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Another 2001 250HP OX66 Tilt and trim issue.

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  • Another 2001 250HP OX66 Tilt and trim issue.

    2001 OX66 250hp, tilt works perfect going up but once I go down and she hits the smaller piston she goes a little bit and then stops. The smaller piston continue to go down all the way. I could have sworn I followed every direction to bleed this. Doesn’t seem to have air and It’s not low on fluid.

    video is here on what’s happing with this trim https://youtu.be/nhqYIERClrg

    thank you

  • #2
    In your other thread, you mentioned the fluid had water in and then got contaminated so you pulled the tilt piston and replaced some seals. All of them? Are you sure you got the little pins and balls back in correctly? From the video, and my non-professional opinion, it sure looks like you have air in there or possibly something on the tilt piston wasn't installed correctly. Looking at the video, I know you said it goes up just fine... but it doesn't appear to be quite right - there seems to be a delay before it starts moving.

    If you're 100% positive that you got all the water and contamination out, I would keep bleeding it. I have mine (entire assembly) on my bench still and it seems to be working as expected. I'd either pull the piston out again and check things over real well, or at least keep bleeding it some more.
    2000 Yamaha OX66 250HP SX250TXRY 61AX103847T
    1982 Grady Weekender/Offshore (removed stern drive & modded to be an OB)

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    • #3
      Originally posted by DennisG01 View Post
      In your other thread, you mentioned the fluid had water in and then got contaminated so you pulled the tilt piston and replaced some seals. All of them? Are you sure you got the little pins and balls back in correctly? From the video, and my non-professional opinion, it sure looks like you have air in there or possibly something on the tilt piston wasn't installed correctly. Looking at the video, I know you said it goes up just fine... but it doesn't appear to be quite right - there seems to be a delay before it starts moving.

      If you're 100% positive that you got all the water and contamination out, I would keep bleeding it. I have mine (entire assembly) on my bench still and it seems to be working as expected. I'd either pull the piston out again and check things over real well, or at least keep bleeding it some more.
      Dennis to start I really appreciate you taking time out of your day to respond to me. Ok so yes I replaced all seals. The only thing I didn’t replace was the back up ring. The white Teflon ring. I did remove all ball bearings cleaned and put back. Now about those ball bearing and spring. Can u explain to me how they are suppose to be installed. When I remove there was a metal round t shape that goes into the spring then the rod. At the bottom of the rod was the some more spring then on the bottom of the spring was the ball bearing. The ball bearing presses up against small hole on the sub assembly, or does the ball bearing need to be inside the spring?

      As as far as bleeding I watched some videos but was u able to find anything in the main piston sub assembly. How would I go about bleeding that let’s just say there is still air. I am pretty mechanically inclined. This is the first time ever I did the trim and tilt.

      Yes I flushed the crap out of this thing. Wasted a lot of fluid but I believe I got it all, thank you

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      • #4
        Just to be clear I installed the ball bearing outside the spring presses up against the sub assembly hole.

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        • #5
          Originally posted by Bangstick310 View Post
          Just to be clear I installed the ball bearing outside the spring presses up against the sub assembly hole.
          That didn't make it clearer I'm honestly not sure what you're trying to say 'thar! But, you're welcome, just the same.

          I knew I should have taken pictures as I rebuilt it! Let's see if my memory is correct and this makes sense...

          The ball obviously gets dropped in the hole first. Then I believe the T-piece goes in as it has a dimple on the flat end to mate with the ball, right? Then, drop the spring over the T-piece and then drop the rod into the middle of the spring. Does that sound right? Whatever it was, I was just very careful when I initially removed them to keep them in the proper sequence so I wouldn't forget.

          I bled by power tilting the unit down, then fully up. I opened the reservoir and let the air bubbles work their way out, then filled and closed the reservoir. I repeated that procedure a bunch of times. That's all I did to bleed it - I don't think I did anything particularly special?
          2000 Yamaha OX66 250HP SX250TXRY 61AX103847T
          1982 Grady Weekender/Offshore (removed stern drive & modded to be an OB)

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