Two of these boxes. One on each side of the trailer frame in between wheels. There is a connection problem with the brake (blue wires) or ground (white). Some current is getting through but not enough to lock the wheels at speed. Fairly confident the issue is with the Scotchlok connectors used to join these wires. I would like to replace the connections but there is not much room or extra wire length to work with. There are multiple three wire connections etc. Pulling new wire would be a blast as the wire runs through the frame and conduit all through the trailer.
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come on now,
surely pulling new wire using the other wire as a pull would be easy.
But I would cut strip and clean the wire and solder them together, or use wire nuts and tape/ seal them well to keep water out.
are you sure there is a problem with getting the full voltage to the breaks?
could the coil/magnets be the problem.
electric breaks are not as good as hydrolic brakes when it come to locking up wheels
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Originally posted by 99yam40 View Postcome on now,
surely pulling new wire using the other wire as a pull would be easy.
But I would cut strip and clean the wire and solder them together, or use wire nuts and tape/ seal them well to keep water out.
are you sure there is a problem with getting the full voltage to the breaks?
could the coil/magnets be the problem.
electric breaks are not as good as hydrolic brakes when it come to locking up wheels
I have a P3 con*****er that gives a current reading as part of a troubleshooting menu. I read that the amps should be 14-16 at full power. Getting about 8 according to con*****er.
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well then removing the blue connectors, cleaning the wires, and wrapping thewires together and soldering and then tape may be the next step if you do not want to use wire nuts.
do you have more that 2 wheels with brakes?
I put a termination box up front and then ran individual wires to each wheel.
no open connections by the wheels
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Originally posted by pstephens46 View Post4 wheels with brakes. I am thinking the wire nuts will be a good way to diagnose. At least I will have bare wire for testing. Then perhaps solder after it gets sorted
might disconnect one at a time and just use the brake contr0er to see how much current changes as you go.
maybe it will give you an idea how much each is pulling when hooked up.
if all pull the same curent, then checking voltage at each device.
use a long jumper wire back to battery to to see if there is a problem with the ground
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I think you got your answer. Those blue connectors are temporary rubbish used in the quick and easy aftermarket fitment of auto electrical accessories. You won't find them used anywhere else for good reason.
I would also look carefully at the guage of wire used if you are expecting those sort of currents. Your other source of present and future problems will be with the connection between the vehicle and trailer, don't know why there are not better "standards".
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