F80 lower unit leak behind prop

[TownsendsFJR1300]

can those seals be removed and installed without removeing the carrier.
yes.
can you destroy a prop shaft or housing attempting its, most definantly.

I can do a complete reseal on that case in about 3 hours.

self inflicted wounds can be painfully expensive.

Tks, a special tool for plucking the seals out I assume?

[rodbolt17]

years ago I made one, OMC used to make one for the jonny rude seals.
but the pick or drill method can work.
however if you slip you can destroy the seal surface of the shaft or carrier bore.

[TownsendsFJR1300]

years ago I made one, OMC used to make one for the jonny rude seals.
but the pick or drill method can work.
however if you slip you can destroy the seal surface of the shaft or carrier bore.

Just curious. I would think its made of thin SS, in a hook like shape, and sneaks in next to the shaft, then behind the seal and then the seal pryed/popped out?

A pic would really be appreciated if possible. It'd certainly help other folks and be considerably easier than "the drill and screw method"..

Thanks..

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Similar to this?:

12" Seal Puller Hand Tool Remove Grease Oil Seals Wholesale Automotive Shop Tool | eBay

[rodbolt17]

and that tool,especially in untrained hands, is gaaarruuuunteed to destroy something.
we don't like sharp tools near seal surfaces.
that's why I typically disassemble it and do it right.

[TownsendsFJR1300]

and that tool,especially in untrained hands, is gaaarruuuunteed to destroy something.
we don't like sharp tools near seal surfaces.
that's why I typically disassemble it and do it right.

Can you post a pic of your tool? (when you have some free time). Tks

[rodbolt17]

it was basically a tube with a self tapping thread at one end and a jack bolt at the other.
thread the tube into the seal and use the bolt against the propshaft to remove the seals.
I don't know what I ever did with it, haven't seen it in years.
here in the salt pond if one seal is leaking the rest are right behind it.
its simply to easy to reseal it.

[TownsendsFJR1300]

it was basically a tube with a self tapping thread at one end and a jack bolt at the other.
thread the tube into the seal and use the bolt against the propshaft to remove the seals.
I don't know what I ever did with it, haven't seen it in years.
here in the salt pond if one seal is leaking the rest are right behind it.
its simply to easy to reseal it.

Tks. Doesn't sound like something easily made on the lathe. Not that I need one, just a "toolaholic"...

[99yam40]

it was basically a tube with a self tapping thread at one end and a jack bolt at the other.
thread the tube into the seal and use the bolt against the propshaft to remove the seals.
I don't know what I ever did with it, haven't seen it in years.
here in the salt pond if one seal is leaking the rest are right behind it.
its simply to easy to reseal it.

Very interesting.
Did it thread into the metal ID part of seal?
Seems it would have to as the rubber part would not have enough grip to pull the seal out, but would have to cut through the rubber to grip the metal.
I am sure tools could be made to install the seals also with housing still installed, but removing the the housing also lets you replace oring and clean up any corrosion and lube the parts so they will come part easier next time it has to come out.

Of course if the housing does not want to come out it would be nice to get the shaft seals changed without a lot of time and trouble.

A man with the right lathe and welder could do a lot of things with a little imagination

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Very interesting.
Did it thread into the metal ID part of seal?
Seems it would have to as the rubber part would not have enough grip to pull the seal out, but would have to cut through the rubber to grip the metal.
I am sure tools could be made to install the seals also with housing still installed, but removing the the housing also lets you replace oring and clean up any corrosion and lube the parts so they will come part easier next time it has to come out.

Of course if the housing does not want to come out it would be nice to get the shaft seals changed without a lot of time and trouble.

A man with the right lathe and welder could do a lot of things with a little imagination

PVC tubing is often used for installing seals back in, (with motorcycle engine applications) and a seal is a seal, motorcycle or LU seal. Glueing different sized PVC together (ie for fork seals-VERY SIMILAR as the LU seals) custom installers can be made very easily and cheaply.

I have a steel lathe, TIG welder, arc welder however with the description by Rodbolt, would seem to be (if I understand correctly), VERY intrusive to the old seal (debris getting where it doesn't belong).

In the You Tube video posted, the screw and puller does work but as noted, very easy to cause collateral damage.

I think, I would, use a combination system. Making a steel shim (round) to slide over the main shaft to protect it (from the drill bit). Then machine out another, same design but larger, to protect the LU housing (OD). Leave enough room for say an 1/8" bit to slip in-between.

I suppose you could also take some sheet metal, bend it around the shaft to protect. Same for the LU housing but use a larger socket to bend the sheet metal around for the correct contour..

[rodbolt17]

and by the time you made all that you could have dropped the case,removed the shift shaft and driveshaft seal carrier,popped out the propshaft carrier,cleaned resealed and installed a new water pump.
takes roughly 3 hours depending on corrosion.
remember left untreated corrosion between a carrier and a housing can and will split a housing.
OMC made a tool to do this, if all was clean and the leak was caused by a fishing line encounter we would sometimes us it.
OMC also made a similar tool to change the leaking upper crank seal on the old 33,35 and bigtwin 40's.
it kept you from breaking the crankcase halves.