corrosion inhibitor on new engine F200

[kriskris]

Hi everybody I am new to the boating and forum. I got new F200 4 stroke 4 cyl. I want tom keep it forever! I was told to spray yamashield all over the engine. I plan on taking off all the plastic covers before to get everywhere i can. What should not be sprayed with yamashield besides air filter intake? Is there anything else I should do. Also does your engine benefit from ring free if you use ethanol free gas exclusively?
Thanks. Kris

[robert graham]

A good automotive or marine type polish/wax works great on all the exposed exterior surfaces....a protective spray for the internal surfaces under the cowling....if you run in saltwater a freshwater wash down with a garden hose is great...don't get around your outboard with a pressure washer....try to keep your motor out of the sun when not in use...some of the modern polish/waxes contain a sunscreen especially for the upper cowling....I spray my tilt/trim motor, pump and rams with white lithium grease...works great to keep water off of it. Your motor is designed for the wet/marine environment and with just good care it'll stay looking like new for years!...good luck!

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Hi everybody I am new to the boating and forum. I got new F200 4 stroke 4 cyl. I want tom keep it forever! I was told to spray yamashield all over the engine. I plan on taking off all the plastic covers before to get everywhere i can. What should not be sprayed with yamashield besides air filter intake? Is there anything else I should do. Also does your engine benefit from ring free if you use ethanol free gas exclusively?
Thanks. Kris

Congrates!

I use a spray recommended by my Yamaha dealer under the cowl, LPS2;
http://www.lpslabs.com/product-details/561


Ringfree works great and I use it 100 % of the time BUT with ethonol free fuel. Its a cleaner, NOT fuel a stabilizer. Fuel, especially ethonol, can go bad in as quickly as a month. "Gas Shok" is an excellent fuel stabilizer for the marine envirmoent. Yamaha makes their own as well.

IMO, pay more for ethonol FREE fuel, its worth it in the long run and less likely to pick up moisture in the fuel tank.

And make sure you have at least a 10 micron fuel filter/water separator BEFORE the engine...

[timsullivan]

I do those things the guys above posted, and something else I do is take off the cowling and let the insides dry out for a while after each trip.

I have no corrosion on my 1999 60 Yammie.

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Something to watch and HIGHLY RECOMMENDED, Engine flushing (from Yamaha Corp);

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZJaTjMOEKP0

[kriskris]

Thanks Everybody. Yamashield on! Ring free in the tank with ethanol free gas!
kris

[rodbolt17]

I know Yamaha made that video.
however it wont work for 90% of the folks.
it wont work on the F150 at all on the muffs not most F200/225 motors.
I wont even attempt flush muffs alone on the F300/350 V8 motors.
the flusg bag works,kinda.
make sure the water level is at the cavitaion plate at a minimum.
on the F250 and up motors be aware that at engine start your going to lose most the water from the bag.
on most the F250 and up motors I use the muffs AND the onboard flush.
most the rest I simply run it on the on board flush at an idle only.
My personal F150 will overheat EVERY time on the muffs but never on the onboard flusher.

[TownsendsFJR1300]

I know Yamaha made that video.
however it wont work for 90% of the folks.
it wont work on the F150 at all on the muffs not most F200/225 motors.

My personal F150 will overheat EVERY time on the muffs but never on the onboard flusher.

When I come back in with my 06 F150 (brackish/salt water-depends on the tide), I run the hose initially thru the powerhead flusher for about 15 minutes (not running).

After that I put the engine on muffs and run it another 10-15 minutes, strictly on the muffs and have NEVER HAD an issue. I'll run from varying RPM's, generally keeping it at 900-1,000 RPM's. The alarms work fine and have NEVER ACTIVATED. Bought it new Jan 2007..

With that said, I do have 3/4 PVC piping and a 3/4" valve from the street to the dock and a larger diameter hose.

So, yes, the F150 can indeed be run on muffs, been doing it 7 years now.

Is it possible your water source isn't supplying enough water volumn?

[boscoe99]

Notice they removed the propeller in the video? This safety shit has been carried to the extreme. I am surprised they did not state to make sure safety vests were on at all times and with the kill switch lanyard attached. The owner' manuals are so full of rules of the road crap at the beginning that most get their eyes glazed over from reading crap, put the manual down forever, and never get to the essential part stuff.

I think there are too many variables to say that any one procedure will work for all motors at all times. Different hose sizes, different hose lengths, different water pressures from taps, different muffs, whatever.

Each needs to find what works for them. Some motors can be run on muffs until hell freezes over and some can't.

In the event muffs alone won't do the job well then another possibility is a Y fitting in the end of the hose pipe. One end of the Y connects to muffs. The other end to a short piece of garden hose that goes to the garden hose flush fitting. Short length of large diameter hose with good water pressure is needed of course.

Finally, a horse trough filled with water, with the lower unit in that trough at a depth such that the water pump is covered with water (three/four inches above the attach point) will do the trick every time for every motor.

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Notice they removed the propeller in the video? This safety shit has been carried to the extreme. I am surprised they did not state to make sure safety vests were on at all times and with the kill switch lanyard attached. The owner' manuals are so full of rules of the road crap at the beginning that most get their eyes glazed over from reading crap, put the manual down forever, and never get to the essential part stuff.

I think there are too many variables to say that any one procedure will work for all motors at all times. Different hose sizes, different hose lengths, different water pressures from taps, different muffs, whatever.

Each needs to find what works for them. Some motors can be run on muffs until hell freezes over and some can't.

In the event muffs alone won't do the job well then another possibility is a Y fitting in the end of the hose pipe. One end of the Y connects to muffs. The other end to a short piece of garden hose that goes to the garden hose flush fitting. Short length of large diameter hose with good water pressure is needed of course.
.

When I had the upper shaft seals replaced in my LU about 8 months ago, that set up(I bolded) is exactly what they used except they added shut off valves in-line.

This way they start the engine, EVERYTHING HAS WATER, then shut down to the powerhead, and see if the pump is pumping to the powerhead on its own (which is was). Its literally a win/win set up. The powerhead gets water, the WP is lubed(no doubt)..

And yes, the safty crap is way out of hand but there are folks out there that would do something stupid just to sue..