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Originally posted by Nourse1168
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Neither can I find a specified output voltage from Yamaha. Why I suggested testing a known good F250. -
As rodnut noted, the output voltage from the ECU for the knock sensor may or may not be on the same circuit as the output for the other sensors. No way of knowing that I know of.Comment
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yeah I am going to have to hunt down another 250ecm somehow. i think i will start scrubbing all the 5v sensors in hopes that maybe they do share the same circuit..Comment
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Seems they do not given that you are getting one voltage for the knock sensor (green wire) and a different voltage for the other sensors (orange wires).Originally posted by Nourse1168 View PostComment
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If the knock sensor generates AC current when rattled, why the need for 5V DC in the first place. Never heard of AC riding DC.Comment
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Allow me to quote myself.....Originally posted by pstephens46 View Post
Some discussion of this subject follows at the attached link. Exciting stuff. Grab a cup of coffee before you begin. Beyond me, but appears to be relating to some communication protocol business. I have heard some folks discussing routing IP over the high voltage AC power grid. Making internet available at every power plug in your home. No idea where/when this may be in our future.Comment
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https://forum.allaboutcircuits.com/t...g-on-dc.37039/Originally posted by pstephens46 View PostComment
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they have used High voltage lines to transmit info for many years in power transmission lines even in 138 kv,
the smart meters on the sides of our houses use that technology from what I under stand,
but never heard of them going to shoot internet down the linesComment
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So I was able to get the engine up YDS today and I am still receiving code 17 irregular knock code. I had no other codes stored, however i did uncover a few irregularities. While at idle in i was using the engine monitor, I noticed the accelerator position sensor and TPS would flash red and randomly spike voltage outside of limits. This seemed to happen about once every minute. All other electrical was within norm ranges and was producing 13.9-14.1v to the batteries... I am still looking for a ECM to swap and test.Comment
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Have you monitored the voltages to those that flash along with the KS when that is happening?
may need more that one volt meter to do thatComment
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Well I think I found the source of the knock.. I dropped the manifolds today to inspect all sensors and harness on the motor. When taking the manifolds off, I noticed about a 1/2 cup of fuel inside them. I cleaned them up pretty good and put it all back together. Ran the motor and no knock sensor coder until about 30mins later. Just as I suspected, the manifolds were loaded with fuel again.. I am assuming the float or needle valve are out of adjustment or need replacing. Heres the question, if the needle is not seating and the low pressure pump fails to shut off could that cause the brief check engine flash on the tach gauge during the start cycle...gonna drop the VST tomorrow and take a looksie.Comment
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So I pulled the VST and everything is good according to the manual accept that someone had clearly confused the placement of a vent line and the vacuum that goes to the pressure regulator. And good god, trying to visualize VST vent line schematic from the manual had me pulling my hair out. I am assuming these swapped lines is why I has so much fuel in the intake manifolds. I cleaned all of that out and I could immediately smell a leaner exhaust at idle. needle valve looked great, I even cleaned the VST filter while I had it apart. So, on to the real issues. I have scrubbed the whole harness for voltage and grounds. i cleaned tons of connections, cleaned and greased all my connectors at the ECM, Fuse panel, Rec regulator... Everything is good, I just cannot find resistance anywhere or a voltage that is out of spec. While idling up YDS for about 5 min, I received some brief flashes of many many trouble codes that did not log in the history and could not be recalled. Heres what I got.. I had to record the monitor with my phone capture these code because they were very brief... I am a complete loss here and all i can assume is that the ECU is shot.. whats really weird about all this, is that the engine runs great, i am experiencing no power issues or limp modes, only the brief check engine flash when I apply power at the key.. I dont know enough about ECMs to even try to guess if and what could be going on inside it. is it possible that I have bad sensor that is causing all these intermittent trouble codes.. and to add to the confusion, I started it up the next morning on YDS and not one issue, no knock 17 code, no flash of the check engine on start up, and none of whats listed below flashed once during a 15min idle. I swear i was thanking jesus that I had luckily fixed it.. haaaa yeah right, its right back at it today... FML
13 - Pulser coil - irregular signal
113 - Electronic throttle system - Throttle valve malfunction
127 - TPS - out of specification
119 - Electronic throttle system - Throttle valve malfunction
144 - Electronic throttle system -Throttle valve malfunction
39 - Oil Pressure sensor - out of specification
72 - CAM pos sensor (PORT IN) - irregular signal
145 - Electronic throttle system - Throttle valve malfunction
46 - Overheat thermoswitch - irregular signal
119 - Electronic throttle system - Throttle valve malfunction
121 - Electronic throttle system - Throttle valve malfunction
15 - Engine temp sensor - out of specification
137 -Electronic throttle system - Throttle valve malfunction
19 - Battery Voltage - below specified voltage
128 -TPS - out of specification
71 - CAM POS sensor STBD IN - irregular sensor
132 - Accelerator POS sensor - out of specComment
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