1991 200hp txrp yamaha not enuf water on muffs

[makomecrazy]

okay so the darn thing sounded the alarm on the muffs for the last time.
took the lower unit off and connected the garden hose to the water tube in the midsection "NO ALARM" took plugs out of the top of the cylinder heads and water shooting like old faithful thank goodness! put the plugs back into the heads and while the lower unit was still off I put the muffs on it and hot damn if the frickin water could barley make it to the bottom of the water pump housing. so I forcefully made the muffs seal around the lower unit better "IGOT GREAT WATER PRESSURE" and i'll tell you what they could have designed that alot better . I will not be flushing my motor on muffs any more . does anyone know if they make a flush kit to flush it with out running the engine? thanks.

[jb123]

they make a dual sided muff

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Like this:?

Amazon.com : MERCURY - YAMAHA FLUSH VALVE SYSTEM : Boat Vents And Deck Plates : Sports & Outdoors

I personally, if you can hook up the above unit, would put a hose to that AND a HOSE (or a "V" valve) to the muffs.

You know the top end is getting water and the water pump is getting lubed. Best to warm it up some so the thermostats open and water gets everywhere...

[makomecrazy]

yes like that kinda i just don,t see how that would be retro fitted to the yamaha 2.6L . I don't run thermostats. Dual sided muffs wont help especially seeing how i physically held the single muff on the lower unit as to seal the water pressure

[Bilge Rat]

Good water pressure is just that, pressure. You need volume with no air bubbles from water blasting out the hose then thru the intake screen.

Yamahas are large volume low pressure cooling systems.

Having no T-stats is not good for the motor AND when running on the hose dumps water out faster than the hose can fill the block.
Put in some T-stats.

The simple cure is to get a 55 gall plastic drum to run the motor in. Add a little Saltaway or vinigar each flush to maintain a cleaner cooling system.

[TownsendsFJR1300]

+1^^^ on the above post as well


No thermostats isn't helping, all the water your pumping up to the powerhead is just running back out. Then the overheat alarm goes off as there's not enough water and the sensor senses (as it should) the much hotter aluminum block.

I'd bet that's why its overheating on muffs...

[makomecrazy]

I did both the barrel and had thermostats in the heads new pump housing cup plate and impeller the hole Shabam . And the bastard still still runs hot enuf to signal the alarm thinking about the bobs sportsman nose cone

[makomecrazy]

Bilge rat pressure or volume dosent help anything if it won't reach the impeller plate like mine does . Tested this with the lower unit off and muffs on ,even after sealing blow by on the muffs it was still a chore to get the water level to rise upward to the pump.