So last trip out, I noticed my voltage was dropping on my gauge .I was only a few miles from the ramp so I just heading in. By the time I made it to the ramp my gauge was flashing 8 volts. When I got the boat home and starting checking the fuses, 1 fuse had completely melted to the housing. I removed and replaced this fuse and after charging my batteries I started the engine up to see if it would blow. It did not and my gauge seems to show a little high voltage 14.6. So I figure my next step is to Test the rectifier. Looking in my service manual it calls for a peak voltage adapter, my question is why do I need this? I thought the output off the rectifier is DC? Manual states 13V anything over and replace rectifier. Anyone know where to find the fuse holder without buying a new harness?
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Yamaha F225 TXRD melted fuse
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What manual says to replace the rectifier/regulator if the voltage exceeds 13 volts? I doubt that it is a Yamaha manual.
Normal Yamaha output voltage is more or less 14.6 volts. Many smaller HP models have over 15 volts output.
Input AC voltage to an R/R is measured with a peak reading meter. Output voltage from an R/R is measured with a DC voltmeter.
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Boscoe,
I’m looking at Yamaha LIT 18616-02-76, I attached some snapshots of the charging section and test procedure.
I agree with your comment on the output which is why I asked as I would have thought the manual would have listed a range. Just trying to figure out what caused the fuse to melt. Not a fan of just replacing and calling it could without trying to figure out what caused it.
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Although it makes no sense -
the 2003 F225 SM does seem to say to measure the "peak voltage"
as far as replacing it, if the output is >13 volts
IMO it is easy to "mis-read"
Measure the Rectifier Regulator output peak voltage. ....
Replace the Rectifier Regulator if the output peak voltage of the stator coil is above specification.
here's the test r/r section
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I suspect,
Yamaha believes it unlikely that a R/R would fail in such a way as to deliver "too high" voltage
that's why there is a "minimum" specification - 13V
but no "maximum".
And the test procedure is saying, if you test the R/R and the voltage is under 13,
that may be the fault of the stator coil -
but if you then find the stator coil voltage to be OK - the regulator must be bad.
Getting back to your problem,
my own "feeling" is that a gauge reading of 14.6 on that particular motor is "high"
but I don't see it melting your fuse.
I wonder if you just developed corrosion of the fuse/ fuse holder contacts -
and normal current flow caused it to overheat.
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Fair deal
Thanks, that makes sense. I’ll check the stator after I order the test cable.
As far as corrosion, it could have been. But not blaming that until everything else checks out. Lose connection/or corrosion does create heat.
As far as the 14.6. I’ve only ever remember seeing 14.2ish but that’s been under load not on the hose.
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Originally posted by fairdeal View PostAlthough it makes no sense -
the 2003 F225 SM does seem to say to measure the "peak voltage"
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Originally posted by DivingJunkie View PostSounds like I should chalk this one up to a fuse holder connection failure. Thanks for the support, I will replace and give it a trial run
What fuse holder? The small blade fuse block or the main charge fuse chunk?
Pictures?
There are a few folks parting out engines on eBay Sometimes if you don't see what you are looking for, you may ask....
I hate the thought of buying a complete wire harness just to correct an electrical connector. That is why I hunted down Eastern Beaver.Last edited by FabricGATOR; 04-04-2019, 03:31 AM.If its got teats or tires, you bound to have trouble with it....
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