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OX66 V250 Oil Injection Question

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  • OX66 V250 Oil Injection Question

    Hey guys,

    2000 OX66 V250TXRY

    I am in the process of reconnecting the oil injection system on the motor. The previous owner had purchased it already disconnected as well. needless to say i have no idea as to why, when, or if there was a good reason.

    The motor came with the main (on engine) tank, float, switch, and pump (Mikuni). It did not have the linkage arm nor the drive shaft. I bought a remote tank and electric pump from local dealers used pile. the float and pump both work in remote tank. I also now have linkage arm and drive shaft all installed.

    Currently i am in the process of testing everything with a fine comb and priming everything. However, while going through my Yam service manual and testing the ENGINE oil tank Float, (SW1,SW2,SW3) i noticed that the float the manual describes if different from the one i actually have. The one in the book shows a single float where are the one i have has 2. It appears that the bottom float is only for SW3 or "NO OIL" . The manual i have for the Oil injection system (downloaded with service manual ) says SW2 should show "OL- Continuity- OL-" when connected to voltmeter as the float drops from top to bottom. My float shows just " OL- Continuity" and then stops at the circlip around the shaft. This is with meter leads between the black and the Blue/green wire.

    Is there 2 different variations to the float assy? If so are all variations compatible with the engine? There are No markings on my float other than the letter "Z" or "N" depending on how u look at it stamped in the rubber on the cap.

    Thanks in advance. Im just paranoid that the oil injection was removed for a reason other than the guy just didnt trust it, or maybe he just wanted to kill mosquitos, who knows.

  • #2
    I can't find a model V250TXRY for 2000.

    What is the engine serial number?

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    • #3
      OOPS, sorry, its an SX250TXRY . little slow in the brain this morning.

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      • #4
        Serial Number:

        61A X 103749

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        • #5
          Early float sensors used one float for all three switches. Later float sensors use two floats for three sensors. Top float activates switches SW1 and SW2 whereas the bottom float activates SW3 only.

          Operation is the same.

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          • #6
            Thanks, That makes more sense. I was just confused because the manual i have shows a very similar drawing but with single float only. As does the precision blend manual i also have. I have tested my float and measured with calipers. it works as described in that drawing. Any other pointers you might have would be greatly appreciated. I have about 30gal of premix still in the main tank so i should have a pretty good troublshooting buffer to work with.

            One more thing... Does the engine need to be RUNNING for the automatic transfer to take place? I have looked high and low for the answer to this and the best ive found is that it depends on the motor. Currently mine does NOT transfer with just the key on, I HAVE NOT tried starting the engine yet tho.

            Thanks in advance

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            • #7
              Originally posted by carolinaflare View Post
              Thanks, That makes more sense. I was just confused because the manual i have shows a very similar drawing but with single float only. As does the precision blend manual i also have. I have tested my float and measured with calipers. it works as described in that drawing. Any other pointers you might have would be greatly appreciated. I have about 30gal of premix still in the main tank so i should have a pretty good troublshooting buffer to work with.

              One more thing... Does the engine need to be RUNNING for the automatic transfer to take place? I have looked high and low for the answer to this and the best ive found is that it depends on the motor. Currently mine does NOT transfer with just the key on, I HAVE NOT tried starting the engine yet tho.

              Thanks in advance
              In the case of your model, yes, but with one exception. That exception is for the initial fill mode.

              Drain the engine mounted tank by removing the plastic sump. Reattach and secure the sump. Make sure the boat tank is full.

              Turn the key to the ON position. The remote tank pump will begin to run and will continue to do so until either (1) the engine tank becomes full such that SW1 closes or (2) three minutes time has elapsed.

              While the engine tank begins to fill the alarm should be sounding and a Yamaha tachometer should show all three bars or lights flashing. Once the engine tank gets a bit of oil in it the alarm should stop (SW3 has opened) and the lights/icons should stop flashing.

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              • #8
                Thanks, I will try that later today. I dont think it is actually doing that on its own, but i will drain it and try.

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