F200XB & LF200XB Apron screws are too tight & hex socket is shallow

[TownsendsFJR1300]

For next time, just get an electric impact wrench and an impact-rated hex bit set. Worth every penny.

The Yamaha thread-locker (as used on motorcycle stators, internal wiring tabs, etc), will NOT come off with an impact wrench. Red Loctite takes a lil over 400F to release.


*The Yamaha stuff takes at LEAST THAT with a heat gun right on the metal part and even then, it's a b1tch... That's using a torx bit for an internal stator attached to the side cover..


Why they put that stuff on the aprons is beyond me. They do have lighter duty locker.

[TAEZZARS]

No way you should need impact power on those fasteners. Really? Use grease as suggested. Use a bit of grease on anything that is submerged in salt. My lower can be removed easily with a 3/8 ratchet. What is the world coming to?

Your point is well taken, however, this was the initial removal of the screws & they were obnoxiously tight, all the way out, from factory assembly. Depending on where, I use ether blue grease or marine grade anti-seize grease.

[TAEZZARS]

Thanks to all. I may not post much, but I do appreciate you guys & your help.

[rejesterd]

The Yamaha thread-locker (as used on motorcycle stators, internal wiring tabs, etc), will NOT come off with an impact wrench. Red Loctite takes a lil over 400F to release.


*The Yamaha stuff takes at LEAST THAT with a heat gun right on the metal part and even then, it's a b1tch... That's using a torx bit for an internal stator attached to the side cover..


Why they put that stuff on the aprons is beyond me. They do have lighter duty locker.

Yeah, times have changed. My 18V Milwaukee impact wrench is rated at 1400 ft-lbs for nut busting.

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Yeah, times have changed. My 18V Milwaukee impact wrench is rated at 1400 ft-lbs for nut busting.

Yep, you'll strip the head off before the threads release...

[rejesterd]

Yep, you'll strip the head off before the threads release...

Not if you heat it

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Not if you heat it

Correct, that's what I posted..

[99yam40]

putting a impact on shallow headed aluminum fasteners is a no no, even with heat

[pstephens46]

These “aprons” are plastic, correct?

[TownsendsFJR1300]

These “aprons” are plastic, correct?

Should be..

Can't use heat until the heads drilled off and the apron removed.

[TAEZZARS]

putting a impact on shallow headed aluminum fasteners is a no no, even with heat

Yes, however, these fasteners are steel,. Any applied heat in this area will harm or destroy the plastic apron. I found that diligent alignment of the hex wrench is paramount.

[99yam40]

Yes, however, these fasteners are steel,. Any applied heat in this area will harm or destroy the plastic apron. I found that diligent alignment of the hex wrench is paramount.

well it seems I was led astray by a comment
"Take a heat gun to the stud (which is in aluminum), that should loosen the locker, then spin out the stud out with a vise grip."

[TownsendsFJR1300]

well it seems I was led astray by a comment
"Take a heat gun to the stud (which is in aluminum), that should loosen the locker, then spin out the stud out with a vise grip."

I posted; "Take a heat gun to the stud (which is in aluminum),"" . That IS correct.

The apron is already off (earlier stated drill the head of the steel bolt off).

What's left of the steel bolt (threaded into the aluminum block), heat the area, to loosen the holding power of the thread locker..


Obviously, putting that much heat to the apron will destroy it..


It's a moot point as the op already removed the bolts...



*Recently, I had a recessed torx screw in a Stihl BR600 blower (dropped an exhaust valve at WOT). One of the 4 engine to plastic bolts stripped out (which holds the engine to the main plastic housing)..

I simply Mig welded (plug weld) a small nut to the bolt and EASILY removed it W/O damaging the plastic. The bolt I believe is about the same size as the apron or a size bigger.

Between the immediate heat (direct to the bolt) and now something to grab on to, it spun right out. I did have a wet cloth around the plastic and a spray water bottle to prevent damage to the plastic (no damage).

Re-assembled with another exhaust valve, valve keeper (which failed), valve guide, crank bearings/seals, etc: https://www.flickr.com/photos/147134...6/40678393633/

[TownsendsFJR1300]

putting a impact on shallow headed aluminum fasteners is a no no, even with heat

I don't know of any ALUMINUM fasteners used on most any engine (due to lack of strength). Now steel, SS, etc, into an aluminum block / part is the norm..


*I do have small PLASTIC screws holding my windshield on, on the motorcycle. This is so should you crash, the windshield will break away from the fairing as you do your "Superman impression" after the collision...

[99yam40]

appearintly I missed the" in" part of that statement more than once some how