In the fall when I was winterizing the boat I noticed water in lower end. I am about to tackle waterpump and seal replacement. Any suggestions, gotcha's etc before I dive into this project? First time I have ever done this and probably the first time this has been done on the engine. Thanks
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2003 F115TXRB Water Pump, Lower Seal replacement
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The driveshaft seals - under the water pump -
aren't tough, since they sit in a housing which is fairly easily removed.
The shift shaft seal even easier.
the propshaft seals are another story -
pulling the propshaft housing/bearing carrier is non-trivial after 16 years.
If you aren't already, you might consider 'the hack method' for those;
it requires great care and some finesse,
but not the fire and big tools of 'the right way'.
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Thanks for the replies. I do the upper end and see how they look and if it turns out to be the prop shaft seals I'll hand that off to the experts. On youtube there is a video of the replacement. The tools company shows a slide hammer they sell to remove the collar under the upper water pump housing and it pulls the bearing housing. Is it worth the 200.00 or not? I have two engines. Doing the leaky port side now and will do the non leaking starboard in the fall.
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you could pressure test the lower unit after draining to see what needs to be done.
did you pull the prop and check for fishing line?
there are o rings on some parts and gaskets on the drain and level screws that could leak also.
saltwater motors that have not been taken apart for many years can get hard to take apart.
slide-hammers help some times on different parts.
what is the cost of the upper seal housings, in case you destroy them when taking them out?
that may have a bering on if $200 on the tool is worth it
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Originally posted by gtreanto View PostThe tools company shows a slide hammer they sell to remove the collar under the upper water pump housing and it pulls the bearing housing. Is it worth the 200.00 or not?
grab it with a big pair of channel locks,
twist back & forth while working it up
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Originally posted by gtreanto View Posthow about removing the bearing housing under the water pump?
Remove the 4 bolts, they'll be a squareish block with one seal showing(another seal under that one). There's an o-ring that seals the "block" to the case.
Twisting the block will break the corrosion bond loose...
That block comes out, pop the old seals out, new ones in, clean up, replace o-ring, clean up, re-assemble..
And ALL pressure testing is done with an EMPTY lower unit-NO OIL...Scott
1997 Angler 204, Center Console powered by a 2006 Yamaha F150TXR
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Originally posted by TownsendsFJR1300 View Post
That's what post #7 was referring to.
Remove the 4 bolts, they'll be a squareish block with one seal showing(another seal under that one). There's an o-ring that seals the "block" to the case.
Twisting the block will break the corrosion bond loose...
That block comes out, pop the old seals out, new ones in, clean up, replace o-ring, clean up, re-assemble..
And ALL pressure testing is done with an EMPTY lower unit-NO OIL...
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