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Update: Fixed!!
I didn't snap a lot of pics as I only had a narrow window of time to work on the boat this weekend. Pic below is of the port side after scrapeing and scrubbing out the deposits but prior to cleaning up the mating surfaces. To get the bulk of the deposits out I used elbow grease and Jensen 'Orange Sticks' PN 445-497 (basically wooden dowels w/ beveled ends....these worked incredibly well on the block too). After manual scrubbing and scrapeing I let the parts soak in 100% strength Lime a Way for ~1 hour followed by a fresh water rinse and then a baking soda bath. Immediately after that process while the deposits were gooey rather than hard I went back at the most stubborn stuff w the orange sticks. A large amount of the surfaces I was able to get back the original paint w/ damaging it and exposing the underlying aluminum.
The block was not as bad as the heads. It still had a fare amount of crud that I had to get out but it was nowhere near as bad as the passages in the heads. For this I found that using a 1" PLASTIC putty knife worked great at cleaning the internal block walls. I would insert the putty knife between the sleeve and the block and there was just enough of a bend in it so that the sides of the knife would be forced to scrape the inner walls of the block perfectly. Eventually I could do an extended figure 8 (one extra loop for the bottom cylinder) running the knife around the block and just watch the crap falling out of the bottom. Used the orange sticks and a dive light to get any thing that was left behind.
In all the job probably took me 10 hours to complete. Granted, I've built up/rebuilt a lot of car motors this is the first outboard I've worked on so I was taking my time. When doing heads I always chase all threads w/ a roll tap (not a cutting tap!) to hone and clean them out, wire wheel all of the fasteners, clean up mating surfaces w/ some brand new razors, check the deck/hear/cover w/ straight edge and feeler gauges, just prior to mating all surfaces get a quick scrub w/ acetone, etc... Fasteners we're put in w/ marine grade (no copper) anti seize with Rectorseal tru blue+ on the top 4 threads in an attempt to keep salt water from getting in.
Sea trailed the boat today and had no issues w long runs at WOT. After about 40 mins I did get an alarm...to which I let out a deluge of words that would make a trucker blush...but when I popped the cowling to buzz out and see which over temp switch was shorted I saw the my oil tank was at the low mark. Hit the switch to manually pump some oil back up and back to WOT I went. I thought I had fixed the precision blend filling system but I guess not. Anywho, the over temping, on a sea trial of one, is no longer an issue. Whew....
Thanks!
I didn't snap a lot of pics as I only had a narrow window of time to work on the boat this weekend. Pic below is of the port side after scrapeing and scrubbing out the deposits but prior to cleaning up the mating surfaces. To get the bulk of the deposits out I used elbow grease and Jensen 'Orange Sticks' PN 445-497 (basically wooden dowels w/ beveled ends....these worked incredibly well on the block too). After manual scrubbing and scrapeing I let the parts soak in 100% strength Lime a Way for ~1 hour followed by a fresh water rinse and then a baking soda bath. Immediately after that process while the deposits were gooey rather than hard I went back at the most stubborn stuff w the orange sticks. A large amount of the surfaces I was able to get back the original paint w/ damaging it and exposing the underlying aluminum.
The block was not as bad as the heads. It still had a fare amount of crud that I had to get out but it was nowhere near as bad as the passages in the heads. For this I found that using a 1" PLASTIC putty knife worked great at cleaning the internal block walls. I would insert the putty knife between the sleeve and the block and there was just enough of a bend in it so that the sides of the knife would be forced to scrape the inner walls of the block perfectly. Eventually I could do an extended figure 8 (one extra loop for the bottom cylinder) running the knife around the block and just watch the crap falling out of the bottom. Used the orange sticks and a dive light to get any thing that was left behind.
In all the job probably took me 10 hours to complete. Granted, I've built up/rebuilt a lot of car motors this is the first outboard I've worked on so I was taking my time. When doing heads I always chase all threads w/ a roll tap (not a cutting tap!) to hone and clean them out, wire wheel all of the fasteners, clean up mating surfaces w/ some brand new razors, check the deck/hear/cover w/ straight edge and feeler gauges, just prior to mating all surfaces get a quick scrub w/ acetone, etc... Fasteners we're put in w/ marine grade (no copper) anti seize with Rectorseal tru blue+ on the top 4 threads in an attempt to keep salt water from getting in.
Sea trailed the boat today and had no issues w long runs at WOT. After about 40 mins I did get an alarm...to which I let out a deluge of words that would make a trucker blush...but when I popped the cowling to buzz out and see which over temp switch was shorted I saw the my oil tank was at the low mark. Hit the switch to manually pump some oil back up and back to WOT I went. I thought I had fixed the precision blend filling system but I guess not. Anywho, the over temping, on a sea trial of one, is no longer an issue. Whew....
Thanks!
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