f225 starts but don't dare turn her off!!!

[TownsendsFJR1300]

I noticed that the onboard fuel/water filter while running had bubbles rising to the top every couple of seconds..

My cup seals at the top (No drain), thus, I cannot get bubbles from the bottom up .

I'm not quite sure, but does your cup have a drain or seal at the bottom? If so, check the seal on the drain for any cracking/ air leaking. Just looked at your parts fisch, your fuel filter is similar to mine with NO drain (please correct me if I'm wrong)..

[rodbolt17]

rigged CORRECTLY there is ONE emergency stop switch and it will kill both engines.
what some folks do? all I can say is it aint my circus,not my monkey.
your describing low fuel rail pressure .
possibly something isn't right in the VST.

[madharchod]

if its a properly set up twin motor then there should be only one lanyard for both engines but different meters for each engine ,if one starts and stops like it should do with their each individual key system then the engine which dosent start is the problem ,which in this case is. so you either check what you did before would have created a fuel lock ie vacuum or your fuel pressure is excessive which caused it to flood ,or you dont have enough pressure in the rail
VST and other fuel problems shouldn't be attempted by novice mechanics

[TownsendsFJR1300]

if its a properly set up twin motor then there should be only one lanyard for both engines but different meters for each engine ,if one starts and stops like it should do with their each individual key system then the engine which dosent start is the problem ,which in this case is. so you either check what you did before would have created a fuel lock ie vacuum or your fuel pressure is excessive which caused it to flood ,or you dont have enough pressure in the rail
VST and other fuel problems shouldn't be attempted by novice mechanics

What I was trying to get to, (doesn't apply to me as I have a single engine) is should the safety get activated, good, it kills both engines.

Now, with the lanyards installed back in (and also if there is a separate engine broke issue), WILL the second engine start and run? With separate ignition switches/controls (except for one lanyard), it shoud run correct?

[cmitchell2]

One lanyard for both engines and when pulled and starting is attempted an alarm sounds. The boat is 03 Grady White 282 Sailfish with original set up from factory. I am going to check fuel pressure again since I corrected the fuel line mix up and see where it is now. Any other suggestions to look at while I'm at boat? I read about a guy who put some kind of injector cleaner in fuel filter on engine and ran it through? Anybody ever done this?

[TownsendsFJR1300]

I think you did flush the lines... Was there any crap in there?

Any varnish inside the VST?

Yamaha's "Ringfree" is the best fuel system/top end cleaner I've come across but your issue, seems way beyond just a dirty system.

As Rodbolt noted, low fuel pressure at the rail.

Depending on what the rail pressure is, wet or dry spark plugs after cranking will confirm wether its getting enough fuel or not to run beyond idle...

As for running straight injector/carb cleaner thru the filter, Ringfree, Seafoam, Chevron Techtron, for instance, is really more oil based, not like starting fluid and likely won't let the engine run without fuel. I've run a HEAVY dose of Ringfree WITH FUEL on a chipper/ shredder that was misfiring/ wouldn't idle. It did clear out the the misfire, idled again (no other work to the engine). IME, running a heavy dose shouldn't hurt anything but with fuel.

[TownsendsFJR1300]

I noticed that the onboard fuel/water filter while running had bubbles rising to the top every couple of seconds. I squeezed bulb and filled it back up. The level would drop halfway down the filter and I would squeeze bulb to refill.

I assume your talking about an aftermarket, say transom mounted fuel filter? Like below?



You shouldn't be getting any air bubbles once its full. Check the flat o-rings, make sure there's only ONE ring at each connection (sometimes they stick together)

As a side note, my neighbors 200, Yamaha V6, 2 stroke, wouldn't run (when we were out fishing) without me priming the bulb constantly (in the middle of a trip). The issue was later found to be a broken fuel filter flat o-ring alowing air into the system. The fuel pump apparently (and not designed to) couldn't pull enough fuel with that broke flat o-ring to the carbs..

