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the ISC is a stepper motor.
a 4 wire is a single speed the 6 wire are multi speed.
the ECU monitors TPS and MAP and CPS signals.
based on these signals it determines engine speed.
at idle speeds the idle air is "trimmed" by the ISC.
if the idle speed is high or low the ECU "requests" that the motor spin the pintle in or out to allow more or less idle air.
if the valves sticks all the ECU sees is the idle speed did not change so it keeps applying the ground(request) and this causes and excessive current draw in the ECU which can overheat both the ECU and the ISC making the ECU heat stroke and become delirious and hallucinate.
next time the engine runs,even if it dies, turn the key off and listen for the rattle.
that rattle at key off is the ISC resetting to 100% in anticipation of the NEXT restart.
if it does not rattle either its stuck or you have wireing issues.
it can rattle and still be stuck.
you can also use YDS to manually move the ISC statically.
do it about 5 times and see if the ISC heats up.
the ISC is 12 V. not 5.
however if you are testing ORANGE to BLACK and getting less than about 4.8V.
you have an issue with a sensor,wiring or the ECU got smoked.
goes back to why I wont SWAP SHEET.
to easy to end up wit TWO 1500 dollar pieces and still no answer.
that's why I always try the bad ecm on a good motor and not good the ecm on a bad motor
anyway all I have to say is that life couldn't of went on without out you guys!!!!
I found the problem
It was a cooked water sensor
as soon as i un plugged it I had five volts on the intake pressure sensor and the pressures went back to normal.
I guess without rodbolt and twirks help the only other option here was to put wings on the thing and get it up to 22 0000 feet then it would have fired right up!!!
on the bright side I have become very familiar with my motor!!
I had it out tonight and work great idling a little high anywhere from 1100 to 1400 not sure if it is from messing with the TPS or if the ISC is sticking a bit or just a bad cable?What do you think?
it has been a pleasue guys and much appreciated with a hunting way of life here in the arctic I cant live without my boat
that is a good question as not all 150's have it
and the strange thing is I cant even find it on the parts fiche
On the water jacket on my 150 I have a sensor that is the exact same sensor as the oil pressure sensor after I found the problem today I went to rob it off a busted 150 to find it doesn't have it.but has the cut out in the block but a bolt instead of the sensor so I took the oil pressure sensor and works perfect
I'll have to pop by next time I'm in Iqaluit It won't be in the foreseeable future though.
Great you at least got it running.
Can you snap a photo of your "water sensor"? Perhaps it is the engine temperature sensor you are referring to. Hard to know though.
Your engine is still having problems if, as you say idle rpm is at 1100 or higher and does not drop to 650-750rpm. Your engine has a fail-safe function which increases the idle rpm to 900 if you have electrical components that are malfunctioning.
Can you take readings of your intake and atmospheric pressure now. Both at KEY ON and then also with engine running at IDLE?
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