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With motor warmed up. There is a vertical screw on the bottom carb, I believe pn #16. Turn counter clockwise to reduce idle speed. Do this when motor is up to operating temp.
You're getting there.
Forget the sorry repair job and concentrate and reply to the instructions that I have tried to provide.
DID YOU FIND THE IDLE SCREW AND BACK IT OUT TO REDUCE IDLE SPEED AS I POSTED??? YES OR NO>
Simple.
Answer these questions honestly.
The FP on the left was supposedly removed on you motor. On the right you show a new FP. You said you replaced the FP in May this year. Where did this FP on the right come from?
Frankly I have a hard time believing this shop refused to honor their work with fuel pouring out of the breather unless you approached them with an attitude. (Honestly?)
I'm Trying to help but help me help you.
Last edited by mygrady1; 07-24-2014, 02:41 PM.
Reason: addition
had a rough day had to take the wife to wound care she is going to have her 3rd surgery since feb so no boat work today, I did find that screw, back to fp, the right fp is old and bad, the left was given to me as what came off the boat at repair, I did not give them lip, but after working on it the first trip I was charged 380, took it home and it would not run right, took it back and was charged 150 more, took it home it wouldn't pull away from trailer, took it back and met at lake where the met me and tinkered with it, it ran ok but only at wot, missed at idle, so 3 strikes and your out
OK. Did backing out on the idle screw change your idle speed.
Sounds like your plate is full right now. Sorry for your wife's problems. Been there.
Your bottom carb was flooding out so it would run at high rpm but not at idle.
Did you manage to reduce your RPM at idle with adjusting the screw? Once done, you should be OK.
The only other adj would be the carb air adjustment needle which my book does not cover. Start a new thread asking for this setting for your model#
Last edited by mygrady1; 07-24-2014, 04:52 PM.
Reason: addition
checked the air screws each was at a diff setting from 5/8 to 2 turns, each was set to 5/8 app. then started boat on hose let it run til warmer up, then backed the idle screw off til motor was running between 750-800 rpms. It ran very well, I will lake test next. Thanks for all the help!
Honestly, That shop probably did rebuild the carbs and replace the FP so you spent money that you needed to spend but the float was ****ed up.
Now all should be good with no extra bucks spent.
Let me know how she runs.
At least you know where not to take your motor next. Really the older 2 strokes are pretty simple to work on.
Good luck and my best for your wife's improvement
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