94 pro 60 choke problem

[boscoe99]

if it prime start heater was just not connected electrically, then it would fire up fine cold, but would run too rich after warm up.
I still want to know if it is really in the normal position when not starting

Exactly right.

[ausnoelm]

Why can't people simply answer questions rather than side stepping? it's pretty easy to tell us what is actually going on, no YouTube videos needed, just an answer.

[pstephens46]

Have you seen the series where he buys a steel trawler and is in the process of reconditioning it? What a pain. What a lot of work. Poor fellow.

He probably needs some sort of intervention. Maybe you should head over and check on him. Reminds me of the guy with the ‘82 Ford Fairmont in the backyard. “gonna restore it”

[Ncpoteet1]

I turn the lever to the emergency to start it, when started I turn it back to norm and yes it is a pain in the ass to take the cover off the motor to cold start it every time. It will never start cold if I leave the lever on norm but once started once I am good to leave it on norm the rest of the day and it will start right up and purr like a kitten.

[FabricGATOR]

Perhaps you can find the wiring schematic somewhere *hint hint and then chase the wires forward.

If you are handy with a multimeter or continuity test light, you can do it without the schematic, it just makes it easier.

So, there is a wire connected to that start prime solenoid? follow along to where it is connected (or supposed to be connected) it should lead you into the main harness and likely through the multi pin connector under the cowling. If you are up to it and have the tool, try to figure out what pin on the multi socko it is, or perhaps another connector of sorts. (i am flying blind here but the theory is similar I don't care if it is a 1986 Johnny Rude outboard) ~[I loved that 86' Evinrude 70hp, someday i'll tell the story about how I fixed it with a golf ball]~

After you find what pin it is (note wire color code if seen) then check where your wire harness breaks out near the key. It should be either a similar socko plug connector (same pin) or possibly the harness breaks out to screw on ring terminals or similar.

The goal here is to find out why, where, or how to get a push of a button spark of 12 volt back to that prime solenoid without having to lift the cowling 1st thing in the morning.

So, if you got all the way up to the helm and have a solid electrical connection, all you may want to do is find a hot 12 volt supply (I would prefer 'hot when key on', so try to find a key switched power source) and fanagle a way to connect a button to the harness.

It may be easy enough to get a key switch that has the 'push to prime' feature and connect it like 98% of the other vessels or just a suitable water resistant push button or moment switch (spring loaded to off position) I would use a fuse between the power supply and the button to protect everything, likely about 5 amp should be ok. (fuse rating is determined by the smallest gauge wire in the circuit)

Possibly the Yamaha corporation will bless us with a wire diagram, it could happen...

Let us know what you find, how it is going and how easy (or frustrating) it was to restore the little things in life that mean so much when we don't have them.
Cheers!

*Actually, before you get too far into it, you may want to try to hot wire the solenoid to see if that thing is even a working part. If it has one wire, then the chassis of the solenoid is grounded and all you need is a spark of 12V to trigger it. If it has two wires, one is going to be (+) and the other (-) and it may not matter which is which. The color black is commonly (-) if that helps. (man I can be long winded...) You may want to use a fuse in your hotwire test whip for the fun of it.

[99yam40]

good lord why are you still harping on electrical connections, do you not understand what the prime start system is and how it works?
seems to me we have gone over it enough in this thread.

op, I just was asking if you turned the lever fully in the counter clockwise direction to get to the normal position.

just making sure what position it is left in for cold start.

If it is in the proper position, then you have passages plugged not letting fuel in

[rodbolt17]

wow
the lack of general understanding of a simple system is killing me.

let's see what I can do.
you can break this prime start into 3 basic systems.
fuel supply.
the electro-thermal valve.
the control valve.
at rest,cold,control valve in the normal position.
electro-thermal valve needle will be fully RETRACTED.
valve in normal position.
when cranking/running the system uses a fuel pump,diaphram pulse type, to supply fuel to the device from the center carb fuel bowl.
now fuel flows from #2 carb through a hose to a passage in the intake that distributes fuel for cold starting to the other intake passages.the electro-thermal valve is grounded to the block on the black wire and takes power off the green stator lighting coil wire.
as the wax pellet heats up the needle extends CLOSING off the fuel allowed through the prime start passages.

now a failure,needle wont retract, that is when the control valve would be rotated to BYPASS the electro-thermal valve and supply fuel to the intake directly.
once warm the valve would have to be rest to the normal or off position or it may not idle because the fuel mix would be rich.

failure 2,needle wont EXTEND.
cold motor would start normally but as it warmed up would be very rich and possibly wont idle. cure to get home would be to turn the control valve to the off or closed position that will shut off fuel to the device.

[Ncpoteet1]

wow thanks for all the help. i think with your guys help i can get this figured out. it has not worked since i bought the boat and i remember the previous owner said he had upgraded the motor from a 30hp to a 60hp i'm wonder in the wiring for they key box was never hooked up correctly ?

[Ncpoteet1]

i think a will buy the service manual for the motor you guys think that would be worth while ?

[FabricGATOR]

wow thanks for all the help. i think with your guys help i can get this figured out. it has not worked since i bought the boat and i remember the previous owner said he had upgraded the motor from a 30hp to a 60hp i'm wonder in the wiring for they key box was never hooked up correctly ?

No, I am wrong, wrong, wrong, (open hand hitting self in the side of the head) .... I apologize for confusing the issue. I though I knew what system I was talking about .... and I was wrong.
Better to be thought a fool.... then to open one's mouth and remove all doubt!

Disregard everything I wrote and follow these other guys.
I'll duct tape a pair of mittens on my hands and return to the corner while wearing my pointy hat....

[99yam40]

wow thanks for all the help. i think with your guys help i can get this figured out. it has not worked since i bought the boat and i remember the previous owner said he had upgraded the motor from a 30hp to a 60hp i'm wonder in the wiring for they key box was never hooked up correctly ?

I see no way to turn a 30HP motor to a 60hp, so there is no telling what motor you have.

or are you saying he swapped motors, replaced the 30 with a 60.

yes it is always good to have the proper service manual for your motor

[Ncpoteet1]

they had a whole new motor put on. they said the 30hp was under powered so they went back to the dealer and had a 60hp put on, this happend in the late 90s

[99yam40]

are you sure it is left in the normal position?
which direction do you turn the red lever when putting it into the on position?
CW or CCW


maybe give us your normal starting procedure

[boscoe99]

[99yam40]

I flip the lever up and once it's started I put it back to level or norm

this is why I am trying to be sure what position it is left in.
to me it sounds like he keeps it in off and then flips it up to the on position and then back down