Yamaha 2001, CDI and warning light / sound

[rejesterd]

not all Yams will sound the alarm when the motor is cranked with the kill switch pulled.

This one does. My father has the same year & model and the same control box. I've driven it off and on since 2002. The buzzer sounds if you try to start it with the safety lanyard pulled. I'm not 100% sure about the lights because my father's gauges are pretty caked over and hard to see in bright sunlight. But I'm 100% sure about the buzzer being triggered by the kill switch.

The issue is seeing if the buzzer will be activated by the CDI when the thermoswitch is activated and and when the oil pressure switch is activated. And the lights.

Yeah.. Marius already tested the oil pressure switch. Unless he waited less than one second before turning the key back off, that should've sounded the buzzer. That's written in the manual like I said. I think from the first page of this thread, I suggested the same basic thing as rodbolt just did..test the thermoswitch and wait the 75 seconds. That switch (incorrectly pointed out in your diagram, though it wasn't even the right diagram anyway) shares the same ground as the CDI.

Funny that you don't disagree with the notion that Marius doesn't know anything about his engine/controls, yet he had the correct wiring diagram and his suspicion from the beginning was the CDI. But that's still what every test done so far is pointing back to. It does seem strange that it would run perfectly with a bad CDI, but what else is there for him to test at this point aside from the thermoswitch? He did say he would test it, I just don't think he confirmed what the result was. Hopefully it will pass.

[rejesterd]

not all Yams will sound the alarm when the motor is cranked with the kill switch pulled.

This one does. My father has the same year & model and the same control box. I've driven it off and on since 2002. The buzzer sounds if you try to start it with the safety lanyard pulled. I'm not 100% sure about the lights because my father's gauges are pretty caked over and hard to see in bright sunlight. But I'm 100% sure about the buzzer being triggered by the kill switch.

The issue is seeing if the buzzer will be activated by the CDI when the thermoswitch is activated and and when the oil pressure switch is activated. And the lights.

Yeah.. Marius already tested the oil pressure switch. Unless he waited less than one second before turning the key back off, that should've sounded the buzzer. That's written in the manual like I said. I think from the first page of this thread, I suggested the same basic thing as rodbolt just did..test the thermoswitch and wait the 75 seconds. That switch (incorrectly pointed out in your diagram, though it wasn't even the right diagram anyway) shares the same ground as the CDI.

Funny that you don't disagree with the notion that Marius doesn't know anything about his engine/controls, yet he had the correct wiring diagram and his suspicion from the beginning was the CDI. Maybe he's way off, but that's still what every test done so far is pointing back to. It does seem strange that it would run perfectly with a bad CDI, but assuming he tested the thermoswitch like he said he would (days ago), what else is really left? I guess revving it over 2000 rpms and doing the test like rodbolt said (though the manual says it should still sound if the engine is running under 2k, it just takes longer). But aside from that, I don't think any of us here have anything more to "educate the OP" about.

[99yam40]

It is a pretty well understood by those somewhat knowledgeable of Yams that not all Yams will sound the alarm when the motor is cranked with the kill switch pulled. Does not necessarily mean a thing.

And who cares. The buzzer has been confirmed to work.

The issue is seeing if the buzzer will be activated by the CDI when the thermoswitch is activated and and when the oil pressure switch is activated. And the lights.

also need to see if the motor will go into RPM reduction when overheat or low oil pressure is triggered.

All 3 of these things(alarm buzzer, lights, and RPM reduction) are suppose to notify the operator of the motor there is a problem so they can take the appropriate action( shut motor off as soon as safely possible), strange to have all 3 things fail.

maybe I missed it but I do not remember seeing where they were tested /proved from the CDI output points, or proved the CDI was receiving the signals it should

[Ole marius Petterson]

Funny that you don't disagree with the notion that Marius doesn't know anything about his engine/controls, yet he had the correct wiring diagram and his suspicion from the beginning was the CDI. Maybe he's way off, but that's still what every test done so far is pointing back to. It does seem strange that it would run perfectly with a bad CDI, but assuming he tested the thermoswitch like he said he would (days ago), what else is really left? I guess revving it over 2000 rpms and doing the test like rodbolt said (though the manual says it should still sound if the engine is running under 2k, it just takes longer). But aside from that, I don't think any of us here have anything more to "educate the OP" about.

Hello, and thank you for taking defense on my behalf. Yes, I have tried everything I have written, but it remains to try the latest suggestions. I hope to get the boat on the sea to test those things on Tuesday

[boscoe99]

This one does. My father has the same year & model and the same control box. I've driven it off and on since 2002. The buzzer sounds if you try to start it with the safety lanyard pulled. I'm not 100% sure about the lights because my father's gauges are pretty caked over and hard to see in bright sunlight. But I'm 100% sure about the buzzer being triggered by the kill switch.

