300 HPDI Won't Start

[Mdelgado]

Hey guys, have about 1100 hours on my HPDI and its been a strong running engine. This past weekend i *****ed for a couple hours, checked some lobster pots and then went to get on plane and had to give it full throttle to get up , which isn't normal. I backed off the throttle a bit and all of a sudden something kicked in and had full power restored and everything was fine all the way in. Went out the next day for an offshore trip and couldnt plane again, so this time I pulled back to idle and she stalled and wouldn't restart and idle. It will fire right off strong then almost immedietly die.

Some things I did so far
-replaced vst/canister filter
-replaced plugs
-verified 50psi on vst with guage
-verified 980 psi on high pressure with YDS software
-verified all 'Normal' on YDS
-I unpluged the TPS to put the computer in default mode and it starts and idles fine, high, but fine

So if YDS verifies all systems are fine, it leads me to believe its a mechanical issue? But it runs fine in default mode which makes me believe its electrical?

Any thoughts?

Here's a quick vid

[boscoe99]

I am confused.

The title of your posts is "300HPDI Won't Start".

In your message you say that it won't restart.

You then go on to say "It will fire right off strong then almost immedietly die."

You then say when you unplug the TPS it starts and idles fine.

If it won't start how does it get to the point that it will fire right off or starts and idles fine?

[Mdelgado]

I am confused.

The title of your posts is "300HPDI Won't Start".

In your message you say that it won't restart.

You then go on to say "It will fire right off strong then almost immedietly die."

You then say when you unplug the TPS it starts and idles fine.

If it won't start how does it get to the point that it will fire right off or starts and idles fine?

I edited my post, let me know if theres still confusion

[Mdelgado]

Quick note, last night also tested the coils with the meter and all within spec. And did link and syn and adjusted TPS to spec.

no change

What cyls are cut out for the shift interupt ?

[Mdelgado]

I'm just thinking, the engine runs fine in default mode, so thats timing set at 7 degrees, increase pulse. It won't run with air temp disconnected (which should increase pulse), so that only leaves the timing. So after start mode, what controls the timing?

[Mdelgado]

No thoughts? guesses?

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Quick note, last night also tested the coils with the meter and all within spec. And did link and syn and adjusted TPS to spec.

no change

What cyls are cut out for the shift interupt ?

Just a note but worth checking, make sure your shifter linkage, under the cowl, is properly adjusted.

There should be two marks that line up if adjusted correctly..

It does seem as thou your getting ignition while cranking and then ignition stops after you release the key..

[Mdelgado]

Thanks Scott
The marks you're referring to, are they part of the link and syn procedure, alligning the arrow to the center of the roller in the linkage?

Yeah i do get ignition at startup, and it will run fine in default mode. So something is happening right after startup. It must startup in default mode and then use other variables/sensors after start I'm guessing..

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Thanks Scott
The marks you're referring to, are they part of the link and syn procedure, alligning the arrow to the center of the roller in the linkage?

Yeah i do get ignition at startup, and it will run fine in default mode. So something is happening right after startup. It must startup in default mode and then use other variables/sensors after start I'm guessing..

No, I was referring to where the actual shifter cable attaches initially to the under cowl linkage. It will move forward and back ward as you shift the shifter. (looks like a dished slide), the shifter cut off switch should be dead smack in the middle (neutral) position.

I'm not familiar with the electronics of your engine, and the above is likely Not your issue but its easy enough to check.

Good luck, someone here will figure it out..

[99yam40]

Hopefully Rodbolt will pop in and give some info for you

[Mdelgado]

No, I was referring to where the actual shifter cable attaches initially to the under cowl linkage. It will move forward and back ward as you shift the shifter. (looks like a dished slide), the shifter cut off switch should be dead smack in the middle (neutral) position.

I'm not familiar with the electronics of your engine, and the above is likely Not your issue but its easy enough to check.

Good luck, someone here will figure it out..

Every little bit helps Scott, I'll check that out too. If a shift switch is cutting cyls #2 and #3 and the shift interupt is cutting #4, it could add to my problem since its possibley running on half the cyls.

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Every little bit helps Scott, I'll check that out too. If a shift switch is cutting cyls #2 and #3 and the shift interupt is cutting #4, it could add to my problem since its possibley running on half the cyls.

I don't know how many cylinders it cuts out when shifting, probably varies like everything else Yamaha marine makes...

Someone just had an issue with that exact switch. They sprayed it down with something and got it working again.

As noted above, Rodbolt should have a good idea..

Good luck..

[Mdelgado]

All set now
I guess not many hpdi guys on here

[transport vmax]

Sounds like the same thing that happened to me. Strong start, then stop, start again and no plane. So this is what I did, started at the water separator, then worked my way all the way to the HPDI filters. It was the canister filter past the electric fuel pump that was stopped up. So I just changed all the filters and there are a lot. Problem solved now it runs like a scalded A#E !!