I have a 2015 Yahama F300 UCA on my Parker. I have been running synthetic in it since new. If I decided to now run regular Yama lube would there be any cause for concern switching over?
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Sounds like a retrograde step.
what does the manual specify? I understand there is a full synthetic Yamalube and a semi that is not stated which to use on most ((all?) engines. Therefore probably no harm going to semi synthetic oil but synthetic is superior.
This can become "which oil is better" thread that are notoriously argued in other engine, boat, bike , car forums.
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There's no inherent issues with going "back" to regular dino oil. As long as the oil you are thinking of using is within the specs allowed for by your owner's manual, you'll be fine.2000 Yamaha OX66 250HP SX250TXRY 61AX103847T
1982 Grady Weekender/Offshore (removed stern drive & modded to be an OB)
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Your owner's manual recommends Yamalube 4M FC-W or any 4-stroke outboard oil. Yamalube 4M FC-W is mineral-based.
But the underlying question of "should I use synthetic or mineral-based oil?" is one that no one can definitively answer. I've used both in cars and boats, and I've never noticed a difference. I do know that synthetics will chemically last longer, but if you change the oil regularly, it shouldn't matter.
And even though your owner's manual recommends mineral-based, that doesn't mean you should take it as Bible. I know parts of my owner's manual conflict with the service manual, and both conflict with other videos I've seen Yamaha put out (like using EFI fogging oil, for example). So again, it's hard to say. But one thing is pretty clear: if you change the oil regularly, you should be good for many many years.
2011 F50TLR, 2010 G3 V167C
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Originally posted by rejesterd View PostYour owner's manual recommends Yamalube 4M FC-W or any 4-stroke outboard oil. Yamalube 4M FC-W is mineral-based.
But the underlying question of "should I use synthetic or mineral-based oil?" is one that no one can definitively answer. I've used both in cars and boats, and I've never noticed a difference. I do know that synthetics will chemically last longer, but if you change the oil regularly, it shouldn't matter.
And even though your owner's manual recommends mineral-based, that doesn't mean you should take it as Bible. I know parts of my owner's manual conflict with the service manual, and both conflict with other videos I've seen Yamaha put out (like using EFI fogging oil, for example). So again, it's hard to say. But one thing is pretty clear: if you change the oil regularly, you should be good for many many years.
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Originally posted by notamechanic View PostThanks for the replies. The cost of the synthetic has been creeping up, it is not quite double the price but substantial. I change my oil regularly, sometimes I might hit 125-30 hours but it gets done
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