Automatic oil transfer (cdi?)

[Ratherbfishin]

I’m new on here and really need help with my oil not transferring I have a 2001 150txrz I’ve checked the trim sensor for continuity , pump, filter, everything is okay. I put a new float switch in the tank on the motor and the oil will pump with the manual override switch but not automatically

[99yam40]

do you have gauges and what are they telling you?

from what I have read, if the remote tank is low on oil, or the system thinks it is low, the pump will not transfer automatically but will with the manual switch

[boscoe99]

On a 2001 Yam the trim switch has nothing whatsoever to do with the automatic oil transfer system.

We know that the pump works, we know that the pump is getting electrical power and we know that the ground wire to the pump works. Good information.

What we don't know is if the CDI is getting its ground from the remote tank oil sensor? How about it?

And as 99yam asks, what are your gauges saying about the oil status system?

[boscoe99]

[Ratherbfishin]

Thank y’all I don’t not have a gauge for oil and I checked continuity that’s what you were talking about right? That ground wire is good going to the CDI from the remote tank I checked the continuity from the negative battery terminal to the blue wire at the remote tank while pulling the float switch on the motor up slowly with the key on and never got anything

[boscoe99]

Thank y’all I don’t not have a gauge for oil and I checked continuity that’s what you were talking about right? That ground wire is good going to the CDI from the remote tank I checked the continuity from the negative battery terminal to the blue wire at the remote tank while pulling the float switch on the motor up slowly with the key on and never got anything

Are you saying that you have a good ground from the block, to the remote tank sensor, and back to the CDI? I think so but...

Now how about the circuitry from the main oil tank sensor that tells the CDI to turn on the pump? Is that circuitry good? That is, is the CDI being grounded by the middle switch in the sensor assembly?

Does the blue wire from the CDI to the manual transfer switch have good continuity?

[Ratherbfishin]

How do I check the middle switch on the main tank just move the float to the middle? What color wire is ground on the main oil tank switch?

[ausnoelm]

Get a service manual, or do a search on here for dozens of diagrams and trouble shooting guides, it's a very simple system, but you need to understand what goes on, guessing and hoping will see you going in circles for days.

[boscoe99]

[Ratherbfishin]

I got a service manual and finally had time and checked all of that and everything looks good it’s looking like it’s going to be the CDI is there anything else to check? and I really appreciate all the help boscoe99

[boscoe99]

The CDI is the least likely component to be at fault. I would hate for you to have a surplus CDI as a spare part.

As a double check here are some things that I would verify before buying a CDI:

1. All three switches in the main oil tank sensor are working correctly. Check continuity from the black wire at the CDI connector through the L/W, L/G and L/R wires. When any one switch is closed the other two switches should be open. None of the three coloured wires should have continuity to any other coloured wire.

2. The yellow wire at the CDI connector has good battery voltage when the key is in the on position.

3. The G/B wire at the CDI connector has a good ground when the remote oil tank float is up and no ground when the float is down.

4. The blue wire at the CDI connector has good continuity all the way to the pump.

5. Inspect all of the CDI pins to ensure they are clean and free of any corrosion or other contaminates that might result in poor connectivity.

6. Inspect all of the connectors in the harness that runs from the motor to the remote oil tank.

7. Anything else that I cannot think of at the moment.

Oh, when I mention doing a continuity test I don't mean an ohms test.

[99yam40]

Oh, when I mention doing a continuity test I don't mean an ohms test.

you might need to explain that a little more.
I am a little confused ,
always thought that low Ohm reading meant good continuity

[boscoe99]

you might need to explain that a little more.
I am a little confused ,
always thought that low Ohm reading meant good continuity

Darn good comments. I suppose the short answer is that if checking for ohms use the ohms/resistance setting and if checking for continuity use the continuity setting. Just to be on the safe side. Like when checking two stroke compression, always have the throttle wide open. In 9 out of 10 motors it might not matter but on the 10th motor it might. It can never hurt the compression check to have the throttle wide open.

A switch or wire could have a lot of resistance but if no value is given by the motor maker then someone could interpret high ohms as continuity. When in fact the circuit might not work well with high resistance.

It is my understanding that the continuity setting applies a greater voltage through the circuit. Simulating perhaps a voltage drop test on a loaded circuit. Just a better test. I suspect that an even better test would be to pass X current through a circuit and test for voltage drop, but almost no one does that. It does have to be done is some rare instances.

[panasonic]

Darn good comments. I suppose the short answer is that if checking for ohms use the ohms/resistance setting and if checking for continuity use the continuity setting. Just to be on the safe side. Like when checking two stroke compression, always have the throttle wide open. In 9 out of 10 motors it might not matter but on the 10th motor it might. It can never hurt the compression check to have the throttle wide open.

A switch or wire could have a lot of resistance but if no value is given by the motor maker then someone could interpret high ohms as continuity. When in fact the circuit might not work well with high resistance.

It is my understanding that the continuity setting applies a greater voltage through the circuit. Simulating perhaps a voltage drop test on a loaded circuit. Just a better test. I suspect that an even better test would be to pass X current through a circuit and test for voltage drop, but almost no one does that. It does have to be done is some rare instances.

Learned something new today...thanks

https://www.fluke.com/en-ca/learn/be...tal-multimeter

[ausnoelm]

The fault you are describing is almost always bad/broken/corroded wiring or ground. Continuity is kind of the same as a resistance test (commonly called ohming out) but, the meter simply is a yes/no result, whereas a true resistance measurement gives a result in Ohms, if doing resistance measurements, the expected result should be known, or the indication means nothing.