2003 F115TXRB Water Pump, Lower Seal replacement

[gtreanto]

its a slide hammer for the bearing housing. they have an attachment that pulls that collar. Looks like its not needed.. :-)

[gtreanto]

I dropped the lower end, was able to get the water pump off so I could pressure test. The pressure test showed both the upper drive shaft seal and the prop shaft seal were leaking. So how hard is it to replace the propeller shaft seals/ Worth trying or should I bring it to a Yamaha repair shop?

I did a search and see people get the seals out by driving drywall screws into the seals and pull them out. Anyone try it before?

[panasonic]

Can be done. I drill two 1/8" holes through the seal using a 6" long drill bit then use two good 90 degree picks to pull the seal out. Then repeat for the inner one. I seen fellows drive holes through the seals with a awl but that is to rough a method for me.

BUT caution... you have to be very careful not to nick or damage the prop shaft or seal housing.

Other than that, you have to have a good puller to pull the rear housing out and that may be very difficult on a 16 year old engine.

If you are not confident drilling holes at an angle, you can't get a straight shot at it, then bring it to someone who can pull the carrier assy.

Good luck.

[fairdeal]

as Panasonic says, if you use 'the hack method' to remove the seal,
you have to be work very carefully -
making sure not to scratch or score the prop shaft;

you can slide some suitable shim stock down to surround the shaft
and provide some protection

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Can be done. I drill two 1/8" holes through the seal using a 6" long drill bit then use two good 90 degree picks to pull the seal out. Then repeat for the inner one. I seen fellows drive holes through the seals with a awl but that is to rough a method for me.

BUT caution... you have to be very careful not to nick or damage the prop shaft or seal housing.

Other than that, you have to have a good puller to pull the rear housing out and that may be very difficult on a 16 year old engine.

If you are not confident drilling holes at an angle, you can't get a straight shot at it, then bring it to someone who can pull the carrier assy.

Good luck.

Just to add to the above, using a BOX WRENCH, around the drill bit (and the correct angle with the drill) helps a bunch keeping the drill bit from nicking the shaft.

There's a bunch of "You Tubes" on how to do it.

I haven't done it, but wouldn't hesitate to...

[panasonic]

as Panasonic says, if you use 'the hack method' to remove the seal,
you have to be work very carefully -
making sure not to scratch or score the prop shaft;

you can slide some suitable shim stock down to surround the shaft
and provide some protection

Great idea Fairdeal using the shim stock to protect the shaft...never thought of that before. Notice the corrosion on the seal edge in the picture.

[gtreanto]

Thanks for the comments. I'll take this on after all your great comments. Will let you know how I make out.

[pstephens46]

Thanks for the comments. I'll take this on after all your great comments. Will let you know how I make out.

There is a Dangar Marine video on this topic
on YouTube if you wish to proceed.

Rodbolt would be cussing all of us at this point.

[gtreanto]

There is a Dangar Marine video on this topic
on YouTube if you wish to proceed.

Rodbolt would be cussing all of us at this point.

Thanks for the Dangar Marine reference. I'll go with Dangar's steps after watching their video.

[99yam40]

if you do damage the prop shaft then the seals will not seal .
shaft will need to be replaced.

removing the shaft/carrier is the right way to do it.
when you pay to have something done, it should be done correctly.

once you get it apart and all cleaned up, it is easy to remove again before all of the corrosion sets back in.
there are o rings that can leak also.

[gtreanto]

Well I whimped out and brought the lower end to have the prop seals replaced. I will try it on the starboard engine. in the fall after the season is over.

[gtreanto]

I got the lower unit back yesterday. As expected the nut was seized after being in the water for 16 years. Took the technician 3 hours to remove and replace the seals by the book. The lower end passed the pressure test. I finished putting the new impeller and all associated parts on without issue. Installed the lower end on the motor. Ran the motor for a bit checking forward, reverse and neutral. Good to go. Thanks ev everyone for all the comments.

I'll do the starboard ending after the boating season ends this year. I figure if the port engine ran into this the starboard is not far behind.

[gtreanto]

Took the boat out on the 4th. The repaired port engine ran like a champ. The starboard engine must have been jealous and the impeller failed after a short bit of running. We just putted around the Merrimack River. on the port engine. So my plan of waiting till the fall to do the starboard engine got pushed to this week. I brought the lower end to the Baert Marine in Middleton MA today and doing a proactive propshaft seal replacement.. On the upside I feel comfortable dropping lower ends now, and doing the full water pump kit. I find the hardest part of this job is removing the woodruff key. Thanks again for all the great comments.

[gtreanto]

I brought the starboard lower end in to have the prop seal replaced. The shaft carrier was effectively welded to the outer casing and was cracked during removal. Nothing that the more experienced have seen here. I ended up buying a new lower end per the service managers suggestion.

Moral of the story - on a 16 year old engine that has lived in salt water wait till the end of season to do the prop shaft seal if they are not leaking. If they are leaking, take a chance and use the hack method to replace the seals..

[BaffinBay]

Have a look at Marine Tech Tools. They have a slide hammer and attachment for this sleeve and the bearing housing. $197.