[cmitchell2]

Scott, thanks for the advice. The filter I am talking about is the one mounted on the engine. The last time I started and let engine idle I never saw any bubbles. The filter was full and dropped down and filled again. I assume this is what Rodbolt was talking about the low pressure pump cycles on every 20 seconds. Ring free could not hurt I'm sure but not counting on that solving my problem.

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Scott, thanks for the advice. The filter I am talking about is the one mounted on the engine. The last time I started and let engine idle I never saw any bubbles. The filter was full and dropped down and filled again. I assume this is what Rodbolt was talking about the low pressure pump cycles on every 20 seconds. Ring free could not hurt I'm sure but not counting on that solving my problem.

No problem.

One issue I had with that filter cup (very similar as yours), it expanded (and turned yellow) from the ethonol over time. The engine dies one day while idleing out in the canal. Tied up to a dock, pulled the cowl. Found that cup was NOT FULLY SEATED. Apparently, the last time I had it apart, I didn't notice it was not seated in the mount. The screw on cap was nice and tight, no leaks... It was found as I primed the bulb and found just a little bit of fuel leaking out between the cup and the mount. The o-ring wasn't even touching.

I don't know how it even ran. With the expanded cup, it would not go UP FULLY and seat against the rubber seal (for an airproof seal). It was initially changed under warranty, the new slipped right in, the other, NOPE, not even close..

Last month, I changed out the filter and noticed the cup again beginning to swell. Not as bad as the first time, but for $10.00, changed it out wth the filter. Yours should be about the same price (if needed). It should be noted that the original cup expanded maybe .010", not alot, but enough the cup did NOT seat fully nor go into the recess.

Lastly, while running, I don't believe my fuel cup has fuel or bubbles, raising and lowing at all and NO bubbles.. Point being, if that filter cup seal is NOT FULLY seated, leaking, it WILL run itself out of fuel, no matter how good the fuel pump is.

I can't speak for Rodbolt, its somewhat assumed that cup is functionng properly, no leaks, fully seated. I would pull and check that first off (mine wouldn't even idle-no fuel getting pumped, just air). Rule that out, then as Rodbolt posted, start looking at the pump(s).

Good luck...

[rodbolt17]

the F225 uses an electric lift pump that cycles 10 sec on 20 sec off below 1200 RPM.
the F150 uses a pair of mechanical pumps that work anytime the cams are turning.
apples to mud balls.

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Rodbolt,

From part of his previous post, is this normal? I believe his fuel cup DOES NOT have a drain built into it.

I noticed that the onboard fuel/water filter while running had bubbles rising to the top every couple of seconds.

And out of curiosity, with the electric fuel pump cycling, should the fuel level in the filter rise up and down or pretty much stay level?

[cmitchell2]

Went to boat and checked fuel water filter mounted on engine. It had some water in it and other debris. It was brand new. Dumped and cleaned. Took off high pressure fuel line and put it into a bucket and turned the key to on position several times as suggested. That fuel looked good with only a couple drops of water in about a couple pints of fuel from the vst tank. She fired up and ran on the muffs. Turned her off and she started up again which had not been the case. Then tried to raise the rpms and she did it but soon bogged down. Pulled brand new spark plugs and all look fouled but one. I'll try and post a picture.

[cmitchell2]

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The engine while running I could here a buzzing sound coming from one of the coils. Is that a sound you here when they are running?

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Don't know about your engine but mine doesn't make that noise what so ever.

I've never heard an ignition coil "buzz".

If you can, carefully, while "its" buzzing, touch it (may be hot, may leak voltage), but if its buzzing, you should be able to literally feel it. You may start with an insulated screwdriver so you don't get electrocuted, just in case.

I tend to believe something else is buzzing (unless its loosely mounted)..

[cmitchell2]

The buzz was the two rollers that the timing belt turns. After letting it idle I listened close and that is what was making the noise. I think its normal and I thought it was a buzz but wasn't at all. After I turned it off it would not start again!!!!!! I'm going to open up the vst again and check the needle valve.