Oil level switch on two stroke

[bigdummy]

I am in possession of a 2005 carbureted 200 stroke that the previous owner ":disconnected" the oil injection. Everything on the oil injection system looks intact with the exception of the oil level switch for the oil tank located under the cowling.

I have at my disposal, a 2001 carbureted 130 2 stroke. When I look up the part numbers the switch part numbers have different pre-fixes, but the main body of part numbers is the same.

Are these two interchangeable? This is only for a test to see if the system is pumping. If the injection system works I want to continue to use the oil injection instead of pre-mixing.

Thanks to all for sharing their knowledge and wisdom

[boscoe99]

I am presuming that you are talking about the oil tank sensor assembly (comprised of three switches) that goes into the main oil tank and which also serves as a cap for the tank.

They are not interchangeable.

But for test purposes they should be functionally the same. Assumes that the connectors are compatible.

Give me the complete model of the motor and I can check further. Also, the pre fix for the 130 oil tank sensor assembly.

[bigdummy]

Boscoe,
The 200 model number is 200ETXD
Part number for the 130 (on this website parts list) switch assembly is 6G7-85730-03-00

Thank You

[boscoe99]

200ETXD is a 1990 model year motor. They reused the D in 2005. I suspect this mislead you.

Looks to me like the electrical connections on the two sensor types are different.

[bigdummy]

Not sure that I would go this route, but if I decided to "cut and splice"- are wire colors the same and functions? Or would I simply be making a mess that might end up with two unusable parts/wiring harnesses

Thanks

[boscoe99]

For test purposes you can manipulate the system. Ground the appropriate wires to fool the CDI into thinking that the sensor is attached and that there is oil in the tank.

With the CDI thinking that the top switch is grounded the motor should run normally.

With the CDI thinking that the middle switch is grounded the remote oil tank pump should begin to run and transfer oil to the main oil tank. \

With the CDI thinking that the bottom switch is grounded the alarm system should sound.

[bigdummy]

Thanks Boscoe, I will try this

[FabricGATOR]

Not sure that I would go this route, but if I decided to "cut and splice"- are wire colors the same and functions? Or would I simply be making a mess that might end up with two unusable parts/wiring harnesses

Thanks

I can un-pin the connectors and swap the plastic plug parts... I bet you can learn how to 'pick the lock' yourself. This way you can restore the connector if you choose to go another route. Also, if done right, you retain the water/corrosion resistance of the wire harness and the watertight electrical connector. (Plus, this type of repair is so much more civilized and professional than duct tape and silly putty)

Maybe practice on another inconsequential connector on the 'donor' patient (engine)

Hurts me to say this but: Smash a plastic connector that you never intend to reuse, pick one that there are many because after you learn this you are going to be 'Yamaha connector man'

But smash one so you can see how they are held together. Then using a paperclip or some other small piece of 'lock pick' figure out how to remove the plastic locking retainer (inside yellow?) and then insert the paperclip to push open the lock. Then you should be able to pull the wire and terminal out of the connector from the back.

Please return and tell how this goes and any tricks you may have to share.
Cheers!

[bigdummy]

Fabricgator- I have quickly realized Yamaha engineers are an evil bunch with some of the connections they've created- thye certainly aren't going to unplug from mere vibration!

I have now created a larger problem for myself, Decided to do some "preventative maintenance' since I have no history on this motor. While changing (attempting to change) thermostats one of the bolt heads wrung off. I didn't think I was using excessive force- evidently I was. I had even soak it with penetrating fluid for a few hours.

I was able to remove the housing and about 1/2" of the bolt was sticking out. I kept spraying this with penetrating fluid since Sunday through today. This evening I used a propane torch to heat the aluminum around the bolt, put vice grips on the bolt and it moved. Turn it back just a touch (hardly any effort needed) and it seemed free- and it was- ALMOST. The bolt has now wrung off (looks more like corroded off by the discoloration in the bolt) at the junction of the smooth shank and the threads, leaving ALL the threads seized inside the head.

I have two thoughts and would appreciate some feedback..

First- the cheaters route. Since the water jacket is a pass-through channel for the bolt: Could I simply tap threads into this and use whatever size bolt will fit? Doesn't seem like there would be a lot of pressure at the thermostat, but I must wonder why the original design has the threads so deep into the head

Second- the more costly and time consuming. Thinking of buying a drill bushing that will fit inside the pass-thru channel to get a hole centered into the seized threads. If I did this , what size drill bit would you start with? My thoughts is if I have a precise drill bushing and "know" I'm centered I could use a fairly large bit for the first pass, then use a left hand drill bit in hopes of getting the threads out. Follow this up with a thread restorer.

Thanks to everyone for the guidance and quality advice that is shared on this site

[panasonic]

Could you post a picture of the broken bolt ...a close up and a overview of the area?

Is it a 6mm bolt (shank size)?

[bigdummy]

Tstat.jpg Yes 6 mm shank size.
I think I got the picture attached

[bigdummy]

Also, this is not the location of the problem- this picture is for reference of what I am trying to describe.
Actual problem is the diagonal location lower, inside hole passage) of the thermostat housing. . Housing thickness looks to be the same and all bolts are the same length.

[panasonic]

I understand that you have the bolt broke off where the threads meet the shank. I wanted to see exactly where it is, is it broke off flush, under flush, on a angle...ect Can you get a staight shot at it will a drill?

Please take another picture with the actual bolt.

[boscoe99]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dJfkCj3FWBs

[bigdummy]

Panasonic- bolt broke off :"rough". Doesn't appear to have a flat spot to drill easily. I will track down the broken bolt shank and post a picture. Thinking I might be able to "punch" a flat spot to drill on

Boscoe- Thanks for the video link. Prior to watching I had ordered some items that I :think" might get this out. My thought process seems to mimic the techniques he uses.

I ordered a drill guide bushing with a 1/4" OD x 1/2" depth and a pilot hole for an 1/8" bit. I think (hope) the bushing will fit snugly in the water jacket smooth passage and allow a straight drill bit approach.
I also ordered the drill bit in cobalt and left hand thread. I also ordered a 3/16" left hand drill bit along with a 6 mm end tap to clean and chase threads.

Before I attempt this I would appreciate any and all thoughts, feedback and any story of similar failed attempts before I create a bigger problem