problems with cold start yamaha 115 4 t

[the viking]

Hello, I annoy you to ask you a question about my Yamaha 115 4t 2010 the engine has very little use only 300hs, it worked very well since I bought it until now, this year with the coming of winter I am from South America, it started to cost to start, change the **** of bateries and the problem persists.
Once it starts it works fine, it accelerates well and has the same strength as usual, if I turn it off and start it in less than 24 hours it starts without problems, but many times it is several months without starting, even though I bait it with the But to load fuel it costs a lot to start, one thing to note is that sometimes after a while of use when putting it in neutral it is accelerated to 2000 rpm and does not go down from there, the only way to regulate it is to turn it off and on then it regulates at 700 rpm, on some other occasion when it is running at 4000 rpm some tugging, I am very far from an official service, the mechanic of the area told me that it was a problem of the electric fuel pump and injectors, the I sent to clean but the problem persists, now it tells me that it can be an idle valve but that you are not sure, I bought the YDS diagnostic system to verify what the problem is but it does not accuse me of any, someone can guide me how to test that valve or what or It's something to check.
Sorry for the translation of Google but my English is basic.
Best regards

[boscoe99]

I would focus my initial efforts on the idle air control valve. Have you used YDIS to perform the IAC valve test?

Will the motor start if and when the throttle is opened up just a tad in neutral?

Your English is just fine. Much better than my Spanish or Portuguese.

[the viking]

Hello, thank you for your prompt response, I have the YDIS, I saw the option to open the valve but no changes to start, it is more when we did cleaning injectors and electric pump did not seem to be burned or overheated, if you notice that the core just if it moves, as it has 6 pins, we measure with tester and it has 2 sets of 3-pin coils with exactly the same electrical resistance, is there any way to test it outside the IDLE set ???? A new one to try these places is worth 400 dollars and I must wait 30 days for the mail.
With the IDIS if the active without being placed visually should make some movement ???
Beforehand thank you, Best regarts.

[fairdeal]

this is what a 'good' IAC valve looks/sounds like while performing the YDIS "Stationary" test:

https://vimeo.com/264625510

[the viking]

Thank you very much for the video is what I needed to see to know if it works correctly.
Best regards.

[the viking]

Hello good afternoon, yesterday I was checking the IAC valve, I did 2 or 3 stationary tests with YDIS just moved nothing like the very slow video and the rattling that makes in the video, almost was not heard, so I put a little WD40 to loosen it, after 5 minutes I tried again and it looked like another, it was already moving and tabletting as in the video, if I notice after 5 or 6 tests I warm up enough, install it and on the 2 start stroke I start without problems just Accelerated 1200 RPM, it is good that it was not very cold about 10șC, I went for a walk and behaved perfect.
My doubt is if these valves usually have problems and it is worth having a spare one since in the middle of Patagonia it is very difficult to get them quickly.
Thank you in advance for your very clear contribution.
greetings

[99yam40]

if I was you, I would buy a new one and install it.
then save the old for a spare.
if those valves stick it can and will overheat the ECU (because it keeps trying to make it move) and can hurts the ECU itself