Yeah.. Marius already tested the oil pressure switch. Unless he waited less than one second before turning the key back off, that should've sounded the buzzer. That's written in the manual like I said. I think from the first page of this thread, I suggested the same basic thing as rodbolt just did..test the thermoswitch and wait the 75 seconds. That switch (incorrectly pointed out in your diagram, though it wasn't even the right diagram anyway) shares the same ground as the CDI.

Funny that you don't disagree with the notion that Marius doesn't know anything about his engine/controls, yet he had the correct wiring diagram and his suspicion from the beginning was the CDI. Maybe he's way off, but that's still what every test done so far is pointing back to. It does seem strange that it would run perfectly with a bad CDI, but assuming he tested the thermoswitch like he said he would (days ago), what else is really left? I guess revving it over 2000 rpms and doing the test like rodbolt said (though the manual says it should still sound if the engine is running under 2k, it just takes longer). But aside from that, I don't think any of us here have anything more to "educate the OP" about.

Wasn't me that said anything about the OP not knowing.

[99yam40]

The lights in the instrument panel get + 12v from the remote control. When I disconnect the multi-connector (inside the engine) with the two green wires that go directly to the lamps, put ground / minus on the wires, then they both light up. So there is nothing wrong with remote control or gauge/bulps. I see no damage or something on the wiring harness in the engine, so think that it is the brain of the engine that does not work properly. The engine itself runs fine...

reading back over this thread it seems you checked to make sure the lights work from the main connector at the motor, but never check from the wiring at the CDI.
and you never checked to make sure the CDI was getting the signals from the oil and overheat

[panasonic]

For everyone's info, the manual says:

f50 overtemp.JPG

[boscoe99]

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[99yam40]

that seem to me that there might not be an oil pressure switch, but a sensor that reads oil pressure to find a reading below 6.97 psi.

I also seem to remember something about some motors having both, and ECUs using that info differently.Even alarming if it overpressured

Apparently this motor does not have a CDI, but has a ECU

Or Yamaha says it has a computer, but still has a CDI ignition system in it

OP still needs to make sure signals are getting to the ECU and coming out of the ECU or not

[Ole marius Petterson]

reading back over this thread it seems you checked to make sure the lights work from the main connector at the motor, but never check from the wiring at the CDI.
and you never checked to make sure the CDI was getting the signals from the oil and overheat

No I have not checked the signal from the oil and overheat "switches", as I found it very unlikely that both of them would stop working at the same time when all the wires inside the engine are undamaged and the multi-connector still looks new. Both detectors defective at the same time are very unlikely, so then i thought about the CDI / ECU as the reason..

[rodbolt17]

dude.
aint no signal from a thermoswitch nor the oil pressure switch.
just like the lamp in your refridgerator,they are on or off.
the tach does NOT do a ECU/CDI self test.
the self test is built into the tach and does it at key on.
like I said, some of the functions simply wont work until the engine speed has reached above 2000 rpm for that key cycle.

[rejesterd]

The rigging guide doesn't mention the self test, but it does say that if the tach doesn't wake up at key-on, then the gauge might be defective. That's why I asked about the pole settings on the tach (since it wasn't hooked up on this hull originally). But those settings only appear to matter when the engine is running and the lighting coil is charged (and Marius sees a correct rpm reading then). However, it's hard to suspect the gauge when the buzzer doesn't sound if the starter is engaged with the kill switch removed.

[99yam40]

No I have not checked the signal from the oil and overheat "switches", as I found it very unlikely that both of them would stop working at the same time when all the wires inside the engine are undamaged and the multi-connector still looks new. Both detectors defective at the same time are very unlikely, so then i thought about the CDI / ECU as the reason..

still need to make sure the ECU get the input it needs to do what it is suppose to do.

and as said before did you ground the points the wires leave the ECU to the lights to make sure that will light up the lights?

[rejesterd]

still need to make sure the ECU get the input it needs to do what it is suppose to do.

and as said before did you ground the points the wires leave the ECU to the lights to make sure that will light up the lights?

What part number is this ECU? The manual says it's CDI, and all the wiring diagrams say the same thing. There's a microcomputer built into the unit, but it's CD ignition as far as I can tell. In all the manuals I've read, ECU/ECM means TC ignition with microcomputer, and CDI means CD ignition with microcomputer.

However, the tests you're suggesting would apply to either so they're worth doing imo.

[Ole marius Petterson]

Hopefully I will be testing all this including rpm over 2000 on Tuesday