oil line hose fittings on intake manifold

[chapparal21]

Does anyone make these small fittings from stainless? I am constantly cleaning and repainting mine. Someday they will need replacing, afraid they may break off into block. 2002 200HP OX66 saltwater series.

[DennisG01]

I do not know a direct answer to your problem (other than to say that I don't have that issue with my '00 or my '97 250HP that I've recently acquired). BUT, I am a firm believer in the use of Boeshield as a spray protectant. I have used this for years on many different marine motors (and other stuff) and it just plain works. A couple times a season should be all you need. This was one of the first things I started doing with my "new to me" engines. Although the '97 is now in my garage as a spare.

Maybe a good place to start is to wash the engine down with something like Salt Away and get things fresh again - then just try to keep it that way (starting a regimen with something like Boeshield, too). That should cut down on corrosion immensely. Be sure to check areas that are supposed to have grease on them and re-grease, too.

[chapparal21]

The engine is out on a bracket. 2002 hydrasports 230 center console. The boat sits at an angle at rest with the weight so far back. The lower cowling is actually touching water while *****ing. The remote tilt switch had to be opened up and packed with die electric grease as it started running while *****ing to a down position. Even though mptor was all the way down, have a feeling that was why my upper tilt ram seals started leaking. I am going to reset engine out on bracket one set of holes at a time ,see if I can get her out of water while *****ing? They used some stainless as it is a saltwater series. These nipples are gonna be a problem in future I`m afraid . Very inaccessable to easy outs and tools for that matter. Just thought someone has come across this before. In the Keys and ery warm saltwater and iron don`t mix well. Ihave even tried correseal a product we use to coat rebar before we use it in davit bases. Have cracked open 30 years old concrete fence we put in and still no rust. even have rebar in storage 25 years since coating and no rust. The nipples just keep rusting. Thanks for the suggestions, Dennis

[DennisG01]

I've got mine on a bracket, too - an older 24' Grady. But it doesn't come anywhere near as low as you are talking about. Do you keep a lot of weight in the aft of the boat? Maybe you can move some forward - put heavy stuff in the bow and light in the rear?

The dielectric is a good idea - but maybe even better is waterproof trailer bearing grease. Try coating the nipples with that - that should hang around for a long, long time. I use Tef-Gel on electrical connections (I don't think there's anything better than that out there, but it's about $40 for a little jar). Maybe it can be used with similar results simply on the metal nipples?

But, I think the key is to start with things clean and keep up on reapplying whatever protectant you choose. PM is the major component to things living a long-life.

Before you move your engine, how far above the keel is the anti-ventilation plate currently?

[rodbolt17]

ever just thought about spraying EVERYTHING down with fluid film or boeshield t9 ?
makes it nasty to work on but it stops corrosion.

to help, quit chopping the throttle and submerging the motor.

[DennisG01]

ever just thought about spraying EVERYTHING down with fluid film or boeshield t9 ?
makes it nasty to work on but it stops corrosion.

Ah, yes, that lovely "waxy/greasy/sticky" feeling. And I have ABSOLUTELY no idea how this happens, but I end up with some grains of sand stuck on there once in a while! I think it's magic sand. But for how well it works, I'll deal with the stickiness - good stuff.

[chapparal21]

fuel tank

110 gallon fuel tank runs from livewell /pedestal seat to about 12 inches of transom, batteries are behind that. Not much I can do about those. The motor is that low to water a *****ing speed ,no throttle changes. The boat is all factory stock. The fuel sender is in the rear of tank and never reads right as boat is always at a bow high angle at rest or running. A couple inches of the lower unit still touches water at the dock. She comes out every time on davits though. I am not at boat now ,when I get back I`ll measure the cavitaion plate, pretty sure not much room to play with.
Thanks Guys

[rodbolt17]

when slowing down pay attention.
some hulls will tend to swamp the motors if you simply chop the throttles.

[chapparal21]

throttle

Rodbolt,
First thanks you for all your help. If we all had access to a tech locally such as you. Life would be much better. I have always been one to cut throttle let hull come down and before wake catches up with engine tap throttles just enough to stay ahead of wake. Just a curious design, motor out on factory "stainless marine" bracket and large fuel tank too far aft. Large stainless trim tabs, but they do little at *****ing speeds. Guess I have to live with what factory built? No weight up front, center console model . Lowest part of keel ,should be no lower than what part of my lower unit ?

[rodbolt17]

quite a few hulls that way.
I had a customer take me for a ride on his 26 Jupiter with twin z200's.
he chopped the throttles and I watched the back wave cover the tops of the engine hoods.
it solved the mystery of why those 6 month old motors looked so salty.
not much you can do other than periodically wash the motor and keep it sprayed with the nasty stuff.