Yamaha 2001, CDI and warning light / sound

[99yam40]

First time I have ever seen a 703 control box being used with a remote key switch/kill switch panel. Learning something new every day.

I am trying to understand where you see that remote key /kill switch

I thought the pic posted was of the 703

[pstephens46]

Poor OP. Good grief.

[boscoe99]

I am trying to understand where you see that remote key /kill switch

I take it back. I am looking at the innards of the 703 control box. I thought that was a separate panel.

[boscoe99]

Poor OP. Good grief.

My condolences to her as well.

Got lots of cooks here stewing over the broth.

[boscoe99]

Does this place seem more clustered than normal lately?

[pstephens46]

Does this place seem more clustered than normal lately?

Maybe frantic. A competition perhaps. I’m off to purchase an F50 manual. Apparently insightful for all models, including the infamous HPDI.

[Ole marius Petterson]

I have now tested all the wires in the multi-cable from the remote control and up to the connector inside the engine compartment. All the wires are intact and pink coming out of the buzzer goes into the multi-cable as it should ... I think now that it is either the brain of the engine that is the problem or that the switch in the remote control is defective.

[99yam40]

have you made sure you have 12 V+ at the buzzer when you turn the key to the on position?
If you have 12 V+ there then ground the other wire leaving the buzzer to see that is sounds.
move to the other end of the 10 wire harness and ground the wire there to see if the buzzer sounds.
trace the wire all the way to the devices that will set off the buzzer to see where it does not work.

Or am I wrong about this buzzer having 12 V+ directly from the key switch?

[fairdeal]

Or am I wrong about this buzzer having 12 V+ directly from the key switch?

We know there is a 703 control - saw a photo of it.
(AFAIK we still don't know exactly what gauge,
whose warning lamps are expected to illuminate at key on)

So this is the wiring of the 703 below
Ignition on provides power to the buzzer,
the "CDI unit" provides a ground to sound the buzzer.

back-probing the buzzer wire at the CDI connector to ground it,
would have been my first step...

[rejesterd]

Marius - I wanted to ask.. did you have a different motor on this boat before? If so, what model was it? I ask because you might just need to switch the pole setting to 12 on the back of your tachometer gauge.

[boscoe99]

Marius - I wanted to ask.. did you have a different motor on this boat before? If so, what model was it? I ask because you might just need to switch the pole setting to 12 on the back of your tachometer gauge.

What brought this up?

[99yam40]

I get the feeling he just likes to lead people around in circles
there may be rabbits in this hole over here

[Ole marius Petterson]

I have this one as shown in the picture below. RPM works just fine. It is the warning lights for oil and temperature that are completely dead. No light either before start, or if I jump the temperatur switch or put the oil cable to ground. -and buzzer doesn't work... Engine, remote control and instruments were all on the same boat. I dismantled it but forgot to check that everything worked before I bought it.

[fairdeal]

No light either before start, ... or put the oil cable to ground.

The buzzer not sounding when cranking with the lanyard pulled is a puzzler -

but this, above, with the lights is a different issue.

(not only because the wiring for each is completely separate)

The gauge lights are very simple.

with key switch on energizes the yellow harness wire - supplies 12V + to the gauge and its indicator lamps.

When the 'signal' wire - either oil or temp - is grounded, that lamp lights.

That's all the CDI does - provide a ground.

With key on, if you apply ground directly to the signal lead, at the gauge, the lamp should light.

If it doesn't - either the gauge isn't actually getting power
or there is an internal problem with the gauge.
Those are the only possibilities.

(I don't think the 'bulbs' can 'burn out', but....)

[Ole marius Petterson]

The lights in the instrument panel get + 12v from the remote control. When I disconnect the multi-connector (inside the engine) with the two green wires that go directly to the lamps, put ground / minus on the wires, then they both light up. So there is nothing wrong with remote control or gauge/bulps. I see no damage or something on the wiring harness in the engine, so think that it is the brain of the engine that does not work properly. The engine itself runs fine...