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Hello all. New to the forum here. I have a 2001 F25 outboard. It was a manual start and tiller that I converted to electric start and remote control. My question is about the rectifier regulator. It does not seem to be charging the battery. I have it running to the battery with a straight run and an inline fuse. My voltmeter shows no increase in voltage when I'm running the motor. I disconnected the red wire from the regulator and used a multimeter there to take a reading. It shows 15 volts from that point when the motor is running. I tested the wire I have at the battery, and it's 15 volts as well. My battery was dead to the point that it wouldn't start the motor and was reading 11.9 volts. It's a small boat and a small PWC battery. It's all I have room for, but when it's charged it has plenty of power for a lot of starts. If it's not 12-13 it won't turn it when cold. When I reconnect the regulator to the battery, all of my readings go down to 11.9 volts. It never rises from there. I may have it connected wrong. There are 2 red wires coming from the regulator. One seems tapped out at 7 volts. Don't know if I should have it connected somewhere or if it's for a 6 bolt system if you were set up that way. The way I see it, the darn thing should be charging, but maybe it's tripping the regulator when I connect it to a power source. Please let me know if you have any advice. Thanks.
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Did you replace the stator?
Did you install a genuine Yamaha rectifier/regulator?
The wiring diagram shows the R/R as having two black wires, one red wire and two yellow wires. -
Hello. I didn't get an email that someone had replied. Glad I checked. No, I didn't replace the stator. I wouldn't think I had a bad stator if the motor runs fine, and the voltages are present. The regulator is aftermarket. It's a CDI replacement for 65W-81960-00-00. It has 2 yellow wires (don't think it matters the order these are connected?) , 2 red wires (one female, and one male) one black wire with a ring to ground, and one grey wire for the tach. The tach doesn't work either. It shows a pulse with my multimeter, but the tach needle doesn't move. That's a different issue though. Maybe I need a different kind of tach. Maybe this signal is incompatible. Maybe the tach I bought used is bad. I don't know. I was going to research that later. I thought I'd throw that in there though since it might be of use. I just mostly want the thing to charge so I don't have to do an emergency pullstart again in the water. I should correct myself to avoid confusion. The motor is a 2002. It has a build date of 2001. I just remembered this after searching some parts and not finding an MSHA in the 2001 models. I'm thinking it might be the crappy regulator. I just wish I knew before spending $170 on a new one. The weird thing is that it shows plenty of voltage when it's not connected to that battery. Thanks.Comment
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The reason that I brought up the stator is because an F25MSHA (no rectifier/regulator) is shown to use one part number stator whereas an F25ESHA (with rectifier/regulator) is shown to use a different part number.
So, I was guessing that maybe you don't have the correct stator installed. But, if you have wires coming from it that connect to a R/R then maybe that is not the issue.
Have you checked the output of the stator to verify that it is correct?
I don't have any knowledge of a CDI brand R/R.
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This from CDI
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I will definitely be testing that tomorrow in the morning. Unfortunately Step 1 sounds like my issue. I'm usually pretty darn good at finding info online, but this one has been a pain. Thanks for your help. My only other question is if both those hot wires need to be hooked up to the battery.Comment
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hope you noticed that they are saying to use a DVA adapter with your meter when taking voltage readingsComment
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Here are the Yam specs for your motor with a Yam R/R installed. Use it for whatever it is worth.
If you have correct input voltage from the lighting coil to the R/R but there is no or insufficient output from the R/R then the usual general conclusion is that the R/R is kaput.
Also attached is an illustration showing the wire connections of a Yam lighting coil to a Yam R/R.
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Well, all this talk about the voltages having to be within 1.5 of eachother got me thinking about if both the battery charge wires needed to be connected. When I hooked the R/R up, I don't remember if it came with a wiring diagram. That was 2 years ago. This has been a long project building "the most expensive dinghy in the world". I'm pretty sure it did since I knew the tach was the grey wire. I think I remember seeing +12V out on both red wires. I figured that one was optional for a second battery, or to run accessory. I just connected the wire that was female since it was convenient to how I wired the boat. After looking long and hard on how to build a DVA, and realizing I'd need to go to a Radio Shack since I had everything but a capacitor, I decided to test it with my digital multimeter set on peak to just see if there's a variance between the outputs, and then the inputs. I wasn't going to look for proper values, but was assuming I could gather enough info if say, one output was 18V and the other was 6V. I made a Y splitter to connect both batt charge wires to the system, connected ye ol' simulated lake o' garden hose, and fired it up. I checked the voltage at the Y splitter and voila! I had 14V and some. I thought to myself that I had trickle charged the battery to max, so maybe the thing is just reading a high battery voltage from that, so I kept an eye on the installed voltmeter in the console, crossed my fingers and killed the engine. Wouldn't you know, the voltmeter dropped to 12.5. My boat is charging! All I have to do is fashion a waterproof Y connection for the battery output wires to the single wire I ran from the battery. I was thinking the output was split, but it's looking like it's bridged internally to the R/R. Thanks for all your help, man. Your information was very helpful. Although I feel a little bad that you gave so much, and I used so little, it was like a scattering of clues that did bring me to a conclusion like in the CDI instructions "have all of the wires connected" to test the bastard. Also, someone could stumble across this, or the next guy with this problem you help, you can ask them "Are all of the wires connected?" Plus, it's a boat. I'm sure it'll break down and I'll need to revisit this thread again. Sorry about the long post, but I'm pretty damn excited that this is fixed and it didn't cost a dime. Converting the motor to electric everything was costly enough. Thanks again.Comment
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Glad you got it fixed.
I have learned from so many along my path through this world. I give back if and when I can.
You can do the same.
Copy and save any images if you feel the need for them. I don't leave them up for long.
Here is a link to CDI's website if you want to read more about their stuff, testing, etc.
Technical Support | CDI ElectronicsComment
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