Yamaha 2001, CDI and warning light / sound

[Ole marius Petterson]

Do you see a round plastic part that has a pink and a yellow wire coming out of it? If not, then you don't have a buzzer. Maybe you can take some pictures of the control box with the panel removed. I actually don't know where it sits (whether it's in the remote control box itself or if it's behind a gauge on the console), but I would like to see it. I would open up my dad's 2001 F50 to confirm, but our camp hasn't opened yet.

I would say the CDI is fine though (especially if it runs well at cruising speed). You can always buy the buzzer and install it at some point if it's not there. But if it's not installed, then I think what you're seeing is completely normal.

I will check as soon as possible and take pictures :-)

[boscoe99]

[boscoe99]

[panasonic]

I will check as soon as possible and take pictures :-)

Could you also post picture of the model/serial # from data plate on transom bracket?

Thanks

[Ole marius Petterson]

Here are pictures of both the remote control and the engine specifications 😊
I took out the buzzer and connected it directly to 12 volts, and it have a clear sound and in itself it works fine. Otherwise no sound whatever I do...
All contacts in the motor are opened and all are in perfect condition as if they were new. All the contacts inside the control box were the same. The wire connectors outside the box to the instruments were dirty but I cleaned with emery paper and inserted them with electrical grease.

[rejesterd]

Nice. So follow the pink wire then and just keep checking for continuity at every connection point up until you get to the CDI. That should be the lead going back to the engine (according to your main wiring diagram).

[Ole marius Petterson]

(Is there an app for iPhone for this forum? I would like to get an alert in the app 😊 Now I'm using a browser that doesn't alert me

[Ole marius Petterson]

Hm ... When I now think about ... I had to pull quite hard on the wire that goes to the control box when it was to be dismantled from the previous boat ..

I don't have time now, but hopefully tomorrow. Then I will check all the wires in the cable from the control box and up to the connector inside the engine. Good idea, rejesterd 😃

[rejesterd]

And actually, I would trace it both ways. The pink wire coming from the buzzer should go out to the engine and to the CDI. The yellow wire should go back to the start switch. The diagram in manual for the 703 control box says yellow becomes the battery lead at key-on, but the manual for the engine says its pink. So maybe you connected the buzzer's pink wire to the pink lead from the start switch instead , when it really should be pink-to-yellow.

[Ole marius Petterson]

Do you mean inside the remote? Those wires were like this when I bought the engine. I did not re-connect the wires inside the remote control, only inside the engine. Are you thinking that they can be connected incorrectly inside the remote control before I got it, that yellow should connect to pink, and pink to yellow, inside the remote?

[rejesterd]

I'm thinking they can be rearranged, but if you never touched them, then I would assume they're correct.. so just trace the pink wire going out from the control box to the engine. If you don't see a pink wire, maybe it's yellow and you connected it to the hour meter circuit by mistake. I'm just going by the F50 manual's main wiring diagram, which clearly shows (to me) that the positive lead from the start switch is pink. The yellow wire in the main harness appears to go to the hour meter only.

[fairdeal]

IIf you don't see a pink wire, maybe it's yellow and you connected it to the hour meter circuit by mistake. I'm just going by the F50 manual's main wiring diagram, which clearly shows (to me) that the positive lead from the start switch is pink. The yellow wire in the main harness appears to go to the hour meter only.

I have to say, bro, you're not helping.

maybe you should wait to "provide guidance" until you've had a chance to actually see Yamaha wiring,
and don't have to guess or imagine.

[boscoe99]

I have to say, bro, you're not helping.

maybe you should wait to "provide guidance" until you've had a chance to actually see Yamaha wiring,
and don't have to guess or imagine.

I long to have more self restraint like you.

[boscoe99]

First time I have ever seen a 703 control box being used with a remote key switch/kill switch panel. Learning something new every day.

[rejesterd]

Also, I would definitely try that test you did before when you bypassed the thermoswitch. You just have to make sure to run the engine for at least 75 seconds. Then the buzzer should sound if the wiring is all correct and intact, and you don't have to worry about the indicator lights.

If all you did was hook up the 10-pin harness to the engine and those 4 wires to the tachometer harness, then all the wiring should be correct going to the engine. But the connections going back to the tach are different, depending on which tach you have. Maybe take a picture of your gauges. Then compare that to the ones shown here:

https://online.flowpaper.com/7c250766/2019MRP/#page=1