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2003 F115TXRB Water Pump, Lower Seal replacement

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  • 2003 F115TXRB Water Pump, Lower Seal replacement

    In the fall when I was winterizing the boat I noticed water in lower end. I am about to tackle waterpump and seal replacement. Any suggestions, gotcha's etc before I dive into this project? First time I have ever done this and probably the first time this has been done on the engine. Thanks

  • #2
    The driveshaft seals - under the water pump -
    aren't tough, since they sit in a housing which is fairly easily removed.

    The shift shaft seal even easier.

    the propshaft seals are another story -
    pulling the propshaft housing/bearing carrier is non-trivial after 16 years.

    If you aren't already, you might consider 'the hack method' for those;
    it requires great care and some finesse,
    but not the fire and big tools of 'the right way'.

    Comment


    • #3
      A lower unit pressure test could identify which seals are leaking....maybe it's the easier ones mentioned by Fairdeal and you could avoid the prop shaft seals since they're no so easy...might save you the trouble...

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      • #4
        Thanks for the replies. I do the upper end and see how they look and if it turns out to be the prop shaft seals I'll hand that off to the experts. On youtube there is a video of the replacement. The tools company shows a slide hammer they sell to remove the collar under the upper water pump housing and it pulls the bearing housing. Is it worth the 200.00 or not? I have two engines. Doing the leaky port side now and will do the non leaking starboard in the fall.

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        • #5
          you could pressure test the lower unit after draining to see what needs to be done.
          did you pull the prop and check for fishing line?

          there are o rings on some parts and gaskets on the drain and level screws that could leak also.

          saltwater motors that have not been taken apart for many years can get hard to take apart.

          slide-hammers help some times on different parts.

          what is the cost of the upper seal housings, in case you destroy them when taking them out?
          that may have a bering on if $200 on the tool is worth it


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          • #6
            Pressure testing is something I will do. I have not checked for fishing line. I will check it. Two years ago the lower end did not show any water. Last year I saw the signs of water. What pressure do you run, 20 psi ?

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            • #7
              Originally posted by gtreanto View Post
              The tools company shows a slide hammer they sell to remove the collar under the upper water pump housing and it pulls the bearing housing. Is it worth the 200.00 or not?
              IMO, special tool not needed.
              grab it with a big pair of channel locks,
              twist back & forth while working it up

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              • #8
                Sounds like you are in need of a service manual.
                On my C40TLRX it is 14 psi , I have no idea on your motor.
                careful, you do not want to push seals out of place

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                • #9
                  2003 f115 sm:



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                  • #10
                    Well that procedure does not say anything about draining the lower unit, so does that mean you test it full?

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                    • #11
                      how about removing the bearing housing under the water pump?

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                      • #12
                        Originally posted by gtreanto View Post
                        how about removing the bearing housing under the water pump?
                        That's what post #7 was referring to.

                        Remove the 4 bolts, they'll be a squareish block with one seal showing(another seal under that one). There's an o-ring that seals the "block" to the case.

                        Twisting the block will break the corrosion bond loose...

                        That block comes out, pop the old seals out, new ones in, clean up, replace o-ring, clean up, re-assemble..


                        And ALL pressure testing is done with an EMPTY lower unit-NO OIL...
                        Scott
                        1997 Angler 204, Center Console powered by a 2006 Yamaha F150TXR

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                        • #13
                          Originally posted by gtreanto View Post
                          how about removing the bearing housing under the water pump?
                          why remove it unless those seals are what is leaking?

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                          • #14
                            Originally posted by TownsendsFJR1300 View Post

                            That's what post #7 was referring to.

                            Remove the 4 bolts, they'll be a squareish block with one seal showing(another seal under that one). There's an o-ring that seals the "block" to the case.

                            Twisting the block will break the corrosion bond loose...

                            That block comes out, pop the old seals out, new ones in, clean up, replace o-ring, clean up, re-assemble..


                            And ALL pressure testing is done with an EMPTY lower unit-NO OIL...
                            I thought that referenced the collar I wrote about in post 4

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                            • #15
                              Originally posted by gtreanto View Post
                              I thought that referenced the collar I wrote about in post 4
                              this "collar" ? someone sells a "slide hammer" to remove it?



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