Originally posted by 99yam40
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2003 Z150TRLB ECM Main Relay Issue
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Originally posted by 99yam40 View Postwith what is going on down south, I am not sure he is paying attention to this forum
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Originally posted by 99yam40 View Postnot all outboards use a charge coil and a CDI ignition system which you are describing2011 F50TLR, 2010 G3 V167C
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Originally posted by rejesterd View Post
I'm surprised it's not in your service manual, but it's a very common test like I described earlier. It's the same basic test for all modern engines. The manual should at least give you the specs for output peak voltage when cranking. There's usually a whole section on just specifications. I don't have your manual, so I don't know what the values are. But a peak voltage test is a universal thing.. not specific to any Yamaha model.
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I will repeat
Boscoe has already asked if the ground is being provided for the main relay when the Key is turned to the on position( Blue/yellow wire).
I would check at the relay and back at the ECM to see
need to make sure there is not a bad connection or wire
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Originally posted by 99yam40 View PostI will repeat
Boscoe has already asked if the ground is being provided for the main relay when the Key is turned to the on position( Blue/yellow wire).
I would check at the relay and back at the ECM to see
need to make sure there is not a bad connection or wire
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My thoughts are that it needs to be checked with the key in the on position, so find where the Blue/yellow is on the relay and the ECU pins.
turn meter to DC volts
Black meter lead on battery negative/ground
and then red lead to the blue/yellow wire points.
if the ECU does not provide a good ground connection to pull in the relay, then the reading you get will be battery voltage (12.? V)as long as the fuse is allowing that voltage to the relay coil.
You will be reading thru the coil, so the relay needs to be in place.
if the ECU provides a good ground to pull in the relay then the voltage measured from the neg battery post to that blue/yellow wire will be 0 volts( same potential as the negative battery terminal)
IF you do read 12.? v at the relay pin out ,I would then read it at the ECU pin out to make sure that wire and connections are OK between them and get the 12v to there also.
if the ECU is not providing the needed ground that wire should be showing the 12.? v at the ECU pin also
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Just to clarify, I'm asking about the trim/tilt, because as this thread continues, it seems more and more like a blown fuse. I know you said you tested them, but did the number of fuses that you tested match the number shown in the wiring diagram?2011 F50TLR, 2010 G3 V167C
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So, as I mentioned - I'm not good with electric systems... and, that includes wiring diagrams. I was working under the premise that the order of the relays shown in the diagram matched the physical order on the motor. Last night, I found a diagram early in chapter 8 that showed the "bad" relay as the Injector Relay - NOT, the ECM Relay as I had incorrectly surmised. My apologies, I know this is a bonehead mistake and I wish I had found this before wasting your time... but, the ACTUAL relay that is not closing is the Injector Relay...
The diagram I just found is at the top (and is found on page 8-5) - it shows that the first Relay on the left as #5 (and, that's the one that's not working/closing). In the lower diagram, the Driver relay is actually represented by the middle item - I didn't understand that at the time.
YamahaWireMixup.jpgAttached Files
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well it seems that you still need to know if there is 12 + to the relay and if the ECU is giving the relay a neg to operate , but that should be when the motor is turning .
injectors should not be putting out fuel if the motor is not turning
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