped and wont tighten it will leak.

                    you can special order coils in various lengths.
                    I find cutting off about 3 coils makes the standard insert about the right length.

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Originally posted by rodbolt17 View Post
                      me??
                      you can special order coils in various lengths.
                      I find cutting off about 3 coils makes the standard insert about the right length.
                      The catalog has a wide array of sizes and types.

                      Is this the correct type:

                      4255-8CN 080S ??

                      with all the drilling and tapping info as per the M8 size?

                      I haven't drilled and tapped since high school, so I would defer to my friend the metal fab guy, but I need to make sure to get the right parts...

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        I think rodbolts concern is with the remaining coils that do not make contact with the newly cut threads is that they would ultimately break off and do damage to the gears inside the LU. If you measure correctly the depth of the hole and adjust the depth of the coil you will be alright. My issues with a shallow depth helicoil from my experiences, is that a heli-coil is a bandaid and with out enough depth, you will have compromised strength and will likely strip the treads out again. You will need to be very careful in the future tightening this bolt in.

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Thanks stroke, yeah copied rodbolt and copy that. It seems like helicoil works, and I appreciate the comments on details. This is a very helpful forum!

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            helicoil works fine, I usually don't drill for it on a lower unit drain or vent.
                            go slowly with a well greased tap and it will cut it without drilling.
                            the grease will hold the shavings.

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Originally posted by rodbolt17 View Post
                              helicoil works fine, I usually don't drill for it on a lower unit drain or vent.
                              go slowly with a well greased tap and it will cut it without drilling.
                              the grease will hold the shavings.
                              Good tip. Thanks RB.

                              Comment

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