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Please help with long term Yamaha 150hp 4 Stroke issue,

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  • Please help with long term Yamaha 150hp 4 Stroke issue,

    Hi folks, I’ve was pointed in the direction of this forum in hope of fixing a long term engine problem I’ve been having. It’s stumped myself and 2 mechanics for the last 2 years and I’m finding myself at a bit of a loss. The following is as detailed an outline of the problem well as some theories and solutions we have already tried. All input welcome!.

    Engine:
    Yamaha 150 4 stroke which bought new with this zeppelin rib in 2009.

    No previous issues, serviced and winterized yearly.

    Fuel system:
    The boat has an Internal fuel tank. The fuel line runs short distance up from tank connection to fuel filter in the console. From fuel filter the fuel line continues the length of the boat back to engine and into its internal smaller fuel filter as normal. There is also a hand primer bulb in console. All a very standard setup.

    So... now to describe the problem:
    The engine starts perfectly and gets up to full speed on flat water with no problems. On flat to small choppy conditions everything is 100% perfect.

    The problem arises as the swell starts to build (only slightly) and the banging this causes begins to increase. I will be cutting through a very small sea state nicely and as it builds just a small bit she will come down from a wave with a slightly bigger bump and instantly the engine will change from it’s nice perfect revs to a chug with a bit of a wobble that can be felt in the wheel. I can keep the throttle at the same position but the engine sound has completely changed to what I would describe as a rumble with an associated vibration. If I increase throttle speed the rumble and vibration or imbalance increase and she is under powered. If I bring the throttle back to neutral the rumbling/vibration decreases with revs but if I again increase power they increase also.

    There is no clear method to fixing this issue on the water but the following have worked. 1) turn her off for a few seconds and restart. This doesn’t always work as the problem can still be there upon restart. 2) after trying a restart drive at lower revs and bring up the speed. This some times works some times doesn’t.

    When doing number 2 above and driving at say 40% on the throttle (noting she is vibrating and under powered) she can suddenly kick in to being perfect again for a few seconds, then back to a wobble, then back to perfect on and off until the issue clears and she’s back to running smooth.. until the next wave of the right size.

    One thing to note, when I say swell above I mean very small swell or even large wind chop. Just enough to get a bang vibration through the hull.

    An engine fault does show by means of a slow flashing engine symbol which seems to flash every 5 seconds.

    We ran engine diagnostics live while engaging the problem and it showed no faults but did indicate that the engine could be entering “guardian mode”

    Another thing I’ve noticed. When this issue kicks in and I return the throttle to neutral and there is still a wobble in the engine the idle revs seems smooth when I rise them.

    What we have tried so far:
    Theory 1) injectors:
    The first mechanic removed injectors and cleaned and reinstalled them but the fix didn’t seem to do much if anything. All in all we have tried this 4 times over the years and while it might seem like it had some effect at first the problem soon returns.

    Theory 2) bad spark plugs, loose filters, fuel line issues:
    All of these have been changed and checked multiple times except the fuel line we haven’t run a new one. No dirt or water has shown up in any of the filters. The fuel tank does have a second outlet for a second engine, I changed the fuel lines to this and the problem was the exact same.

    Theory 3) Apricots or loose debris in the fuel tank. I had trouble with this theory for 2 reasons. Firstly, if I bring the boat up to say 75% speed and then kink the fuel line by the tank, there is no effect on the engine for some time as it stall has all the fuel in the lines as well as the fuel filters etc. If something is suddenly stirring in the tank I can’t see how it would have an instant effect on the engine as this problem kicks in instantly. My second issue is that no debris of any kind has ever shown up in the filters. I will try and test an external tank this week just to be sure.

    Theory 4) electrics.
    I was told that a bad connection in my isolater switch could be causing the issue which engages from the bang of a swell. I bypassed the switch and the problem continued as normal.

    Other theories)
    Air entering fuel line.
    Wiring loom problem.

    There have been periods where this issue was worse. During this times it would be there from the moment you start the engine and with an even more notable imbalance and associated chugging sound. Other times it’s more resilient and takes a bigger bang to engage the issue.

    There really isn’t much rhyme or Rhythm to it. Just the fact that a small bang to the boat which she has always handled no problem now causes this issue.

    Any help, theories or thoughts with this would be greatly appreciated. It’s been plaguing my now for 2 years and I don’t know what else to do. The boat is seems so close to being perfect, I just need to solve this issue.

    Please add any follow up questions below.

    Thanks for reading,

  • #2
    find a tech.
    it cannot nor will not attempt to enter RPM reduction. it does or does not.
    no middle ground.
    have the tech program the YDIS adapter to monitor fuel pressure,battery voltage and a few other things then you can run it and take the adapter back.

    Comment


    • #3
      Originally posted by rodbolt17 View Post
      find a tech.
      it cannot nor will not attempt to enter RPM reduction. it does or does not.
      no middle ground.
      have the tech program the YDIS adapter to monitor fuel pressure,battery voltage and a few other things then you can run it and take the adapter back.
      So much easier said than done. When I read this type of thread I feel badly for both the customer and the mechanic.

      Comment


      • #4
        Fuel pressure, Battery Voltage etc have all been monitored while running with no anomalies.

        Comment


        • #5
          What RPM is the engine limited to when this happens? Will it go above 2500 RPM?

