trim pump "screams"

[canaminal]

1988ish 90hp 2stk

When I got this motor the trim screw was turned all the way in so no tilt/trim. I opened the screw and it works but going up it is quite noisy with high pitch scream.

Im torn between "It works, dont mess with it" and do I change trim oil, check pump bearings etc ?

This motor sat on boat in back yard from early 90's carbs and fuel pump needed full servicing and it runs perfect, no hrs on it, so Im wondering what did prev owner/builder do to trim pump running it with screw closed? Would that even hurt it? And are the bearings in the motor now dry?

Is an actual yamaha manual avail still? not much interested in a thousand pages of every yamaha ever made.

[Livinlinelife]

Check this out see if it helps at all.

Trim tilt "screams" Evinrude 1987, 70hp - 80623 - Page: 1

[TownsendsFJR1300]

1988ish 90hp 2stk

When I got this motor the trim screw was turned all the way in so no tilt/trim. I opened the screw and it works but going up it is quite noisy with high pitch scream.

And are the bearings in the motor now dry?
.

If your referring to the manual release valve(screw-flat head) it should be screwed inward fully for nomal operation.

I would first put a little bit of water proof grease on the rams and let the grease work into the seals. They will squeel if thier dry and especially if they haven't been greased recently..

On that link, post #3 refer's to the actual electrical motor squeeling which is very possible(dry bearings/bushings).

If (after gresing the ram(s), the noise continues, put a screw driver to the trim motor, handle to your ear. Operate the trim. If the electric motor is seizing up/needs attention, you should hear it thru the screwdriver. If this is the issue, the motor can come off the assembly and depending on how good or bad it is inside, may very well be lubed, rebuilt, etc.. New seals if going this route...

Something else, especially for an older engine, the two main pivot pins that go thru the top and bottom of the trim ASSEMBLY, could potentially squeek, again if not greased...

Please post what you find..

[robert graham]

Some air bubbles in the pump fluid can cause noise....maybe purge/fill your hydraulic fluid....some folks use Dexron II transmission fluid. Also check/grease the tips of your trim rams, which if dry/dirty can cause a racket....

[canaminal]

"If your referring to the manual release valve(screw-flat head) it should be screwed inward fully for normal operation."

Hmm? memory may be flawed on that, could be it was all way out, motor turned but did nothing till I turned screw a few times. Ill go bottom it out and have a listen. seals on rams were dry, silicone rubber grease applied 3 times, its worked in I think.

Ill be changing gear oil and trim oil today they are both full but 20 years old and not "clear"

Thank you for input and link!

[TownsendsFJR1300]

"If your referring to the manual release valve(screw-flat head) it should be screwed inward fully for normal operation."

Hmm? memory may be flawed on that, could be it was all way out, motor turned but did nothing till I turned screw a few times. Ill go bottom it out and have a listen. seals on rams were dry, silicone rubber grease applied 3 times, its worked in I think.

Yes, that manual release valve, for NORMAL RUNNING, must be closed (clockwise) fully to operate. Once you un-screw it, it lets the pressure bleed out and you can physically raise the engine, or gravity will pull it downwards...

So is the squeeking gone now with the silicone?

BTW, you may want to invest in the Yamaha grease that should be applied to the ram's, etc. It does make a difference, vs auto or say regualr bearing grease(the non Yamaha stuff will NOT stay on or hold up nearly as long, and its not teriibly expensive). I'll re-grease my ram's when ever they start to look dry, or any sign of squeeking. It doesn't take much and the Yamaha grease works its was down there. (besides that, you know its safe for the rubber seals as its recommended).