oil injection 130hp

[jr]

I have a 97 130 hp on my flats boat which sat in storage for 7 years. My original problem was a constant oil warning and the tank on my engine not refilling from remote tank. I repaired this problem by replacing the mercury float switch in the small oil tank but now a new problem has surfaced. As long as I run under 3800 rpm all is fine, but as soon as I attempt to run over that , after a short time (2 minutes) the alarm goes off and engine reduces to idle. If I leave the key in the on position, the alrm goes off after about 1 minute and I can resume. Can anyone help, i cannot afford dealer repairs. Thanks

[Hamfisted]

The waterpump is worn out. Get a waterpump kit (p/n 6N6-W0078-02-00 about $65 ), and replace the impeller. The old impeller probably hardened after sitting for so long.


http://www.boats.net/yamaha/partsyst...mponent=314339


Mike

[jr]

Thanks for the reply but I am confused, how does the water pump affect oil flow. My engine never runs hot and I get good flow from all areas

[Ken]

jr,
With your oil injected motor you can get an alarm not only from the oil system, but also from an overheat condition.
On your V-4 block, there are two thermo switches - one mounted in each head assy. The switches are designed to close at around 180 degrees f. to signal the ignition control that an overheat condition has been detected. Two things happen - first, the alarm immediately sounds, and then a few seconds later the motor goes into rpm reduction mode - starts missing and shaking badly to warn the operator to throttle back to neutral and correct the problem.
Usually, when you throttle back to idle, the alarm will quit after about 30 seconds.
Mike is right - since your motor sat up for that long, the impeller fingers, or paddles (there are six of them) are probably permanantly compressed on one side, and thus, you are not getting enough water pressure above 3800 to keep the motor cool,
even though you are still seeing a good side discharge (pee stream) from the pilot hole.
Best to go ahead and do a water pump repair, and that will probably fix the (overheat) alarm.
Good luck [img]smile.gif[/img] ,
Ken K

[jr]

Thanks much, I will give it a try

[jr]

Ken, I am not trying to be a hard head and it is obvious that you know much more than me about the engines, but wouldn't the overheat alarm go off????? It is the lack of oil indicator that goes off. I have pulled the cowl immediately when this happens and the cyl. heads are not to hot to touch. Please do not think I am arguing, just trying to understand. Thanks j.r.

[Ken]

jr,
No problem, budddy, ask as many questions as you like - we are all here to learn more about our outboards [img]smile.gif[/img] .
Ok, when you say "alarm" just what are you talking about ? The horn/buzzer or just the indicator on the console gauge? Both?
And is the motor going into rpm reduction mode also?
Ken K

[boats.net]

If the oil indicator light is on in the tach then check the oil level of engine oil tank, if oil level is at or below the lower line on tank then there is a oil transfer problem between remote oil tank(the one in boat) and engine tank. If the overheat indicator light is on in the tach then it is a overheat problem which what you discribed sounds like a overheat problem.

[jr]

Ken. damn.........I was born in Texas but thought I was smarter, oh well. It is the overheat alarm afterall, and yes it goes into reduction. Bought a kit today but they gave me the wrong one so I will try it tomorrow. Any tips I need? Thanks much buddy.

[Ken]

j.r.
Born in Texas and now living in FLORIDA [img]smile.gif[/img] !
Well, I guess if you can't live in Texas, Florida isn't a bad second choice [img]smile.gif[/img] !
Ok, if you have never done a water pump repair before, I strongly recommend that you get a Yamaha manual for your model outboard to guide you along. You can order online at www.yamahapubs.com. And if you need any more parts in the future, try boats.net (sponsor of this forum) - good service and great prices.
I'll give you the basics:
(1)Disconnect the speedo tube from the bullet connector - about four inches from the bottom of the upper casing.
(2)Pull the prop - good time to inspect for fishing line wrapped around the prop shaft.
(3)Remove the trim tab - there will be a "hidden" lower unit bolt under the trim tab - it is one of seven on your 130.
(4)Loosen all seven lower unit bolts and then trim the motor up at about 45 degrees so that when you remove all seven bolts and drop down the lower unit, you will have clearance for the driveshaft - have someone feed the speedo tube thru the upper casing when you drop down the lower unit.
(5)Here's where you need the manual for order of disassembly - but if you will look at the exploded view of your water pump in the online catalog above, it should be apparent - also, I am going to "paste" part of a previous post to another forum member - this was for my C115 which is basically the same as your 130 - this is for reassembly:

blmacias,
I've never thought about installing the impeller in the metal housing cup and then sliding down over the driveshaft - but, the normal sequence for installation is as follows (this is for my 2000 C115 - yours should be the same):
(1)gasket
(2)impeller plate
(3)woodruff key
(4)impeller
(5)three washers (two flat and one wave)
(6)spacer (nylon)
(7)collar (retainer ring)
(8)impeller cup and housing assembled together
with two o-rings
You can look up the exploded view of your water
pump in the online catalog above.
You want to tap the collar down on to the nylon spacer to within 0.080 inch, and then install the cup/housing/o-rings assy. Flip the nylon housing upside down and install the small o-ring. Hold it in place with marine grease. Then install the metal cup into the nylon housing and make sure it indexes properly so that the output of the cup lines up with the output of the housing. Then place the large o-ring in it's channel around the cup and hold it in place with grease.
Now, slide the assy down over the drive shaft. Make sure you have a little grease on the impeller and the inside of the cup. While pushing down on the housing after it makes contact with the impeller, rotate the driveshaft clockwise and at the same time rotate the housing/cup ccw while pushing down - the paddles of the impeller will bend back away from direction of spin.
You can have someone get down at eye level and make sure the paddles are pointing backward to clockwise spin of the driveshaft, and check the large o-ring to make sure it is still in it's channel of the nylon housing before you make contact with the impeller plate.
Line up the dowel pins with the holes in the housing.
For my first water pump, I actually put a large hose ring clamp around the impeller blades and got them started in the right direction before pushing the housing/cup assy down.
Don't worry about the position of the driveshaft - when you install the lower unit just make sure the shift rod is in neutral (turn the prop shaft - the drive shaft should not turn) and make sure the remote shift handle is in neutral. If the lower unit will not travel that last inch, have someone turn the flywheel just slightly so that the splines of the bottom of the crank will line up with the driveshaft. I have to do this every time I stab the lower unit on my C115.

Ok, also, I recommend a quality thread sealer on the water pump and lower unit bolts - I use Permatex 14A thread sealer with Teflon.
Good luck, and let us know how you come out on the water pump repair and overheat problem.
Ken K [img]smile.gif[/img]

[jr]

Thanks Ken, I will advise...Well as a young guy fresh out of college I realized that the amount of Snook in the mangroves and Tarpon on the flats in El Paso would probably be minimal so off to Florida and now 30 years later???????????