Outboard operating temp range, cooling sea water?

[FabricGATOR]

While I know the thermostat is 50 deg C (122 deg F) what is the normal engine operating range in South Florida?
The thermostat will remain closed to quickly get our 'cold' engines up to 50 deg C, but does the sea water ever remove enough heat at +/- 22 deg C (approx sea water temp = 70 deg F) to let the thermostat cycle?
If I could monitor the actual engine temperature to a value deg C (or deg F), what temperature range would that be?

I am researching / choosing an industrial repair product similar to JB-Weld for a superficial repair to the cooling water passageway due to corrosion / electrolysis. Think along the lines of a dental cavity.This is for an outer wall repair.
Some of the Belzona products have a maximum 'immersion' temperature rating. I want to choose wisely.

Actually, what is the maximum temperature that could be seen?

Thank you for your anticipated replies.
Cheers!

[FabricGATOR]

While writing this, it inspired perhaps a quick way to know...
I don't have handy access to a FSM...

Can someone tell me at what value does the overheat cylinder head temp switch close at?
I know there is a test in the annual inspection / maintenance section up front.

[fairdeal]

I'm unable to discern what engine model we're talking about?


the alarm point I seen for switches/sensors at the thermostat housing is 194 F


So inference is. it should not get that hot without an overheat alarm

but what "normal" is - I personally have no idea.

[99yam40]

I have had the outer hole opening welded up and then filled in the crater on in inside with JB on my C40

[FabricGATOR]

]I'm unable to discern what engine model we're talking about?[/B]


the alarm point I seen for switches/sensors at the thermostat housing is 194 F


So inference is. it should not get that hot without an overheat alarm

but what "normal" is - I personally have no idea.

Sorry, I am usually pretty good at identifying my make and model.
SX / LX 150 TXRY

Thank you for the 194 deg F info.

[FabricGATOR]

I have had the outer hole opening welded up and then filled in the crater on in inside with JB on my C40

Yes, thank you for you experience and 'cure'...
Luckily, I am not a hole through 'yet'.... and I am sure you know how it sometimes goes with welding on corroded aluminum.... especially inside a tight spot.

JB is good. JB now also makes a high temp, I have no experience with that. These Belzona products, they sure make some bold claims. Their Belzona 1212 can make permanent epoxy repairs to oily fuel tanks with minimal surface preparation and quick cure. Used to slap a repair holes in HumVee fuel tanks in Desert Storm and used all over on offshore petrol platforms. Other products like Belzona 1111 can patch repair a steel hull and cure underwater. Neat stuff but not rated for high temp.

Dentists have the best adhesives and fillers. Dentists also, usually build the best experimental home built aircraft in my experience.

Thank you 99yam40

[boscoe99]

[FabricGATOR]

Gracias senor Boscoe99.... Muchas Gracias!

For those that may be interested in my folly, The Belzona product 5111 HT SuperMetal is a JB weld like two part hardening substrate that has a serviceable temperature range up to 160 deg C (320 deg F) immersed and 210 deg C (392 deg F) dry. Great tenacity, hardness, resisitance to chemicals, and is machinable with hand tools and has electric insulation qualities.
May be of interest to someone trying to salvage an exhaust stack or such. Neat stuff. Who knew.

[99yam40]

I have some 1221 here at the house.
years ago I patched an aluminum boat that the battery box vibrated with sand under it too long and made the metal very thin, could not weld it up.
rigged up a aluminum plate for riveting to the hull, and slapped some 1221 between.
held up well for years.
got rid of it after getting the one I have now in 2008

[FabricGATOR]

I have some 1221 here at the house.
years ago I patched an aluminum boat that the battery box vibrated with sand under it too long and made the metal very thin, could not weld it up.
rigged up a aluminum plate for riveting to the hull, and slapped some 1221 between.
held up well for years.
got rid of it after getting the one I have now in 2008

It is claimed to be neat stuff.
I remember when I got a STC kit for a Beechcraft and they sent Hysol structural adhesive with the kit, wow, that Hysol changed the way i think about adhesives. It is now years out of serviceable life for use on aircraft, but I still have a half a quart that i use regularly for other 'household' purposes.

I see I mis-informed about the formula number, my mistake. It is not 5111 but rather the 1000 series Belzona 1511 HT Super Metal repair formula.
Huh, as it turns out, I also bought a 1221 sachet 150 gram kit because the shipping was already paid for...

I learned how to glue stuff together as a kid from playing football / softball inside the house. That Ming dynasty vase was never stronger before I got my sticky fingers on it...

[boscoe99]

It is claimed to be neat stuff.
I remember when I got a STC kit for a Beechcraft and they sent Hysol structural adhesive with the kit, wow, that Hysol changed the way i think about adhesives. It is now years out of serviceable life for use on aircraft, but I still have a half a quart that i use regularly for other 'household' purposes.

I see I mis-informed about the formula number, my mistake. It is not 5111 but rather the 1000 series Belzona 1511 HT Super Metal repair formula.
Huh, as it turns out, I also bought a 1221 sachet 150 gram kit because the shipping was already paid for...

I learned how to glue stuff together as a kid from playing football / softball inside the house. That Ming dynasty vase was never stronger before I got my sticky fingers on it...

The L-1011 fuselage was made up of aluminum panels bonded (glued) together in an autoclave. The panels were also riveted together but it was only as a back up. Never heard of the glue failing such that the rivets got to participate in holding things together.

For us old school aircraft guys it was hard to take.

In light airplanes such as the Beechcraft, vortex generators were almost always just glued on.

[FabricGATOR]

The L-1011 fuselage was made up of aluminum panels bonded (glued) together in an autoclave. The panels were also riveted together but it was only as a back up. Never heard of the glue failing such that the rivets got to participate in holding things together.

For us old school aircraft guys it was hard to take.

In light airplanes such as the Beechcraft, vortex generators were almost always just glued on.

In cabinet making, the staple just holds it together while the glue dries.
I've done many a VG kit. They are fun, easy work.

boscoe99, perhaps you may know, being the wizard of knowledge and all things great... 20 years ago I was witness to a sign company fabricating aluminum cabinets using an adhesive system. We would weld up an aluminum frame of 1/4" 2x2 angle, then the skins were applied with this adhesive. The 'system' consisted of an activator (clear liquid in a brown glass bottle) that would get brushed onto (I believe I remember correctly) one side of the metal. It dried relatively quickly to a white powdery haze. Then a caulk gun of adhesive would lay out a bead of milky white paste with the slightest hint of pink tint. I can almost remember the fragrance of the caulk. it wasn't quite an odor, rather more attractive... glue sniffer I guess. The bond was fast, almost instant so you better get it right. Perhaps a few maybe 10 seconds.
I don't remember ever having a method to release it if you missed your mark, but I also do not remember anything ever being scrapped.

We would install these in parking lots in the Florida sun. Pole signs and wall mounted, hanging over head of the unsuspecting public... I was always concerned that a #100 sheet of 1/8" aluminum would come down one day and kill or maim either a soul or an auto. I never did hear tell of that glue letting go anywhere, ever.

The use of the adhesive system made prep for paint easy, no welding distortion to address.

It may have had the fragrance of the old pink Polaroid fixative swab, but different.