2002 LF225 stopped running after a little short circuit spark

[bacardi23]

Hey guys!
I know this is more of a bike forum but since the forum is and a I quote "all Yamaha's technical / mechanical / repair / preparation questions" I got a little(hopefully) problem with my outboard engine..

I hope someone can help me as I've also helped several of our comrades over here in these last few years so here it goes....


I was working today on my 2002 LF225TRXA Yamaha outboard because I could not put it in gear.
First thing I did was test the cables and they were good.
The sliding mechanism was completely stuck and wouldn't move so I suspected the gear shaft that goes from the bottom end to the bottom of the engine block was somewhat corroded so I turned off the battery switch and unbolted the black plastic frame, behind the two air filters, which holds several electrical components so I could get some space to lubricate gear shaft properly and also disconnected 3 ground cables so I could have that little bit of space and but still it was stuck.

After that I connected the ground wires and connected the battery so I could raise the bottom end and remove it.
I figured out that my yamaha mechanic didn't properly align the gear shaft on the bottom end and that was the culprit of my issue because I could now move the engage/Neutral/disengage lever very easily.

I then refitted the bottom end and lowered the engine so I could arrange all the cables up top on their proper places but I forgot to disconnect the battery switch and when I was bolting the 3 ground cables I had a small very spark (a short)..

Now I have no spark and my engine won't turn on but before it was idling perfectly (but just wouldn't go into gear)..

What tests should I do to find out what is damaged?
I've already tested the stator and the 6 fuses on the top port side and they are all good.

I was really hoping to finally but my boat in the water and go fishing..

Thanks in advance!
Vando

[greasyshaft]

Do the gauges power up?
Does the engine crank?
Can you hear the high pressure pump come on for a moment after turning the key to the on position?

This is solely an outboard forum so you are in the right place!

[TownsendsFJR1300]

I suspect it spins over as it would have to, to ascertain he has NO spark..

[boscoe99]

Check your fuses.

[bacardi23]

Hi guys!

I'd already checked the fuses for continuity and their are good.
Tested the stator for continuity between all 6 wires OK and there is no continuity to ground on any of the 6 terminals.

However, I only found 6 fuses, isn't there supposed to be at least one or two other main fuses 100Amps or similar?

The starter engages the bendix and the engine cranks.
I didn't notice if the high pressure pump makes any sound though..

I tested the neutral switch on the engine (next to the F/N/R sliding mechanism) and it has continuity when in Neutral so it is OK.

I tried one of those sparkplug testers and I couldn't see any spark.

One weird thing is, testing the continuity from the +Lead on the starter (that comes to the battery) and ground there is no continuity BUT when I turn on the key to the ON position on the control box I get continuity from that +Lead to ground where I believe there shouldn't be any, right?

[boscoe99]

It is recommnended that you have a Yamaha mechanic service your motor

[bacardi23]

Well, I live in a small island in the middle of the Atlantic, and there aren't any Yammy mecs around here..

BUT a friend of my dad, that has been working with the head Yamaha mechanic in the mainland, brought his YDS system that he has been using for a few years to fix yammy engines to check things out.. and was troubleshooting with the head Yamaha mech over the phone.

At first the program didn't let him do any tests because it kept saying the engine was not in Neutral..
We tried a new 703 control box but error was still there...
We found another switch under the R/N/F sliding mechanism and with a screwdriver we were able to press it.
After this he could some testing.
We were able to test 2 ignition coils at a time with the YDS software and all 6 had spark!
Tested both fuel pumps and they passed the tests.

But still the engine won't start with the key.. it turns but there isn't spark on any of the sparkplugs.

We suspect it is the pulser coil that is not working.

How do I test it properly?
I tried resistance testing between B & W/B, B & W/G, B & W/R and had infinity.
Tried between W/B & W/G, W/B & W/R and got around 1005 ohms (just over 1Kohms)... manual says it should be between 400ish and 500ish.

Could that little spark I mentioned have burnt the pulser coil?

[Kodiakan]

Its been 30 years ago that I shorted a Yammi so my memory is fuzzy, but I think when I shorted it I blew the rectifier.

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Your owners manual or shop manual should show you where all your fuses are.

Most fuses are generally under a flat cover with a manual release(no tools required). There may very well be ANOTHER FUSE box... I'd be looking again...

[rodbolt17]

the pulser coil test failed.
lose all 6 and you lose spark on all 6.
the common think is that black pulser coil ground lead.

[bacardi23]

Yeah it seems that the pulser coil ground lead it got damaged somehow..
Maybe it was because my father tried continuously to power up the engine with the previous weak battery. (was replaced by a new VARTA 180 aH 1100CCA tested at about 1065CCA's)
He said the battery cables going to the battery switch inside the cabinet got extremely hot and even smelled like they were melting..

Anyways, he's bought an used pulser coil off ebay but until it gets here it'll be two to three weeks

SO, I've never disassembled one of them so I ask...Is it possible to remove those ground wires and solder some new ground wires on the pulsers is it?
I've got really good soldering skills and equipment it's just a matter of it is possible or not?

It would def save me a few weeks of waiting :\

[bacardi23]

Hey guys!
So, I was able to remove the flywheel today and I took out the stator and pulser assembly out..

As I was suspecting, the 3 ground wires from the pulsers were crimped together in to one and had heatshrink BUT the wires were almost totally corroded.
I was able to cut the damaged part of the wiring and soldered/heatshrinked new ground leads to all of the 3 pulsers.
I also crimped all 3 ground leads together, soldered them, heatshrinked them and put some black insulating tape to protect the cables from a possible heat source and crimped&soldered a fork spade terminal for the ground..

I will be putting it all back together tomorrow after lunch and test everything out!

I've bought an used pulser assembly off ebay (i did ask the seller to test it out first) so this is only a "semi-temporary solution" so I can enjoy some fishing until the part arrives from the US..

Do you believe 30min~1hour of idling suffice as testing my fix before I do put the boat in the water?

Thanks for the help!

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Excellent!!

If you got good connections/ good grounds and you now have spark you should be good to go.. If its cranks up, I'd be out fishing..

You may want to put some di-lectric grease around all those connections to help prevent later corrosion too.

[bacardi23]

well, I surely hope so

I just might have to bypass the cut-off and the other F/Neutral/R check switch on the shifter (inside on the side of the engine because I believe they aren't too good anymore but it's an easy fix if it has to be done

I did put SuperLube Teflon Grease (which is labeled as Dielectric and saltwater resistant) on most of the parts I could reach.. but when I do get the "new" pulsers I'll surely will coat everything with it.

The tube is exactly like this one:
Super Lube Synthetic Grease With PTFE Teflon 41150 400 Gram Cartridge

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Re the switch, if you can't get a another one, you may try pulling that one and spraying electrical contact cleaner in there in an attempt to save it.

It'll shift a little bit harder W/O it.

To my knowledge, its kinda odd for that to get salty and corrode way up there (maybe not). In either case, I would suggest using a spray protectant for under the cowl onto the power head. Of course you'd want it as clean as possible before hand.

A product called LPS 2 was recommended by my dealer and leaves a nice light coating on the powerhead. My engines 7 years old, salt water use and looks brand new, inside and out.. Should help prevent that corrosion in the future.

http://www.lpslabs.com/product-details/561