          If it happens so quickly, as you say, I think that you have a wiring problem. Somewhere there is a loose connection, broken wire inside it's shield...ect.

          Go out with engine cowl off and try to make it happen...then start moving around wires, the harness, wiring connectors, plug wires and caps (wear gloves) See if it goes away. Or vice versa...see if you can make it happen by doing this.

          My bet is a wiring plug connector with a loose pin or socket.

          Comment


          • #6
            Ask your mechanic if he is aware of the adapter that Mr. Rodbolt17 mentions. It is an on engine data logging device that can record data as the motor is being used. Seeing the data can help to point the mechanic in the direction that he needs to go. If he knows what he is looking at and how the data should look.

            The RPM reduction mode (what you mention as guardian) is only activated by over temperature or low oil pressure. As rodnut says, it is either on or it is off. No middle ground. The warning horn should sound, the RPM of the motor should fall back to ~ 2000 RPM or so, and a Yamaha tachometer will tell you where the problem lies. Either with the temperature or the pressure.

            The "check engine" icon that you see flashing has nothing whatsoever to do with the temperature/pressure warning system.

            Absent a data logger the mechanic could install a vacuum gauge to the fuel supply system, a pressure gauge to the injector rail and a digital voltmeter so as to monitor these parameters real time while you are using the boat in ruff water. Were I a betting man I would make a wager on something electrical being amiss. But...

            If it were my boat I would disconnect every electrical connection and inspect the pins and sockets. See what is to be seen. Clean all grounds and other ring terminals with an abrasive pad and make sure the connections are clean and tite. Make sure that no wire harnesses are loose where they can be flopping around. Just takes time. No money.

            Comment


            • #7
              Originally posted by Alex8888 View Post
              Fuel pressure, Battery Voltage etc have all been monitored while running with no anomalies.
              Electricity is quick. So quick that it can come and go, causing mayhem, without it being seen.

              Oh, battery voltage is one thing. Voltage at the motor, where it needs to be, is something altogether different. You can have great battery voltage but if the voltage at a device is insufficient, bad stuff can happen.

              Comment


              • #8
                Originally posted by panasonic View Post
                What RPM is the engine limited to when this happens? Will it go above 2500 RPM?

                If it happens so quickly, as you say, I think that you have a wiring problem. Somewhere there is a loose connection, broken wire inside it's shield...ect.

                Go out with engine cowl off and try to make it happen...then start moving around wires, the harness, wiring connectors, plug wires and caps (wear gloves) See if it goes away. Or vice versa...see if you can make it happen by doing this.

                My bet is a wiring plug connector with a loose pin or socket.
                These kinds of faults are known to drive a mechanic to drink. Heavily.

                Comment


                • #9
                  Thank you all. Yes I do think that this is most likely electrical. I will test all connections tomorrow and see can I cause the problem to kick in at a certain electrical point.

                  To answer the question of what RPM is it limited to about 3300 some times a little more some times a little less.

                  I will also check the monitor mentioned by Rodbolt17.

                  Really appreciate all the feedback. Please send any other theories my way.

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    the testing/data logging MUST be done when it is broke.
                    test a good running engine and I can predict the results from my keyboard.

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Very probably NOT related but the BALANCER in the F150 has been updated several times, I think the last time was 2012.

                      The latest version is a type 4 and if the previous version fails it will cause major damage to your engine.


                      A failing balancer, located right behind the Yamaha, (under cowl), fuel filter is bolted to it (at the front of the engine, see below).
                      Failing symptoms include a whining noise when revving, (from idle), mine also sounded like a cam bad belt.

                      Those balancer shafts swing a BUNCH of weight around.





                      Scott
                      1997 Angler 204, Center Console powered by a 2006 Yamaha F150TXR

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        I like the Apricot thought process myself.

                        Wonder what my max RPM would be with just one spark plug wire disconnected?

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Originally posted by boscoe99 View Post

                          These kinds of faults are known to drive a mechanic to drink. Heavily.
                          Me and the drink don't get along well so I don't partake anymore...been a long time now.Maybe only a couple drinks a year for a special occasion..my drink of choice now is ginger ale...hahaha

                          But yes problems of this sort can and will make a man drink to ease a sore brain!!!

                          Back to the scheduled program.

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Electrical faults are either loose, corroded, broken or cross connections at terminals or plugs, or within (without/outside) wires or cables.

                            They invariably by their very nature (something has happened that shouldn't have) deteriorate with time and rarely fix themselves.

                            You say this has gone on for some years; this suggests if it is an intermittent connection it is occurring somewhere it is very clean and of very low current; probably something "electronic". Corrosion and large break/connection will alter after a short time (engine completely stops or does no longer go back to good running).

                            So my two cents worth is that you need to go through every connection , disconnect and reclean paying particular attention to the small connections and wires. You may end up having to check individual wires as there maybe an internal break that can't be seen. There may be subtle evidence of excessive flexing or stretching.
                            Last edited by zenoahphobic; 04-07-2019, 02:25 PM.

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              As you are looking for something small IMO, it might be worth observing what looms are doing when you encounter rough water. A particular wire or loom, or even a component may begin to rattle or excessively shake but otherwise do not normally move.
                              Ofcourse you will need to look at hidden wires in the gunnel or behind the dash etc.

                              Comment

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