F200XB & LF200XB Apron screws are too tight & hex socket is shallow

[TAEZZARS]

In attempting to remove my aprons, I have stripped out a couple of the sockets of the bolts, yes I am using a metric "Allen" wrench. How do I get them out?

[fairdeal]

bummer.
I would try a left-handed drill bit-
1/4" may not be too hard to find,
or a tad smaller or larger

ideally as it bites, the screw will back out
and then you just have to buy a new screw @ $3 per

but shouldn't chew up the apron
or the threaded holes in the upper casing

[99yam40]

the end of the allen wrench is usually rounded some on the end to make it easier to slide into the hole.
you might try grinding the end flat to give it better bite all of the way inside the screw head.
also make sure the hole is clean so the wrench fits in as far as it can get

[DennisG01]

If the allen set is a cheaper set, I've found in the past that their sizes aren't always completely true and it leads to that problem. Try the next half size larger or a standard size - see if they fit better. Otherwise, I assume there's not enough room to cut a slot for a straight screwdriver bit and a manual impact driver? The reverse bit is a good idea... or an easy out set. Also, spray some PB Blaster in there a few times over the course of a day or two - can't hurt.

[99yam40]

If the allen set is a cheaper set, I've found in the past that their sizes aren't always completely true and it leads to that problem. Try the next half size larger or a standard size - see if they fit better. Otherwise, I assume there's not enough room to cut a slot for a straight screwdriver bit and a manual impact driver? The reverse bit is a good idea... or an easy out set. Also, spray some PB Blaster in there a few times over the course of a day or two - can't hurt.

this brought up another thought for me.
if the next size up does not fit, try some metric ones.
and do not feel hitting on them is bad to get them in there.
if all else fails take a file to one that almost fits to take off a little on each flat side.
anything to get the old out and buy new to go back in

[TAEZZARS]

Thanks for all the comments. I am a tool guy & only use high quality tools (cheap tools are a fools ****). It appears that these bolts are coated with a thread locker compound & that is the problem. The screws back out very hard. I have rounded out a couple of the screws & an Easy Out saved the day. Instead of a 5mm sock head, I am considering replacing them with 316 ss hex head cap screws with a flat & a lock washer. Does anyone see a problem with that?
edit:
Interesting the word "****" is blocked with ****. I did not swear. **** This is crazy again blocked, g a m e

[fairdeal]

I assume Yamaha thinks that flat black button head looks "unobtrusive"
if you like the looks of whatever you use ......

fwiw I goop those screws with waterproof grease when i Install
I don't think they are at risk of vibrating loose / backing out

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Thanks for all the comments. I am a tool guy & only use high quality tools (cheap tools are a fools ****). It appears that these bolts are coated with a thread locker compound & that is the problem. The screws back out very hard. I have rounded out a couple of the screws & an Easy Out saved the day. Instead of a 5mm sock head, I am considering replacing them with 316 ss hex head cap screws with a flat & a lock washer. Does anyone see a problem with that?
edit:
Interesting the word "****" is blocked with ****. I did not swear. **** This is crazy again blocked, g a m e

Worse case scenario, drill the head off and remove the apron.

You should have some stud left sticking out.

Take a heat gun to the stud (which is in aluminum), that should loosen the locker, then spin out the stud out with a vise grip.

Or if you have a MIG welder, plug weld a nut to the stud, the spin it out-No additional heat required..


*Might use a lower strength locker if you think you need it. Some of Yamaha's Locker (for stators, etc), is STRONG stuff..

[99yam40]

Worse case scenario, drill the head off and remove the apron.

You should have some stud left sticking out.

Take a heat gun to the stud (which is in aluminum), that should loosen the locker, then spin out the stud out with a vise grip.

Or if you have a MIG welder, plug weld a nut to the stud, the spin it out-No additional heat required..


*Might use a lower strength locker if you think you need it. Some of Yamaha's Locker (for stators, etc), is STRONG stuff..

sounds like he already got them out, just asking about putting SS hex heads back in

"I have rounded out a couple of the screws & an Easy Out saved the day. Instead of a 5mm sock head, I am considering replacing them with 316 ss hex head cap screws with a flat & a lock washer. Does anyone see a problem with that?"

I am not sure what metal they screw into, but coating them should help keep it from sticking

[pstephens46]

sounds like he already got them out, just asking about putting SS hex heads back in

"I have rounded out a couple of the screws & an Easy Out saved the day. Instead of a 5mm sock head, I am considering replacing them with 316 ss hex head cap screws with a flat & a lock washer. Does anyone see a problem with that?"

I am not sure what metal they screw into, but coating them should help keep it from sticking

Did the originals rust? Why stainless? Stainless fasteners have their own issues.

[TownsendsFJR1300]

sounds like he already got them out, just asking about putting SS hex heads back in

"I have rounded out a couple of the screws & an Easy Out saved the day. Instead of a 5mm sock head, I am considering replacing them with 316 ss hex head cap screws with a flat & a lock washer. Does anyone see a problem with that?"

I am not sure what metal they screw into, but coating them should help keep it from sticking

Yep, guess your right re-reading it..


I don't see anything else but aluminum it can be as it's pretty much into the mid section, no?

[TAEZZARS]

Did the originals rust? Why stainless? Stainless fasteners have their own issues.

No rust or salt build up, I do my maintenance religiously, this a tuna chaser & I don't need any problems out on the tuna grounds. They were just STUPID tight with a chemical locker like TownsendsFJR1300 said - * Some of Yamaha's Locker (for stators, etc), is STRONG stuff.". He is correct.

I have wire brushed all the locker off the threads & am using the good ones again with blue grease just to hold the cowlings in place. When I get to town, I will get the stainless hardware & use the blue grease, which will prevent a lot of the alum/stainless corrosion.
Here is a photo of some of the bolts, you can see that I took a die grinder to one.

[rejesterd]

For next time, just get an electric impact wrench and an impact-rated hex bit set. Worth every penny.

[panasonic]

I would replace them all with stainless as well, hopefully you can find some good ones ...316 if possible.

Good luck with the Tuna fishing..something I always wanted to have a go at.

[pstephens46]

No way you should need impact power on those fasteners. Really? Use grease as suggested. Use a bit of grease on anything that is submerged in salt. My lower can be removed easily with a 3/8 ratchet. What is the world coming to?